Kolya Rish

hair stylist at Chop Chop barbershop

Win-win option- these are stretched sweaters combined with classic shoes and loose-fitting trousers. Those who rush to pull on the best that they can find at home are mistaken.

As experience shows, to make an onion, which everyone wants to photograph, you need to be completely unprepared for the fact that you will be caught in the camera. This usually happens when you're at your most ridiculous.

The most relaxed silhouette and the presence of stubble contributes to this. It is worth looking organically for yourself and preferably not combing your hair for three days.


On Kolya: trousers Petar Petrov, long sleeve Rick Owens, jumper Acne, shoes Dr. Martens

In April, a branch of the Moscow men's hairdressing salon Chop-Chop will appear in St. Petersburg.The first Chop-Chop salon was opened last fall by the creators of the Faux Pas tattoo studio - illustrator Evgeny Murushkin and editor of the GQ website Alexey Ermilov in Moscow. The project turned out to be so popular that in April, art director of the Moscow salon Nikolai Rish will open a branch in St. Petersburg.

The fundamental difference between Chop-Chop from an ordinary hairdressing salon in that it is, first of all, a men's club where people can simply spend time: meet friends, drink whiskey or coffee.

Our masters won’t have to explain for long, what kind of haircut do you want? You can name a movie character or point to a portrait in a magazine. The masters are only men, which is the classic concept of a men's salon. St. Petersburg masters will work in the salon, and Moscow specialists will come to special sessions.

Looking ahead, I’ll tell you that we have provided discount cards for clients in St. Petersburg "Our man." This will not be a subscription, as in Moscow, but an individual card for regular customers.

Paying tribute to St. Petersburg, cultural capital, we plan to create a separate living room where all clients can spend time and read foreign men's publications.

After the launch of the St. Petersburg branch, we plan to open hairdresser in Kyiv.

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- How does “Bird” work?

- We are two people, me and my partner (Ksenia Tumanova - Note ed.). We are responsible for the life of the hairdressing salon: staff, training, concept, filming - and the entire visual component. Ksenia is also involved in interior design, planning, and PR.

- You’ve been around for a long time, what has changed during this time?

- This spring we celebrated four years. And there is a feeling that during this time we have matured. In 2013, when we opened our first hairdressing salon on Bolshaya Bronnaya, we were very interested in Scandinavian design. We wanted to do something light, conventionally fashionable and youthful. Over time, we have come to a more conscious, beautiful classic - in every sense. Simply because they themselves grew up.

-Has the audience changed?

- Yes, and quite strongly. If they originally came to us fashionable girls who found us on Instagram or on the same “Afisha”, then after some time their mothers and grandmothers began to come. Now a huge number of adults come to us, who at first were afraid: “Oh, everything here is so fashionable, youthful.” They understand that when they come to us, they receive good quality and everything is not so scary, but, on the contrary, cool. It happens that an older woman comes and they make her into an older woman. And we try to avoid this.

“And people are happy to say: “I get my hair cut at Ptichka,” and not just “I went to the hairdresser in the area.”

- Because we are trying to create a community. We organize parties with the Strelka bar - in spring, summer, autumn and so on - we use the hashtags #birdiegirls, #birdiefamily... This is our little world.

A lot of people come to parties. It’s fun for them to just celebrate summer with their hairdresser, for example, or our birthday. It's always wildly fun. It’s generally cool when you are friends with your client: you communicate with him, interact, spend time. It seems to me that this is how the new service should be - super friendly.

- What do they ask for most often?

- Of course, there are some fashion stories, but, if we abstract from them, everyone always needs the following: so that the length is not removed, but that everything is new and that there is no need to fit. This is a standard story. I don’t want to do anything, I want to do it beautifully, I don’t want to cut anything off, but everything needs to change. Sometimes you don't even have to ask.

In general, beauty trends are not as fast as, say, what happens with clothes. If only because hair does not grow from a super short haircut to a super long one in three months. The main trend is naturalness. Such trends can last from five to ten years. This is the antithesis of the fashion of the 2000s, when women took great care of themselves: if you leave the hairdresser, it should be visible. Now the point is that after the salon everything should be beautiful, but it’s not clear that you were there.

The most fashionable haircut this summer is called shaggy bob (from the English shaggy - “shaggy.” - Note ed.). This is hair medium length, which are cut in layers and styled in such a messy texture. She may have bangs, or she may not. Nowadays it is asked for most often. Such hot trends come, everyone does it for themselves, but it lasts for a maximum of a year. Like bangs on both sides: when we first opened, it was super fashionable, but now everyone is tired of it.

- And in terms of coloring?

