Are you going to a party in a dress, but there are clouds outside? There is a solution - long knitted leg warmers, rubber boots and a parka! A striped pullover also goes well with a parka, and black, white and gray trousers complete the perfect outfit for changeable weather.

You will need:

  • canvas 150 cm wide: size. 34/36 - 3.20 m, size. 38/40 - 3.25 m, size. 42/44 -
  • 3.30 m
  • interlining G 785 0.20 m wide 0.90 m
  • detachable zipper 65 cm long (for sizes 34/36 and 38/40 the zipper should be shortened)
  • cord length: size. 34/36 - 4.80 m, size. 38/40 - 5.00 m, size. 42/44 - 5.20 m
  • Velcro contact tape 0.25 m wide 2 cm
  • twill tape 0.10 m wide 2 cm
  • 2 punching blocks with a diameter of 8 mm
  • 4 half rings 1.5 cm wide
  • 2 rivets
  • threads for sewing and buttonholes.

Besides:

  • silk paper for transferring patterns from a pattern sheet
  • pencil
  • paper scissors
  • measuring tape
  • tailor's pins
  • tailor's chalk
  • "magic" tailor's chalk
  • glue stick
  • cutting scissors and small craft scissors
  • burda carbon paper and a copy wheel for transferring the pattern
  • sewing machine needle and hand sewing needle.
Back length approx. 82 cm. Recommended fabrics: shape-holding jacket fabrics.

Parka pattern

Place the silk paper on the pattern sheet and pin. Trace the pattern pieces in your size along the corresponding contour lines and don’t forget about the markings and inscriptions. Remove the burlap pockets from part 21: 1 time to the flap stitching line and 1 time to the leaf stitching line. For the leaf (a), edging bias tapes (b, c), cuffs (d) and straps (e, f), paper pattern details are not given. They should be drawn directly on the fabric. Dimensions including allowances are indicated in paragraph 2.

Layout plan

The layout plan shows how to arrange the paper pattern pieces onto the fabric.
21 Shelf 2x
Burlap pocket (large and small) 2x
22 Back 2x
23 Sleeve 2x
24 Front part of the hood 2x
25 Side part of the hood 2x
26 The back of the hood with a fold of 2x
27 Visor 2x
28 Valve 2x
29 Pick up 2x
30 Trimming the bottom of the shelves 2x
31 Facing the bottom of the back 2x

Canvas width 150 cm, sizes 34/36-42/44

Step 1: Cutting




Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with the right sides facing in. Place the details of the paper pattern on the fabric, align the middle of part 26 with the fold, and pin. Around the paper pattern pieces, use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark seam allowances and 1.5 cm wide cuts.

Step 2: Draw out the remaining details




a) 2 pocket facings measuring 22 x 4 cm;
b) facing of the back neckline (cut on the bias) measuring 25 x 4 cm;
c) facing for the upper drawstring 6 cm wide and total length: size. 34/36 - 105 cm, size. 38/40 - 110 cm, size. 42/44 - 114 cm;
d) 2 cuffs length: size. 34/36 - 36 cm, size. 38/40 - 39 cm, size. 42/44 - 41 cm and 4 cm wide, finished 2 cm;
e) 2 straps 9 cm long and
f) 2 straps 7 cm long and 3 cm wide, finished 1.5 cm.

Cut out the details.

Step 3: interlining g 785




Fold the gasket in half lengthwise with the adhesive side facing in. Place paper pattern pieces 27 and 28 and pin. Draw 1.5 cm wide allowances around the paper pattern pieces. Cut out the pieces. Iron the interlining from the wrong side of the corresponding cut parts, setting the iron thermostat to the “silk” mode and holding it in one place for approx. 8 seconds. To reinforce the pocket openings, cut out two strips of interfacing measuring 22 x 4 cm and iron on the wrong side before stitching the leaf and flaps over the pocket markings.

