Shortened rows (or unknitted loops of a row) are used when knitting fabrics with an extended silhouette, when it is necessary to make various darts on parts, etc. The place of their insertion and dimensions are determined by the pattern of the model being executed. Short rows can be made on both the front and back sides of the piece.

First option

Shortened rows are knitted simultaneously on both sides of the fabric through a row.

After preliminary calculations and dividing the loops into groups, start knitting along the front side of the part.

1st row: From the beginning, knit to the calculated group of loops and leave it unknitted on the left knitting needle. Turn the fabric to the wrong side.

2nd row: Pull the working thread back between the two knitting needles. Bring the right knitting needle under the working thread into the 1st loop from the bottom and remove it from the knitting needle. The yarn over should be placed in front of the slipped loop (that is, the same as with a reverse yarn over). Hold the slipped double crochet stitch with the index finger of your right hand, while simultaneously placing the working thread on the left needle and on the index finger of your left hand. Knit the purl row until the next group of loops, which must be left undone. Turn the canvas right side out.

3rd row: working thread behind the knitting needle and on the index finger of the left hand. Bring the end of the right knitting needle under the working thread and into the 1st loop from below and remove it from the knitting needle. The yarn over should be placed in front of the loop and on the index finger of the left hand. In this way you should knit the calculated number of rows. At the same time, it is necessary to remember that you need to remove the loop and place the working thread as in the 2nd row, and in the knit stitches as in the 3rd.

After the last shortened row on the wrong side, turn the fabric to the right side and remove the 1st loop with a double crochet, and knit the rest to the end. The yarn overs obtained before each group of unknitted loops are knitted together with the removed loops along the front side with the front loop behind the upper segments. Pull up the working thread.

In the purl rows, knit the removed loop of the shortened row together with the purl yarn over in the first way. Pull up the working thread.

Second option

In this case, the shortened rows are knitted separately - first along the front side, then along the wrong side of the fabric through the row. Having determined the number of loops for shortening the rows on both sides of the fabric, divide the loops into groups in which there can be any number of loops, and mark the place where the shortened row will begin.

1st row: From the beginning of the front row, knit the calculated number of loops for shortening. Turn the fabric to the wrong side.

2nd row: pass the working thread between the ends of the knitting needles onto the index finger of the left hand and yarn over. Knit a purl row to the end. Turn the canvas right side out.

3rd row: at the end of the front row, leave another group of loops unknitted. During subsequent knitting, in each front row, unknit as many loops as calculated for each group, and so on until all the calculated loops are unknitted on the left knitting needle. Then, from the beginning to the end of the front row, knit all the loops of the row. Knit the removed loops in the previous rows together with the yarn over, as described above.

The shortened rows on the wrong side are knitted in the same way as on the front side, that is, the loop with the crochet is removed after each shortening.

Often in knitted patterns there is a description when it is necessary for one side of the knitted product to be longer than the other. Then they resort to knitting shortened rows, that is, rows not knitted to the end. To make the row shortened, the work is turned before the end of the row, and turning, knit again the same loops that you just knitted. As a result, there are many more rows on one side of the canvas than on the other. This technique is also called partial or rotary knitting. At the proposed master class you will be able to study this technique in detail.

Partial knitting method or shortened rows

Figure 1 shows a pattern for knitting a dart, when shortened rows are knitted on one side; such rows are made for darts on women's blouses, on the back of children's trousers, when knitting berets and flared skirts. Figure 2 shows a pattern of shortened rows on both sides of knitting. Such rows are knitted to obtain convex parts of the product, for example, to give a characteristic shape to the heels on the toes. Here, in each shortened row, one less loop is knitted and then, in order to “turn the heel,” one more loop is knitted in each row until the original net loops are cast on.

When, when turning the work, all the loops are knitted on top of each other, holes are formed between the loops. They can be left as part of the pattern if the pattern is openwork, or hidden by using the knitting method described below with entwined loops.

How to make short rows in the front row and hide the holes:

1.Knit facial threads to the turning point. Without knitting, slip the next stitch onto the right needle, as in knitting, and bring the thread forward to the right side of the work between the knitting needles (Fig. 3).

2. Move the removed loop back to the left knitting needle, and move the thread back and keep it at work, as in knitting. Turn the work as if you had knitted to the end of the row. The removed loop will be entwined and there will be a long constriction around it (Fig. 4). Then knit with purl stitches.

When you knit the knit stitches above the turn and the constriction stitch on the next row, you must knit the knit stitch together with the constriction stitch. This will be done in more detail as follows: knit the fabric up to the entwined loop, then pass the right knitting needle under the constriction along with the loop (Fig. 5) and knit them together.