- Glare, the effect of burnt hair, shatush - something that does not need constant touch-up of the roots. This is some natural color, but due to glare it is more varied. Hair acquires texture, looks cool when styled, and so on. Bright shades We also often use them: young people love them very much and you can tint your hair for a short time using the same ombre. The dye is unstable and washes off over time. Our employees get their makeup done, and we do it for our clients, everyone is happy: for two weeks you go with pink hair, and then it washes off - and everything is fine.

- Why did you choose City Beats colors when painting?

I was already blue a year ago. I thought - why not mix yellow and green? I am a colorist and I know very well how color works and what it consists of. I can break down any color into depth, intensity, and so on. Therefore, I don’t have any associations with yellow: I simply don’t think in such planes as sensations.


- IN free time you're a DJ. How did this happen?

- I have a close friend, she was the art director of the Solyanka club (which is now closed). One fine day she calls me and says: “Listen, we need a new party and we need a media person for it.” And I had a period in my life when I worked on television - in a makeover show on TNT. This is when someone comes and you remake him. In general, she says: “We want you to do this, but there is one condition: we need you to play it yourself.” It so happened historically that I am connected with music: I have a lot of friends who are musicians and DJs. And I agreed. We held one party, it went great, we did a second one - it also went great... In general, we held parties for a year - right up until Solyanka closed. And then they started calling me to other places - to the same “Simachev”. At some point I realized that I liked it, I started collecting vinyl, then my friends gave me turntables for my birthday, and last year What I do is travel around the world, collect records and play.

- Don’t you miss Solyanka?

- I miss you very much. A week ago they celebrated its tenth anniversary, and I played both nights: the first was in Swan Lake, and the second in Simachev. It was more than a club - it was a whole community. Now everyone has settled down a bit, everyone has their own things to do. It’s cool to come to “Simachev” and meet all your friends there, but “Solyanka” was the place where we spent our youth.

"My Fair Lady"

Photo: Varvara Lozenko

I had different hairstyles: short haircuts, I dyed my hair blonde, brunette, mahogany when it was fashionable. Once I got hair extensions. But in the end I realized that the current image corresponds to my type. It took me a long time to choose it.

There is a master whom I trust, but every time we come to some decision together in any case. When he cuts my hair, I never interfere with his work; after all, correcting and telling me how to do it is wrong. I wouldn’t trust a completely new hairdresser with my hair - it should be a person I know.

  • Address M.Patriarshiy lane, 3

Rita Bardiyan

Birdie Hair Salon


Photo: Varvara Lozenko

I have a classic bob haircut - it has always been like this, the length just changed. Sometimes longer, sometimes shorter, but most often something in between. She's just comfortable, that's all. My hairstyle could suit anyone. It seems to me that half of our women wear one and feel good. This is the kind of length that can be pulled into a ponytail, in some kind of small bun, and it also looks good when loose.

I never do evening hairstyles for myself; I think that the natural position of the hair is the best option for any event.

I can trust any of the guys in my salon, because I am sure that everything will be fine with my hair. Moreover, it’s difficult to ruin my hairstyle in any case.

But basically I have by nature good hair, and I don’t take care of them in any way. I just washed, combed my hair and went. I don't use any special things.

  • Address B. Bronnaya, 17

Olga Filimonova

RightWayStyle Beauty Center


Photo: Varvara Lozenko

I chose my style myself, through trial and error. It has already taken hold and has not changed recently. I have a certain master, this is my friend. She is also a hairdresser, and we have been cooperating for about 15 years. She cuts my hair, I cut hers, and we don’t cheat on each other. If suddenly I have to get my hair cut by another hairdresser, I suffer.

About four years ago I had long hair, which I didn’t wear loose, but put them up in a high braided hairstyle. This is an absolutely Russian style, matryoshka style. I like it: I have a lot of Posad scarves, from which I make dresses myself. There was a time when I tried some creative haircuts and even coloring, but that was a long time ago when I was just learning. I soon realized that I didn't need it.

My clients have long known that the style I like is classic. And our salon is designed for a conservative audience.

  • Address B. Palashevsky lane, 6

Nikolay Rish

Birdie Hair Salon


Photo: Varvara Lozenko

My hairstyle is like this: if you have time to get a haircut, great, if you don’t have time, I go with what I have. Classic men's haircut. I think about hair this way: it should be comfortable. And sometimes it's beautiful. I get my hair cut once every three months, maybe once every six months. I have a certain number of students whom I trust, and I go to them. And sometimes it happens that one of my masters is free. But the most important thing is not to say “cut your hair this way and that,” because then the hairdresser begins to get confused and lost and does something completely unnatural for him. So I just sit down and say: well, do it, hmm, beautifully.

