Types of machine seams
Batueva T.M. - teacher
first qualifying
- this is the junction of two or more parts
machine stitching.
Seam width
– this is the distance from the stitch to the cut of the parts.
Machine seams
Requirements for making machine seams:
- All internal machine stitches are performed with threads in
fabric color.
2. After completing the machine work, the threads of all temporary
stitches (basting, basting, basting, etc.)
Machine seams
Connecting seams:
- pressed seam
- pressed seam
- open cut overlay seam
- closed bevel patch seam
Edge seams:
- closed hem seam
Connecting seams:
stitched seam
Application: for connecting the main parts of the product,
as well as small parts among themselves.
ironed (thick fabrics)
ironing (thin fabrics)
Connecting seams:
pressed seam
1. Fold the pieces right
side inward so that
the seam lines matched.
2. Sweep away details by estimate
stitches.
Question to pin:
What does the term " sweep away »?
Handmade terminology
Sweep -
temporary stitches.
temporary stitches.
temporary stitches.
TEST YOURSELF
ANSWER: A
Connecting seams:
pressed seam
3. Stitch the parts 0.1cm from
running stitches.
4. Remove running stitches.
5. Place seam allowances in
different sides and iron.
Question to pin:
What does the term " iron »?
Terminology of WTO works
Iron -
A). Reduce seam or edge thickness.
B). Place seam allowances or folds into different
sides and secure them in this position.
IN). Fold the seam allowances to one side and secure
them in this position.
TEST YOURSELF
ANSWER: B
Connecting seams:
pressed seam
Sequence of seam:
1. Fold the front pieces
side inward so that
the seam lines matched.
2. Baste the parts with basting sheets
stitches.
Connecting seams:
pressed seam
3. Stitch details 0.1cm from
running stitches.
4. Remove running stitches.
5. Fold the seam allowances to
one side and iron .
Question to pin:
What does the term " grind »?
Machine terminology
Stitch -
line.
machine stitching.
TEST YOURSELF
ANSWER: B
Connecting seams:
overlay seam
Application: for sewing patch pockets,
connections of gasket materials.
with closed cut
open cut
Connecting seams:
overlay seam with closed
c cut
Sequence of seam:
- Fold the edge of the adjustable
details on the wrong side
2. Apply and baste top
front side detail
main part. Distance from
folded edge to the stitching -
according to the model.
Question to pin:
What does the term " baste »?
Handmade terminology
Baste -
A). Connect parts approximately equal in size
temporary stitches.
B). Connect small parts with larger ones
temporary stitches.
IN). Connect two parts superimposed on one another.
temporary stitches.
TEST YOURSELF
ANSWER: B
Connecting seams:
overlay seam with closed
cut
3. Stitch the top piece
to the main one without touching
running stitches.
Distance from folded
edges to stitching - according to the model.
Remove running line.
4. Iron seam.
Question to pin:
What does the term " iron »?
Terminology of WTO works
Iron -
A). Fold seam allowances or folds into one
side and secure them in this position with.
B). Place seam allowances or folds in different directions
and secure them in this position with help.
IN). Reduce seam or edge thickness.
TEST YOURSELF
ANSWER: B
Connecting seams:
overlay seam with open
c cut
Sequence of seam:
1. Overlay customizable
detail on the bottom without bending
cut, both parts facing
sides up.
Mark the stitching line.
2. Stitch top piece
to the bottom according to the intended
Question to pin:
What does the term " topstitch » ?
Machine terminology
Stitch -
A). Join the two pieces using machine stitching
then turning them right side out.
B). Connect parts superimposed on one another
machine stitching.
IN). Connect parts approximately equal in size
machine stitching.
TEST YOURSELF
ANSWER: B
Edge seams:
closed hem seam
cut
Application: for processing the edges of parts
(bottom of product, bottom of sleeves).
Edge seams:
closed hem seam
cut
Sequence of seam:
1. Fold the cut of the part onto
0.3-0.7 cm on the wrong side.
2. Fold the cut a second time
Sweep folded edge
0.2-0.3 cm from the first hem.
Question to pin:
What does the term " sweep » ?
Handmade terminology
Sweep -
A). Connect small parts with larger ones
temporary stitches.
B). Secure the folded edge of the part with temporary
stitches.
IN). Connect two parts superimposed on one another.
temporary stitches.
TEST YOURSELF
ANSWER: B
Edge seams:
closed hem seam
c cut
Sequence of seam:
1. Stitch up folded edge
parts 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold,
without touching the running stitches.