Step 4: Seam lines and markings




Pin the parts duplicated with the gasket right sides together. Pin the paper pattern pieces. The contours of all pattern details (seam and bottom lines), as well as all
Transfer the markings, with the exception of the grain lines, onto the fabric using a copy wheel and burda copy paper (see detailed instructions on the paper packaging). Move the flap stitching lines, pocket stitching lines, fold lines and alignment lines, as well as stitch lines for sewing the top drawstring and Velcro fasteners to the front side of the cut pieces
large running stitches.

Step 5: Valves




Pin together one duplicated and non-gasketed part of each
valve faces. Stitch the edges together, leaving the stitching edges exposed. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, at the corners - diagonally. Turn out the valves. Press the edges and topstitch with buttonhole thread. From a part of the Velcro contact tape with a grippy surface, cut 2 pieces 3 cm long and fix with a glue stick on the inside of each valve, stitch it, laying lines on the outside of the valve according to the markings. Set aside the valves.

Step 6: Stitch pocket facings and flaps




Fold the pocket facing (a) in half lengthwise with the wrong side inward and iron.
At a distance of 1 cm from the stitching line of the facing, draw an alignment line with “magic” tailor’s chalk. Pin the pocket facing, aligning its fold with the alignment line, the open edges of the facing lie on the markings. Sew the facing along the stitching line of the facing from the wrong side. Turn the seam allowances over the topstitch seam and pin. Pin the valve along the valve stitching line, with it directed towards the side cut, the rounded end of the valve lies at the top. Sew it in.

Step 7: Pocket Slits




Cut each shelf between the seams, not reaching approx. 1 cm to the ends of the pocket facing, and to the ends of the seams diagonally close to the last stitches to form small triangles. At the same time, do not damage the pocket facing and burlap! Turn the pocket facing over the slit, flap forward. Press the pocket facing seam allowances forward, the flap stitching seam to the side edge.

Step 8: Sew Small Burlaps




Pin the small burlap of each pocket, right side to right side, to
The seam allowance for stitching the pocket facing is directed towards the side cut. Stitch the seam allowances for the pocket facing onto the pocket burlap from the wrong side close to the seam. Iron the burlap pocket forward and pin. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the slot to the wrong side. Sew the front along the seam of the pocket facing and the ends of the pocket to the edge.

Step 9...then big ones




Using the "magic" tailor's chalk, mark stitching lines on the shelves for the Velcro contact tape with a fleecy surface. Glue the tape (3 cm long), stitch along the edge along the perimeter, grabbing the pocket burlap. Pin the large burlap of each pocket to the seam of the flap on the wrong side, stitch like a small burlap. Pin the burlap, stitch and overcast. Sew each flap along the flap seam close to the seam.

Step 10: Twill Tape, Rivets and Blocks




Pin the twill tape to the left shelf along the alignment lines, tucking the ends. Topstitch the twill tape around the perimeter. Install the rivets, as in the figure, along the middle line at a distance of 2 and 4 cm from the side edge. On the shelves, install the drawstring blocks according to the markings, grabbing a small piece of fabric duplicated with a spacer from the wrong side.

Step 11: middle back seam, cut




Iron the bias seam allowances along the edges of the cut to the wrong side, turn them up to a width of 1 cm and baste, but do not adjust yet. Place the back pieces right sides together, pin and stitch the middle sections from the top to the cut mark. Overcast the seam allowances together, press to one side and topstitch from the front
sides close to the seam with buttonhole thread.

Step 12: Sew the Sleeves




Pin and stitch each sleeve to the front, right side to right side
(check mark 1). Pin and stitch each sleeve to the back (reference mark 2). Sew the seam allowances of the sleeves together and press them onto the front and back. Sew the fronts and back along the seams of the sleeves close to the seam and to a width of 7 mm.