I have absolutely healthy hair. Because they are short, they do not require much care. In general, hair requires care if it is affected by some kind of chemical. And the entire industry rests on the fact that first cosmetic companies spoil hair with dye, and then restore it with the help of care products. It is enough to get a haircut once every couple of months and use a shampoo that suits your scalp type. Since we do not live in the best environment, almost all Moscow residents have dry hair. That's why I recommend everyone to use moisturizing conditioners.

  • Address B. Bronnaya, 17

Masha Lishchuk

Birdie Hair Salon


Photo: Varvara Lozenko

I have been in the profession for 7 years, and my mother is a hairdresser. As a child, she constantly experimented on me. This allowed me to become a flexible person in this regard and change easily. Now I have short hair, and the main reason for this choice is that I dye it all the time. Now task number one is to grow my hair and see myself from a different perspective. Therefore, I am gradually transforming my short haircut to make it easier to live with, but most importantly, I am moving towards femininity. In fact, short haircuts are very diverse; you can just change the line a little, and you will get a completely different image, a completely different character.

Being in this business, you understand that here you can grab the first colleague you come across and he will do everything you ask if you have the same views. I cut my own hair occasionally, only if I can’t really leave the house with what I’ve grown. When you want to complete a look, but there is some kind of “raincoat mushroom” on your head, then you need to correct something. But most often my boyfriend cuts my hair, he is also a hairdresser, and this is very convenient: we can transform each other without leaving home.

It is important not to overdo it with heat styling. Even natural hair can turn into nothing if you use flat irons every day. Nowadays I prefer pomade, which is ideal in the summer: it creates a “wet hair” effect, a compact shape that doesn’t fall apart, and you can live with it perfectly.

  • Address B. Bronnaya, 17

Pavel Klimov

Hairdresser Annie Hall


Photo: Varvara Lozenko

I'm bald. I guess I’m destroying the existing stereotypes that a hairdresser should have a super-mega-hairstyle. It's just much more convenient for me. I take care of my hair myself and trust it only to myself.

It happened spontaneously. I got my hair cut at a hairdresser and didn't like it. Well, at the hairdresser, it was an acquaintance, and maybe he was not in the right mood, it happens - we are all human. At that time, I lived with a hairdresser girl, I came home in the evening and asked: cut my hair shorter, fix what is now on my head. She helped me and cut my hair shorter. And then I went into the shower and decided to shave completely. And when I left the bathroom and looked in the mirror, I realized: this is what I need.

Then the girl and I cut our hair bald.

For a while, to maintain this hairstyle, I went to barbershops, they shaved me, and it was very cool. The main thing is not to cut it. I won’t cut myself, I’m already used to it, and even if I do, well, okay, it’s me. And so, for safety reasons, you just go to trusted people - that’s all.

My friends were shocked at first, but now they can’t imagine me with hair at all. I found my own style, my own zest in this.

Before this hairstyle, I really tried everything - from long to short hair, let’s say, all the colors of the rainbow were present on me. I experimented with my look as much as I could. But in the end I stopped, and this hairstyle, which I discovered three years ago, is just super.

I do not recommend shaving my head to my clients. We have a women's salon. This happens to some girls who are about thirty - they want to shave and change everything. In such cases, if I see that it really suits a person and he has a beautiful skull shape, I can cut his hair bald - let him walk around and be happy.

Once I trusted my head even to an intern. But, honestly, in the last three years I've had my hair cut three times. That's really cool, I really liked it. But I am relaxed about any hairstyle. Although this is not just a question of technique, perhaps I just didn’t know what I wanted. But it so happened that only three times I got a drop-dead cool haircut, and I walked around just happy.

Naturally, we all get our hair cut at Chop-Chop. Although many people don’t like to cut their colleagues’ hair, because we are picky and start saying “what are you doing?” And all the same, we, the masters, we all have our own hands, and we all work a little differently, although in general we maintain the chop-chop style.

Once upon a time, I shaved my head bald and then walked like that for 5 years because it was very comfortable. You see, girls have many options on how they can stand out. Makeup, earrings, nails - there are a million things that help girls change. And with us - well, what can we do? Hairstyle, beard, mustache, tattoo. All. This is the entire arsenal of a man. Of course, the main thing with which a man should stand out is his actions. He must look neat, but his main tool is his actions.

I take care of my hair simply: I use a hair dryer and paste. When I don’t have time, I put on a cap - I love them very much. Sometimes I do my hair - either voluminous, or put my hair back. They always look a little disheveled; I don't like the slicked-down style. I prefer such carelessness in both clothes and hairstyle a la Johnny Depp.