How to make short rows on a purl row and hide the holes:

1. Knit the purl loops to the point of turning without knitting, then slip the next loop onto the right needle, as in purl knitting, and move the thread forward to the front side of the work between the knitting needles (Fig. 6).

2. Transfer the removed loop back to the left knitting needle, and move the thread back and hold it behind the work, as in knitting, then turn the work, as if you had knitted to the end of the row. The removed loop will be entwined and there will be a long constriction around it (Fig. 7). Next knit with purl stitches.

When you purl the stitches over the turn and overstitch on the next row, you insert the right needle behind the back wall of the loop formed by the yarn and move it onto the left needle. Next we purl the loop together with the constriction.

Such shortened rows can also be used for “horizontal arrows” (Fig. 9), shoulder or other bevels (Fig. 10) and when connecting parts of different densities (Fig. 11).

"Horizontal Arrows"(Fig. 9)

This is a convenient opportunity to use the ability to knit short rows to give the details of clothing a more fitted or simply original shape. To do this, you need to knit from the edge of the fabric, i.e. from the side seam to the tip of the “arrow”. Then turn and knit to the third or fourth loop (depending on the angle) from the edge of the fabric. Knit in this way and in each front row, each time knitting 3-4 loops further from the side seam, until you get an “arrow” of the required depth. Next, knit along all the loops.

Shoulder bevels (Fig. 10)

Also formed using shortened rows. If you close all the loops several times, without knitting to one of the edges, the edge of the fabric on the shoulder cut will turn out to be stepped. To prevent this from happening, you can turn the work in front of the loops that need to be closed for the shoulder bevel, and repeat this procedure in each row in which the loops are closed. As a result, all the loops will form a bevel and end up on the knitting needle; now they can be closed in one step.

Connect parts(Fig.11)

Knitting patterns with rows of different densities will help to shorten the rows. For example. you can easily connect a garter stitch sown with the front of a cardigan knitted in stockinette stitch. You will need to knit six rows of garter stitch for every four rows of stockinette stitch. Having finished the row at the end of the garter knitting, you need to turn and knit with garter knitting, then turn again and knit the garter stitches with knit stitches, turn again and knit them in the reverse row as well. After this, continue knitting on all loops of the product.

Master class on knitting in short rows:

In order to master the techniques of under-tying ( knitting in short rows), cast on 30 stitches on the knitting needles and knit several rows in stockinette stitch (stocking stitch). Starting from the front side, knit 25 loops for the first time, leaving 5 loops on the left knitting needle (not knitted enough). Then the 5th loop, counting from left to right, is removed onto the right knitting needle, leaving the working thread in front of this loop, passing the working thread between the ends of the right and left knitting needles from front to back and returning the 5th loop to the left knitting needle, wrapping it around it. Turn the knitting over to the wrong side and knit the row to the end.


Wrapping a knit stitch when knitting in short and long rows

In subsequent rows along the front side, the 10th, 15th, 20th and 25th loops are wrapped in the same way with the working thread, counting from left to right. When all the loops located on the left knitting needle are unknitted, you need to knit a common front row. When knitting loops that have been entwined, the end of the right knitting needle is directed from the bottom up under the entwining thread and into the loop, grab the working thread and knit the main loop together with the entwining thread with a knit stitch. After knitting the common front row, the wrapping threads remain on the wrong side and are invisible from the front side.


Knitting the main loop together with the wrapping thread in the front loop

When knitting shortened rows on the wrong side, the purl loops are wrapped around the working thread in the same way. as well as facial ones. When knitting a common purl row, the thread that wraps around the loops is grabbed with the end of the right knitting needle from the front side, put on the left knitting needle and knitted together with the main purl loop.


Knitting the main loop together with the wrapping thread with a purl loop

Knitting in extended rows is explained in the following example. For the sample, cast on 25 stitches on knitting needles and knit several rows in stockinette stitch. Starting from the front side, the first time a smaller number of loops are knitted, for example 4 loops, and the 5th is wrapped in the same way as was described in the case of knitting in short rows. Turn the knitting to the wrong side and knit the loops purlwise (there will be 4 loops). Then 9 loops are knitted along the front side and wrapped around the 10th, while the 5th loop, which was twisted with the working thread in the previous row, is knitted together with the wrapping thread. After wrapping the 10th loop, turn the knitting to the wrong side and knit the row to the end. All subsequent front rows are knitted in the same way, increasing each by 5 loops. Knitting in extended rows on the wrong side is done in the same way as on the front side, lifting the wrapping thread in the same way as when knitting in short rows.

Hello.

Today we are knitting short rows with knitting needles.

A few words about what they are needed for.