Step 13: Pin the Facing for the Top Drawstring




Sew the facing parts for the upper drawstring together into one long strip. Press seam allowances. Iron the facing sections onto the wrong side to a width of 1.2 cm, the width of the finished facing is 3.5 cm. Place the facing on the parka from the wrong side over the marked stitching lines and pin only the bottom edge of the facing first.

Step 14: Thread the Cord




Cut a length from the cord: size. 34/36 - 3.00 m, size. 38/40 - 3.10 m, size.
42/44 - 3.20 m. Place the cord under the facing, thread the ends through the blocks to the front side of the parka. Pin the remaining free top edge of the facing. Sew the facing by stitching from the front side of the parka along the marked lines, without catching the cord. Tie a knot at the ends of the cord.

Step 15: for sizes 34/36, 38/40 shorten the zipper



Measure the length of the sides of the parka between the marked lines of the neck and bottom. Measure this measurement from the bottom end of the zipper and make a mark. Carefully pry apart the top tooth stoppers, remove them and set them aside on either side of the zipper. Remove the top excess cloves with pliers, finishing the work for approx. 0.5 cm below the set marks. Then place the removed top stops over the zipper straps and press firmly.

Step 16: Stitch the Zipper



Open the zipper. Place each half of the zipper with the outer side on the front side of the shelf and pin it to the edge of the side, with the teeth starting at the marked neck line and lying on the shelves to a width of 5 mm. Tuck the ends of the zipper straps under and pin. On the wrong side of the parka, sew along the sides using a special sewing machine foot for attaching edgings and zippers. Leave the zipper straps on the shelves.

Step 17: Side seams of the hood - backing seams


Place the sides of the hood with the back of the hood, right side to right side, and sew raised seams (check mark 3). Press the seam allowances to the back of the hood. Cut the bottom seam allowance of each relief seam to a width of 5 mm, and fold the top seam allowance to a width of 1 cm and baste. From the right side, stitch the back of the hood along the seams
close to the seams and 7 mm wide, adjusting the allowances.

Step 18: Stitch the front of the hood



Place the two front parts of the hood right sides together and sew the middle seams. Press seam allowances. Pin the outer front part of the hood to the side (control mark 4) and back parts of the hood, aligning the transverse marks of the front part with the relief seams. Sew the outer front of the hood. Press the seam allowances onto the outer front of the hood.

Step 19: Visor




Stitch the parts of the visor right sides together, leaving the stitching edges open. Cut seam allowances close to the stitching. Turn the visor inside out, iron it, stitch it to the edge and to a width of 7 mm. Pin the visor to the front edge of the outer part of the hood
between the cross marks.

Step 20: Stitch the front of the hood



On the inside front of the hood, iron the seam allowances along the seam edges.
Pin the inside front of the hood to the outside right sides, along the bottom edges to the cross marks. Stitch, at the cross marks, lay a line down diagonally to the cut of the allowance. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, at the corners - diagonally.

Step 21: Finish the hood and sew it into the neckline




Turn the inside front of the hood inside out and press. Pin the inner one
the front of the hood over the topstitch seam. Topstitch the front of the hood along the topstitch seam and along the edges to the hem. Insert the hood into the neck between the transverse marks (control mark 5) face to face. Sweep up the hood. Turn over the cleanly turned front edges of the hood and pin.

Step 22: Pin the Hem



Overcast the seam allowances along the inner and top edges of the hems, iron to the wrong side and topstitch. Place the trim on the front edges over the zipper and hood tapes, right side to front side, and pin along the sides and neckline.

Step 23... then stitch the back neckline




Fold the back neck facing (b) in half lengthwise with the wrong side facing in. Iron it. Pin the facing of the back neckline to the cut of the back neckline on top of the hood so that the open sections lie at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the seam allowance, and the ends are above the hems for a length of 1 cm. Cut the ends of the facing accordingly.

Step 24: Sew the hem



On the wrong side of the parka, sew a stitch along the sides (exactly along the line of stitching the zipper) and along the neckline, starting/ending the stitch, not reaching approx. 10 cm to the bottom line of the parka. Do not turn the hem to the wrong side yet.