2. Remove running stitches.
3. Iron the seam.
Question to pin:
What does the term " stitch up »?
Machine terminology
Stitch -
A). Join the two pieces using machine stitching
then turning them right side out.
B). Connect small parts to larger machine parts
line.
IN). Secure the folded edge of the piece with machine stitching.
TEST YOURSELF
ANSWER: B
Practical work:
making machine seams
Materials, tools, equipment:
1. Parts made of cotton fabric;
2. Hand needle;
3. Ruler;
5. Scissors;
6. Sewing machine;
7. Technological map.
Literature:
- Technology: Textbook for 5th grade students
institutions (option for girls). -3rd ed., revised. / Ed.
V.D. Simonenko. – M.: Ventana-Graf.2010.
- Study guide. The ABCs of Sewing. Manufacturing technology
machine seams. Kozhina O.A.
MAOU secondary school No. 71, Krasnodar
Housekeeping technology grade 5
CLASSIFICATION MACHINE SEAMS
MACHINE SEAMS
EDGE
FINISHING
CONNECTING
FOLDS
unilateral
counter
bow
HEAM
open cut
STACHNOY
OVERHEAD
HEAM
with closed cut
STITCH SEAM
with edging
SETTING
TURNED
RELIEF SEAMS
INSTRUMENT
Stitch seam
- We fold the parts with the right sides inward, align the cuts and baste or pin them across the chalk line;
- Sew the edges with a straight stitch. Be sure to backtack at the beginning and end of the stitching. The width of the fabric seam allowance is from 0.5 to 1.5-2 cm;
- We sew the sections. If the seam is pressed, then overcast both sections at the same time. If the seam is pressed, then we sew each section separately;
- We remove the basting thread and perform a wet-heat treatment of the stitched seam, either pressed or open-ironed, or the seam is left on the “edge”
Hem seam with open cut
- We pre-sew the cut of the part, bend it on the wrong side by 0.5–0.7 cm and sweep it;
- We machine stitch at a certain distance from the edge, depending on the model;
- If the model should not show the machine stitching (hemming) from the front side, then we hem the seam allowance using hand blind stitches;
- Iron the seam.
Closed hem seam
- The section of the part to be processed is folded on the wrong side by 0.7 - 1.0 cm, and we sweep it;
- Iron the folded edge without catching the tacking stitch;
- Then we place the folded edge on the part, according to the amount of allowance provided for by the model, and machine stitch it or sew it by hand with blind stitches;
- Remove the basting threads;
- Iron it.
Raised seams
- Topstitch seams performed on the front or back side of the part. Basically, this type of seam is used to sew folds on products. The distance from the fold line to the line is 0.1-0.2 cm.
- Top stitch with cord used for finishing light women's clothing and a coat. To make a seam you need a special foot with a groove in the sole.
- A strip of the main fabric is placed on the inside of the part and the first machine stitch is made from the front side along the pre-marked line;
- Place a cord between the layers of fabric and lay a second line.
Stitch seam with edging
- We cut out a strip of fabric to make the edging;
- Fold in half with the wrong side inward and iron;
- On one of the main parts of the product, place a strip folded in half on the front side and sew stitching line 1;
- Place another piece of main fabric on top, face down, and stitch. We place line 2 exactly in the stitching seam of the strip;
- Iron the seam sections from the wrong side.
Bow pleat
- We place the part with the wrong side down, placing the fold allowance on both sides of the stitching line. The middle line must be located along the stitching seam;
- Along the upper cut we fasten the folded fold across it with a machine stitch;
- Iron the folds;
- On the front side you can lay finishing stitch, including securing folds along the width.
PRACTICAL TASK
Samples will be presented to your attention different types finishing machine seams, as well as their graphic representation, symbol and a technical description of their implementation.
Based on the samples, determine the names of the seams and draw a graphic representation of them in your workbook.
Slide 2
BASIC CONCEPTS
A SEAM is the place where two or more parts are joined with a stitch. A STITCH is a thread connection of parts, a series of repeating stitches. A STITCH is the interweaving of threads between two punctures of the fabric with a needle. SEAM WIDTH is the distance from the sections of the parts to the stitch.