  • Address M.Kozikhinsky lane, 6

At the beginning of autumn, an inexpensive men's hairdressing salon, Chop-Chop, opened in Moscow. FURFUR spoke with the creators of the barber shop, photographed Chop-Chop's first customers and attended the opening party for the new location.





Alexey Ermilov, one of the creators of the Chop-Chop salon and editor of the GQ.ru website

We have haircuts different people- architects, presenters of children's matinees and presenters of federal TV channels, representatives of the emerging class of managers who want to look like Justin Timberlake in the movie “Sex for Friendship”, the guys we meet in “Strelka” at night and in “Starlight” at breakfast, fans CSKA, preschoolers whom mothers bring by the hand, our friends, employees of the glossy press - for the most part, extremely pleasant people.

Finally, all those people come to us who seem to exist, but as if they are not there. Some people buy Gieves & Hawkes suits at the UK Style store, others are waiting for the second season of the series How to Make It in America, others download American GQ to their iPad, and before bed read Mariengof’s “Cynics.” If we exist, it means there are others like us. On the streets and in the subway they are invisible, but in Chop-Chop we see: we really are not the only ones.

At some point, the three of us got tired: Danila had to pay 2,500 rubles for a haircut every three weeks, I had to cut my own hair in the bathroom, Wife, a shy person, had to explain to the hairdresser what he wanted every time. We decided to open a place that would allow us to avoid all these inconveniences.





Danila Antonovsky, one of the creators of the Chop-Chop salon, former GQ editor and creator of The Locals website

We needed to create this salon, first of all, for ourselves. That is, any writer, if he is worth anything, writes a book that he would like to read himself. But we opened a hairdressing salon, which we personally lacked. One where you would get your hair cut quickly and fashionably. This, in fact, is not so simple - because in Moscow salons it is customary to spend an hour and a half on a haircut, and a seemingly banal request “make me a half-box” can seriously puzzle hairdressers. Although, damn it, this is the most classic men's haircut imaginable.

The first days of our work showed that the need for everything we talked about is higher, much greater than we thought. We are really booked three days in advance. At the same time, very nice people come: well-mannered, attractive, well dressed. We just thought - who will our visitors be, will we enjoy communicating with them while they wait in line, will we want to offer them beer? It turned out that it’s nice, you’ll want it.

We have three hairdressers - Timur and Sasha, who have gone through all the main Moscow salons, and Kolya Rish. Kolya - he unique person. A European champion in hairdressing, he cuts ten people’s hair a day and there has never been a single one who was not only dissatisfied, but simply indifferent to his work. Everyone leaves him inspired. We assembled the team using the word-to-mouth method. According to friends, in short.

FIRST CLIENTS


Stylistically, we look up to such masters as Sarah Bolen from AKA Berlin, East River Tattoo studio, as well as still my idol - Maxim Buchi. He makes a certain mixture of old school, graphics and dot-work, which we also try to focus on. Dot-work is when all the gradients consist of small dots, that is, the emphasis is on clear geometry in combination with ordinary leaves, roses, ribbons, and so on.

Besides me, Nikita Dulevich also does tattoos at Chop-Chop - he is one of the former graffiti artists, nice guy from Brest, where we specially sent him from, loves hip-hop and basketball. By the way, it’s important to say that although we don’t cut girls’ hair in our studio, we are happy to give them tattoos.

Among other Moscow tattoo artists, I like the guys from Love Life Tattoo the most - they are really cool and they draw very well. But I still don't see any tattoo artists with their own style to look up to. We have a huge number of illustrators with their own style, but for some reason it doesn’t work out that way with tattoos.

Nikolay Rish, hairdresser and one of the creators of the Chop-Chop salon

In hairstyles, we adhere to the stylistic aesthetics of America of the fifties and sixties - this is the period of real heyday of male beauty. To date, this is probably the most interesting period of development in both clothing and hairstyles. Nothing interesting happened in the seventies, eighties and nineties, and what did happen had nothing to do with masculinity. The era of the fifties is the most interesting in this regard.

Almost everyone wore popular hairstyles back then. famous men of that time: Kennedy, Elvis, James Dean, Frank Sinatra and so on. Now these haircuts can be seen on the heroes of the Mad Men series.

People come to us who are aesthetically close to the line we offer, and this is what they primarily go for. Now, if there is one master working, then we cut ten people a day, if there are two, then more - fifteen, sometimes twenty. We have three masters in total, and we cope well with our role. I think over time there should be more people.

This is how we met the guys - they saw the haircuts I did and found me themselves. When we met, we realized that we had similar views on haircuts and how men should look, and decided to work together.