Step 25: Side Seams




Fold the front and back right sides together. Cut off the side sections (control
mark 6) and continue cutting the lower seams of the sleeves until the corner at control mark 7. Make the seams. Sew seam allowances together and press forward.

Step 26: Pin the Bottom Facing




Sew the side seams of the facings of the bottom of the parka (control mark 8). Press seam allowances. Iron the allowances along the top edge of the facings to the wrong side.
Along the edges of the back opening, remove the running stitches and lay the seam allowances flat again.
Pin the facings along the bottom edge of the parka, right side to right side, removing the pins from the hems and extending the hems under the hems.

Step 27... then stitch



Cut the lower edges of the edges at a distance of 1.5 cm above the marked line
bottom. Pin the remaining free edges of the edges again. Place a stitch along the bottom edge, continuing along the remaining open edges of the hems. Cut seam allowances close to the stitching, as well as allowances along the neckline and along the sides, and at the corners - diagonally.

Step 28: Back Cut




At the edges of the cut of the back facing, turn it down, and press the seam allowances of the facing facings to a length of approx. 5 cm. Turn the allowances along the edges of the cut to the wrong side again. Tuck the allowances along the edges of the cut and the ends of the facings. Back cut edges
Sew at a distance of 7 mm using thread for sewing buttonholes.

Step 29: drawstring at the bottom of the parka




Attach the cord to the facings of the bottom of the parka, stitch the ends of the cord to the seam allowances of the sides 1 cm above the stitching seam of the bottom facing. Turn the hem and back neck facing to the wrong side and iron the edges. Place the cord under the hem facings. For the drawstring, baste the top edges of the bottom facings.

Step 30: Topstitch the parka



Sew the sides and neckline to a width of 7 mm. Sew the bottom to a width of 2.3 cm, as
marked on the pattern, stitching the inner edge of the bottom facings, do not fasten the cord. Sew the upper edges of the hems to the seam allowances for attaching the sleeves to the back. Fold the cord at the back slit into a loop and tie it in a knot.

Step 31: Prepare the Cuffs




Fold each cuff into a ring and sew short sections. Press seam allowances. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, with the wrong side facing in, and iron the fold. Unfold the cuff again. Along the bottom edge of each sleeve from the front side, fold and sweep the folds in the direction of the arrow marks.

Step 32: Stitch the Cuffs



Pin one section of each cuff to the bottom section of the sleeve with the right side
to the front side, matching the cuff seam with the bottom seam of the sleeve. Sew it in. Allowances
Press the seam onto the cuff. Iron the seam allowance on the other side of the cuff to the wrong side. Fold the cuff along the fold and pin the inner half over the stitching seam. On the right side of the parka, stitch the cuff along the seam close to the seam.

Step 33: Sew the tabs cleanly




Fold each strap in half lengthwise, stitch one short side and stitch the longitudinal sections at a distance of 1.5 cm from the fold. Cut seam allowances close to the stitching, at the corners diagonally. Turn the strap inside out, iron it and stitch it to the edge.

Step 34: Sew the Tabs




Thread the cleanly turned end of each short strap into 2 half rings
to a width of 2 cm and stitch. Pin the open ends of each pair of tabs to the cuff at the sleeve folds so that they are directed towards each other, while the tab with half rings is directed towards the seam of the sleeve to the back armhole. Stitch the ends of the straps. Cut seam allowances to a width of 5 mm. Unscrew the straps over the stitching seams and stitch at a distance of 7 mm from the stitching seams.

Step 35: Velcro, Hood Edges



Cut three pieces of 5 cm long from the Velcro contact tape. Glue the parts of the tape with a tenacious surface with a glue stick one after another over the marked lines for attaching the Velcro fastener on the inside of the right edge of the hood, parts of the tape with a fleecy surface - on the outside of the left edge of the hood. Sew both edges of the hood in turn along the marked lines on the reverse side.