Sometimes in a knitted fabric it is necessary to knit rows of different lengths. For example, to make darts:

or a sprout when knitting raglan (this is how I finished the top part):

With the help of shortened rows you can beautifully and neatly design:

- sloping shoulder line

- bulges (when knitting heels)

- wedges in berets

- an even semicircle at the skirt

- semicircular neckline, etc.

Usually in these cases I, like many others, simply close off several loops in each next row. And the edge turns out to be stepped and very uneven. Short rows allow you to do the work more accurately, without holes.

Below we will look at 3 ways to perform shortened rows.

How to knit short rows with knitting needles

The essence of these rows is that each row is not knitted to the end, the work turns around and continues in the opposite direction. This type of knitting is also called rotary or partial.

For clarity, I use yarn of different colors. Each of the following examples shows how to knit short rows, first on the front side and then on the wrong side.

Method 1 - Short rows with double crochets

We knit a row until the place where we need to turn the knitting.

We turn the work to the wrong side and make a yarn over. We knit the row as usual until the turning point.

In the next row, on the front side, yarn over and knit the next loop.

As you can see, there is no hole here.

Now let's see how to knit a short row with a double crochet on the other (wrong) side. After purl. row, turn the knitting and yarn over, knit a row.

Then, having knitted the purl row back, we reach the yarn over, slip it onto the right needle and turn over the next purl loop.

Then we throw this loop and yarn over onto the left knitting needle and knit a purl loop, bringing the right knitting needle from behind and below, grab the working thread and pull it through 2 loops.

It turns out that the yarn over (pink loop) is at the back. And everything looks very neat.

And if we had not turned the purl loop over, but knitted it with a crochet the way it lay,

it would have turned out like this (the drawing on the front side is broken):

Method 2 - Short rows with a twisted loop

At the point of turning on the right side, slip the next knit stitch onto the right needle,

we pull the working thread forward behind it and put the removed loop on the left knitting needle again.

We turn the knitting, again throw the working thread towards us and knit the reverse row as usual.

On the front side (after knitting the next row) the turning point looks like this:

Using the right knitting needle, pick up the yarn over and knit stitch from the front from below

and knit both knit stitches.

From the wrong side we knit a shortened row with an entwined loop like this: we slip off the next loop, we start the working thread from ourselves,

turn the knitting, pull the thread through the work.

We do not knit it right away, but first turn it over on the knitting needle (before that we remove the pink loop).

We knit both loops, bringing the knitting needle from below to the back walls.

The pink loop remains on the wrong side of the knitting.

And from the front side the knitting looks like this:

Method 3 - Short rows with a tight loop

Another way to knit short rows without holes. Try it, maybe you will like it more than others.

We tie the front row to the turning point.

Turn the knitting and remove the knitted loop, purl-wise.

Then we bring the thread up and away from us and pull it so that we see 2 half-loops (blue).

Then, when you knit the purl. and persons rows and you get to this stretched loop in the front row, it will look like this:

Knit it knit by inserting a knitting needle, as shown in the photo,

Short crochet rows (partial crochet) with decreasing stitches used for knitting heels of socks, slippers and footwear. Using shortened rows, children's caps and booties are knitted. Here we will look at the principle of knitting short rows using the example of knitting heels with single crochets.

Crochet heel

Let's assume that the central part of the heel, which needs to be knitted in short rows, is 8 loops (stitches). First we knit the side loops, then 7 loops of the central part, and skip the 8th loop. In the next loop (this is the first loop of the other side part) we knit a connecting post.

Connecting post connected

We turn the work and knit a single crochet into the first loop. Be careful: the first loop may be tight and hardly noticeable. It's easy to miss. There is no need to make an air lifting loop.

Single crochet in the first stitch of the row

Next we knit 7 loops of the central part. Then we also skip the 8th loop and knit a connecting stitch into the next loop. * Turn the work, knit a single crochet into the first loop of the row. Again we knit 7 loops of the central part.

Knitted 7 loops of the central part

We knit the 8th loop, picking up the loop of the side part, using a connecting post. *

The connecting post is knitted into a loop on the side

So we continue to knit from * to *, picking up the loops of the side parts, until we put them all into work.

Crochet shortened rows without decreasing stitches are used less frequently. Knit similarly. But there is no need to skip the 8th loop in the first two shortened rows. Next, in each row, knit one more loop than in the previous one.

c) Crochet takes a big place in knitting products with motifs - separate fragments of various shapes.