Extra tip: The blocks are very easy to install using special pliers.

Photo: Jan Schmiedel (4), U2/Uli Glasemann. Illustrations: Elke Traier-Schäfer,
Material prepared by Anna Soboleva

Let's sew a parka jacket! Detailed pattern construction!

The jacket costs the same as the base of the jacket, only the increase in freedom of fit is 16-20 cm. Today we will look at the construction of a parka jacket. It can be worn with or without a belt. Add additional darts or do without them.

Important: the initial data was taken as measurements of size 50 for women according to the Italian cutting system.

For other sizes, see Standard measurements used in the Italian cutting system for women:

Back detail

(1). We start constructing the back part from the upper left corner, placing t.A. From it we put down a segment equal to 1/24 Size + 0.5 cm, put T.V. From t.A we also put 4.5 cm down and put t.B1. From t.A down we set aside 1/8 Height + 1/24 Size + 2.5 cm (increase for loose fit), put t.C. From t.A down we set aside the DTS measurement, put t.D. and from t.A down we put the measurement of the Jacket Length, in our case 90-95 cm, set t.F.

(2). From t.A to the right we set aside 1/6 of the Size + an increase of (1-2) cm – t.G. We connect points B and G with a smooth line - we get a back neckline.

(3). From t.A to the right we set aside the measurement ½ ШС + increase (1-2) cm, put t.N. From point C to the right we set aside a segment equal to 1/24 OG + 5 cm, put point C1. From t.F to the right we set aside a segment equal to CC1, put t.F1. From t.H we draw a perpendicular downwards until it intersects with line CC1, place t.I. Connect points F1 and C1.

(4). From t.N we lower 4.5 cm down, put t.L. From t.B1 to the right we set aside a segment equal to the measure of ½ ShP, put t.L1. From t.L1 up we put a perpendicular 2 cm, put t.L2. We connect it to t.G.

(5). We extend the line of the shoulder slope by an amount equal to the length of the sleeve (Druk), put t.I1. From t.C1 we put 2 cm down, put t.C2. From t.I1 we put 16 cm down, put t.L. We connect to point C2 with a straight line.

(6). From t.L2 along the line downwards we put 6 cm and put t.L3. We connect it with t.C2 with a smooth line - we get the back armhole line. The contours of the resulting sleeve are red.

Front detail

(7). Points A, C, D, F are constructed in the same way as in the drawing of the back part.

(8). From t.D up, we put aside the measure of the accident, put t.A1. From t.C to the left we set aside a segment equal to ¼ OG + 5 cm, put t.C2. From t.F to the left we lay off a segment equal to CC2, put t.F2. Connect the resulting points. From t.C2 we put 2 cm down and put t.C4.

(9). To the left of t.A1 we set aside a segment equal to 1/6 of the Size + an increase for a loose fit equal to the increase in the drawing of the back detail (1-2 cm), put t.G. From t.A1 downwards we put aside a measurement of 1/6 Size + 2.5 cm, put t.V. Connect the dots to get the front neckline. From t.A1 to the left we put aside a measure of ½ ШС - 1 cm, put t.N. From t.H we draw a perpendicular downwards until it intersects with line CC2, place t.I.

(10). From t.N we lower 6.5 cm down, put t.L. From t.G we set aside a length equal to segment GL1 in the drawing of the back part, put t.L1, and points L and L1 are on the same horizontal line. Connect to T.G. From t. L1 upward we set aside 2 cm, put t. L2 and copy the sleeve pattern from the drawing of the back part to the drawing of the front part.

Button placket for jacket fastening

(11). From point B to the right and left we set aside 3 cm, put points, draw perpendiculars down from them and extend the line F2F to the right by 3 cm. We get a placket for the jacket fastener with buttons.

(12). To the left of t.G we put 5 cm and from t.F we put 10 cm to the left, connect the resulting points.

(13). We unfold the sleeve and from point L3 we draw a perpendicular equal to 1 cm upward and draw a new line for the hem of the sleeve. The sleeve can be made with cuffs, without them, etc. what is enough imagination?

You will need

  • - pattern;
  • - scissors;
  • - sewing machine;
  • - threads and needles;
  • - jacket fabric;
  • - insulation;
  • - lining;
  • - strip of fur;
  • - dense edging;
  • - elastic cord with tips;
  • - buttons and tongs (or press) for riveting them;
  • - three detachable zippers.

Instructions

Choose a simple and practical pattern. You can use a ready-made pattern from a sewing manual as a basis, or use old clothes and open them along the inside seam. Carefully calculate the size, not forgetting about the loose fit - after all, you will be wearing the product over a thick sweater.

It is recommended to make the following cut details: - large: left and right shelves; back; a pair of shelf yokes; back yoke; left and right sleeves; hood (middle, sides and facing); - small (they can be cut out from leftover material): patch pockets; double stand-up collar; valves on the hood and sleeves; double zipper strip; a pair of facings on the sleeves and hems. Clothes from these parts can be made for children and adults of any gender; it is enough to adjust the length, color and, if necessary, make a drawstring at the waist.

Choose suitable materials for sewing a winter jacket. You will need facing and lining material. A piece of thick polyester is good as an outer fabric; for the lining (including the lower collar), you can take fleece fabric. Depending on the desired thickness of the codend, select the number of layers of sealant. It is good to decorate the hood with a trim made from a strip of natural or faux fur.

Cut out the details of the cut - the “face” of the jacket, lining and warm filling. Next, you need to apply one layer of insulation to each cut part and sew it with a regular horizontal stitch with long stitches. Attach other warm layers (from two to four) with a large mesh to the lining.

Sew the pockets to the front of the jacket. To do this, sew leaves onto the back of the burlap. For volume, a thin layer of insulation can be placed inside the drowning leaf. Sew both parts of the patch pocket to the front of the product; You can also put a thick piping along the seam - this will look more professional. Use it to treat the lower edge of the sleeves.

Complete the main connecting seams of the product and proceed to small but important details. To ensure that the jacket provides good protection from the wind, sew flaps on the hood and sleeves. Rivet metal buttons onto them. If you do not have a special punch press for rivets and eyelets, buy special pliers for installing such fasteners in the sewing accessories department.

Work carefully: make a hole in the jacket fabric with a smaller diameter than the button; Press the parts of the fittings accurately and try not to damage the front part. To do this, before squeezing the button, you can put a piece of thin rubber (for example, a plumbing gasket).

Sew a detachable zipper onto

I’ll say right away that I’m not a professional at all. I started sewing only 2 years ago while on maternity leave. And now I can’t imagine my life without it)) I especially love sewing outerwear. Mainly by studying in various master classes, which abound on the World Wide Web. I will try to describe all the stages as simply and clearly as possible.

Well, let's go.

It all starts with cutting. We place the parts on the fabric, chop and cut them out. This is a membrane top fabric, French velboa fur lining, Alpolux 200 insulation, for temperatures up to -35 degrees. It is imperative to adhere to the grain line so that the product does not skew on the person.

All details are cut out. This is my handprint))

I marked the stitch lines on the lining so that the insulation and lining would not warp when worn, and it looks beautiful. I pinned all the lines together with insulation so that nothing would escape when sewing on the machine.

Once I had everything quilted, I trimmed off all the excess insulation around the edges and began sewing the pieces together and sewing on the facing. I sewed on a branded tag))

Now I start sewing pockets and sewing on the drawstring, insert a hat elastic there to adjust the waist, thread the elastic into the drawstring

The hood is completely ready. I sewed the lining with the top fabric, and threaded an elastic band to tighten the hood. I made double cuffs into the sleeves.

I sew the lining to the outer fabric. I sew on the wind flap, sew in the zipper, punch holes and insert buttons using a hand press.