Motives you can make various products - from blankets to clothing items; They can be used to completely knit the entire product, and you can create inserts of various shapes and sizes.
The method of connecting motifs is determined by your desire, experience and the contour of the motif itself, as well as the purpose of the product being made. If the motifs cannot be connected by the edges, behind the “picot” or scallops, if there are large gaps between them, then it is necessary to insert smaller motifs to fill the voids, because the canvas at the edges of loose motifs will sag.
It is not advisable to combine more than 2-3 types of motifs in one product (with the exception of Irish lace), because the product may look ungraceful and overloaded.
The arrangement (layout) of motives should have a logic, and even better, a plot. This especially applies to fabrics of typesetting lace, in which fragments are located in a certain pattern, connected by brids, the shape of which is mutually agreed upon.
When making large products, it is wiser to connect the motifs with horizontal ribbons along the length (volume) during the work process, connecting them to each other in height. Can be connected with a needle or a series of connecting posts. This will allow you to painlessly make adjustments at the first mistake or when redoing it after a while. By tying the first 2-3 ribbons and attaching them to the pattern, you can make the necessary changes to the dimensions - calculate the required number of motifs and their parts. Be sure to moisten and let the knitted and assembled ribbons dry - they may shrink, which will need to be taken into account. Do not forget that the motifs in the product stretch a little under their weight, like any canvas, which narrows your product.

Any whole motif, when knitted from the center, can be knitted two ways : in a circle in one direction or in rotating rows.
As a rule, almost all motifs are knitted from the center in a circle in one direction in the direction from right to left with lifting loops, and we get only the front side with this design. When performing a motif in circular rows, it is necessary to determine in advance the location of the rise to the next row. If the location of the lift is incorrectly located, the problem of moving to the next row arises - you have to move to another place using connecting (blind) loops.
When starting to work with motifs, carefully consider how they will be laid out on the pattern. If your pattern requires using incomplete motives - in armholes, when designing sleeve caps, when designing necklines - this must be taken into account immediately.
Almost always half-motifs, their quarters, etc. are performed in rotating rows “back and forth” with a mandatory set of lifting loops, which gives us both the front and back sides of the motif. In this case, whole motifs and partial motifs will have different fabric textures, which will be noticeable on the motifs laid out in a prominent place - around the neckline. If the pattern dictates many motifs, partially connected, then it is better to knit all the motifs in the product in the round with a change in the direction of knitting after joining the row - with knitting rows back and forth, along the front and back sides.
No matter how beautiful the edges of the motifs are, tying with several rows of low posts along the perimeter of the product required. This will fix both the cut and the edges of the product. If, in addition to tying the edge of the product with low columns, you add tying of each of the motifs in a “crawfish step”, the canvas will acquire volume.
Motifs are laid out on the canvas linear, checkerboard, prefabricated medallions, in random order .
No gaps Triangular, square, as well as six, eight, and more coal motifs can be laid out on the canvas. In this case, they are sewn with a needle or crocheted.
Stitching method - connecting the edges of ready-made motifs into one fabric with a needle :
- back stitch - durable seam that does not stretch when tensioned. This seam is a connecting seam and is used to hold parts together. From the front side, the seam looks like it was machine-made and is deservedly called “stitching”. The seam is made from right to left, for which fasten the thread from the wrong side and pull the thread to the front side. The stitches of the seam are made by moving the needle backwards: the needle and thread always enter the fabric back from the puncture - the beginning of the stitch, and come out in front. Make two stitches with a forward stitch and pull the thread to the right side. Now pierce the needle back to the end of the first stitch and, going along the wrong side at a distance twice the distance of the top stitch, bring the needle to the front side and pull out the thread. Make the next puncture with the needle again in the opposite direction to the place where the last stitch ends. On the wrong side, skip double the top stitch distance again. The top stitches should be the same in length - 0.5-0.7 cm. On the wrong side, a seam is formed, which is called a stalk-shaped one.
Place the motifs right sides together (if necessary, secure them with sewing needles to avoid shifting), ensuring that the knitting pattern or edge stitches match. Using a needle with a large eye and selected thread, connect the parts.

- "weaving stitch" - This is an elastic, flat seam. Fold the motifs wrong side up so that their edges touch each other. Sew the pieces using a large eye needle and thread similar in composition and color to the yarn used to knit the product. Insert the needle into the middle of the edge loops as shown in the picture. Do not pull the seam, it should be as elastic as the product itself.

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- hidden seam, “flat” over the edge, “overlapping”, “polo” seam - fold the motifs with the wrong side up side by side, edge to edge, and secure. A needle is used to make a seam in which the distant, outer half-loops of adjacent motifs are captured. Having sewn a pair of motifs, they move on to the second pair of fixed motifs; the transition of the thread is visible in the figure. Sew the strips of motifs horizontally, then connect them vertically. With this connection, the near half-loops of the edges are located around the seam that connected the far half-loops. The same seam is performed by folding the motifs with the front side inward, the wrong side out, using one or both half-loops:

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