Difficulty level: average

Technical drawing of the model:

Description of appearance

Women's parka (jacket), interseasonal, casual, with a lined hood, with a central side zipper closure. Shelves with patch volume pockets with flaps fastened with a button and a windproof flap fastened with 6 buttons. Single-seam set-in sleeve. The waistline is emphasized by an adjustable band.

Structural additions to this model: to chest girth -14 cm up to size 52, 16 cm starting from size 54; to waist circumference 38-39 cm; to the hip circumference 12-14 cm. The length of the product is 17 cm above the knee line.

Materials: basic - raincoat (jacket) fabric: lining - lining material, including quilted with insulation.

Attention! If you decide to use insulated lining material, keep in mind that the design addition to this model suggests the possibility of using thin insulation with a surface density of no more than 100 g/sq.m.

When ordering a pattern you receive 3 pdf files:

  • A file with instructions for printing a pattern, containing a control square and the measurements by which the pattern was constructed;
  • File with pattern in A4 format, for printing on a regular printer
  • File with a pattern on one large sheet - for printing on a plotter

* PRINTING ON A4 FORMAT PRINTER:

When printing patterns in A4 format, open Adobe Reader and check the "Actual size" checkbox (or uncheck "Fit to page size") in the print settings.

Note the test square (or grid) on the pattern sheet. Its size is exactly 10 by 10 cm. It is needed in order to understand whether the printing scale is set correctly on your printer. Before printing the entire pattern, print out a sheet with a red square and measure it. 10cm sides? This means you can print the remaining pattern sheets. If the sides are more or less than 10 cm, you need to adjust the print scale of your printer. Otherwise, the pattern will not print correctly.

After printing all the pattern pages, glue them together in the order shown: the letters (A/B/C+) indicate the column, and the numbers (01/02/03+) indicate the row. The first (top left) pattern sheet will have the number A01.

*PRINTING ON A PLOTTER:

When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in Adobe Reader (or Foxit Reader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the Poster print mode under Page Sizing and Handling. Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes for Cutting Marks, Shortcuts, and Split Large Pages Only.

The following designations are used on the pattern:

Parts Specification

Main material

  1. Shelf – 2 parts
  2. Back – 1 piece (with fold)
  3. Collar – 2 parts
  4. Sleeve – 2 parts
  5. Hood – 2 parts
  6. Hood insert – 1 piece
  7. Hood facing (main part) – 2 parts
  8. Back neck facing – 1 piece (with fold)
  9. Pocket – 2 parts
  10. Pocket flap – 4 parts
  11. Fastener valve – 2 parts
  12. Zipper valance – 1 piece
  13. Pocket side – 2 parts
  14. Hood trim (extension) – 1 piece

Lining material

  • Shelf – 2 parts
  • Back – 1 piece (with fold). Cut according to basic materials minus back neck facing
  • Sleeve – 2 parts
  • Hood – 2 parts. Cut according to the main material minus the hood facing.
  • Hood insert – 1 piece. Cut according to the main materials minus the hood trim extension

Padding material

  • Valve - 2 parts
  • Pocket facing – 2 parts
  • Padding material for the allowance for processing the lower cut of the product – 1 piece
  • Padding material for the allowance for processing the cut of the bottom of the sleeves – 2 parts
  • Reinforcement of the left shelf for buttons (TPM strip 5 cm wide, 50 cm long)

Attention! If you have enough basic material, then you can cut out 4 “Hood” parts and 2 “Hood Insert” parts, but do not cut out the hood facings. This will greatly simplify processing.

Attention! When cutting parts, it is necessary to add seam allowances: 1 cm for all cuts, except for the bottom cut of the front and back and the cut of the bottom of the sleeves. Along the bottom cut of the front and back - 4 cm, along the bottom of the sleeves - 3 cm.

Exemplary consumption of the base material is 1.5 - 3.2 meters, depending on the size and height of the product, as well as the width of the material.

Attention! The pictures show options for the arrangement of parts on a canvas of different widths “In Bending” and different sizes. Please note that the parts highlighted in color are cut out one at a time.

Attention! If you decide to cut the hood lining from the main material, the consumption will increase by 30 cm.

Advice!Before you buy the material, if you don’t already have it, make several options for laying out the cut pieces on the floor for “different material widths”, and you will understand what width will be optimal for your size and height. By the way, it is at this moment that you can determine the length of the zipper.



To make a jacket you will also need:

  • lining material. The approximate consumption of lining material will vary from 1.1 – 2.8 meters. Material consumption depends on your decision to cut out the hood from the main material or the lining, as well as on the size and height;
  • hot-melt adhesive cushioning material – 50 cm;
  • zipper braid 60 (70) cm long, depending on your height;
  • braid (cord) – 2 m;
  • cord ends;
  • buttons – 8 pieces;
  • sewing threads.

Technological sequence of processing


27. Sew the valance of the zipper braid along the stitching seam of the zipper braid, placing the valance on the front side of the shelf and aligning the cuts (Fig. 2, line 2).

28. Fasten the zipper. Sew the zipper to the right shelf along the edge of the side.

29. Stitch the neck facing to the hem along the shoulder edges. Press seam allowances.

30. Sew the hem and facing of the back neckline to the parka along the edge of the side and the bottom edge of the hood lining (Fig. 2, line 3).

31. Sew the sleeve parts along the lower edges.

32. Stitch the sleeves into the armholes.

33. Determine the length of the sleeves and iron the finishing allowances to the wrong side.

34. Determine the length of the parka and sweep the hem allowance to the wrong side.

35. Determine the location of the waist line fastener. Cut out a strip of any material with a width of 5 cm and a length equal to the width of the finished product minus 10 cm. Mark its location, put eyelets for the cord or overcast the loops and sew a strip of material under the cord, placing the cord under it along the marked line.

36. Hem the bottom edge of the parka on the front section with hems.

37. Prepare the lining of the parka (connect the front and back along the side and shoulder sections, stitch the lining sleeves along the lower sections, sew the lining sleeves into the lining armhole). Attention! Leave a hole 15–20 cm long in the bottom seam of the left sleeve.

38. Sew the parka lining along the inner edges of the hems, the lower edge of the back neck facing and the lower edge of the garment. Adjust the seam allowances for the hemming and facing.

39 Sew the sleeve lining to the sleeves along the bottom edge (Fig. 2, line 4)

40. Turn the product right side out through the hole in the left sleeve.

41. Attach the lining to the parka along the side and shoulder seams.

42. Stitch the hole in the bottom seam of the sleeve.

Option 1. The simplest option is a quilted lining with insulation. In this case, the details of the lining of the front, back, sleeves and hood completely repeat the details of the top MINUS the hem (on the front) and MINUS the facing of the back neckline on the back. The quilted lining with insulation is assembled in the same way as a regular (non-insulated) lining - with a “robe” and connected to the top.

Option 2. The insulation is cut out separately. In this case, the insulation parts also repeat the lining parts. Next, one of the most common methods of processing insulation and connecting it to the product is used. The lining parts are assembled with a “robe” and separately the insulation parts are assembled in the same way, with a “robe”. Then, along all sections of the insulation, a strip of material 2 cm wide is sewn with an overlay seam (along the edge of the side, bottom, neck) so that the strip extends 1 cm beyond the sections (see Fig. 4). This strip is used as an intermediate element between the upper parts and the insulation, i.e. Having prepared the insulation, it must be connected to the parts of the top along all sections, folding the top and the insulation of the back side with the back side and combining the sections of the intermediate element (strips) and the sections of the hem, the facing of the back neckline and the sections of the bottom of the sleeves. This way you will get a top connected to the insulation. Next, you connect the lining to the product to which the insulation is already connected.