Slide 3
Seam width Line Stitch Fabric MACHINE SEWING DIAGRAM
Slide 4
REQUIREMENTS FOR MACHINE SEAMS
machine stitches must be even; the width of the seam should be even (the same); stitches should be uniform in frequency; the tightness of the stitches should be the same, the interlacing of the threads should be between layers of material; the lines must be continuous, without breaks; there should be no waviness of the material along the seam line; the seam must be strong (in this case, the threads you use play an important role); Place seam allowances to the right of the needle, and place the main parts to the left.
Slide 5
BE CAREFUL...
There is a hint hidden in the text that will help you do your practical work perfectly.
Slide 6
CLASSIFICATION OF SEAM
MACHINE SEAMS CONNECTING EDGE FINISHING STITCHED OVER STITCHED STITCHED HEAM with an open cut STITCHED HEMIED with a closed cut FOLDS one-sided counter bow STITCHED SEAMS with edging RELIEF SEAMS
Slide 7
REPETITION
Your attention will be presented to different types of machine seams and methods of their implementation, as well as their graphic representation and symbol. Try to remember where and when you have already used some of them?
Slide 8
CONNECTING SEAMS
STICKING SUPPLIES 1 2
Slide 9
Stitch seam
Sew the edges with a straight stitch. Be sure to backtack at the beginning and end of the stitching. The width of the fabric seam allowance is from 0.5 to 1.5-2 cm; We sew the sections. If the seam is pressed, then overcast both sections at the same time. If the seam is pressed, then we sew each section separately; We fold the parts with the right sides inward, align the cuts and baste or pin them across the chalk line; We remove the basting thread and perform a wet-heat treatment of the stitched seam, either pressed or open-ironed, or the seam is left on the “edge”
Slide 10
EDGE JOINTS
IN THE HEAM EDGING STITCHED 1 2 3
Slide 11
Hem seam with open cut
We pre-sew the cut of the part, bend it on the wrong side by 0.5–0.7 cm and sweep it; We machine stitch at a certain distance from the edge, depending on the model; If the model should not show the machine stitching (hemming) from the front side, then we hem the seam allowance using hand blind stitches; Iron the seam.
Slide 12
Closed hem seam
The section of the part to be processed is folded on the wrong side by 0.7 - 1.0 cm, and we sweep it; Iron the folded edge without catching the tacking stitch; Then we place the folded edge on the part, according to the amount of allowance provided for by the model, and machine stitch it or sew it by hand with blind stitches; Remove the basting threads; Iron it.
Slide 13
Edge stitch
We bend the finished bias tape lengthwise and iron it; We put the edge of the workpiece between the sides of the binding and baste it; We adjust the binding with a machine stitch at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge. We bend the edges of the seam and lay another line along the front side at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge; Iron the edging.
Slide 14
FINISHING SEAMS
Stitched seam with edging RELIEF Overlay with open cut 3 1 2
Slide 15
Open cut overlay stitch
An overlay seam with an open cut is made by overlapping the cuts with 1.5-2 cm overlapping each other. We lay the line parallel to the cuts of the parts.
Slide 16
Raised seams
Topstitch seams are made along the front or back side of the part. Basically, this type of seam is used to sew folds on products. The distance from the fold line to the stitch is 0.1-0.2 cm. A stitch with cord is used for finishing light women's clothing and coats. To make a seam you need a special foot with a groove in the sole. A strip of the main fabric is placed on the inside of the part and the first machine stitch is made from the front side along the previously marked line; Place a cord between the layers of fabric and lay a second line.
Slide 17
Stitched seam with edging
We cut out a strip of fabric to make the edging; Fold in half with the wrong side inward and iron; On one of the main parts of the product, place a strip folded in half on the front side and sew stitching line 1; Place another piece of main fabric on top, face down, and stitch. We place line 2 exactly in the stitching seam of the strip; Iron the seam sections from the wrong side.
Slide 18
Overlay seam with closed cut
We bend the cut of one of the parts towards the wrong side by 1-1.5 cm and iron it; Place the ironed edge of the part on another part and baste; We machine stitch, retreating from the ironed edge by 0.1-1 cm, that is, depending on the model. The seam allowance cut of part (a) is covered by both parts.
Slide 19
Simple finishing double-sided folds
We place the part with the wrong side down, placing the fold allowance on both sides of the stitching line. The middle line must be located along the stitching seam; Along the upper cut we fasten the folded fold across it with a machine stitch; Iron the folds; You can lay a finishing stitch along the front side, including one that secures the folds along the width.
Slide 20
PRACTICAL WORK
CONNECTING SEAMS FINISHING SEAMS EDGE SEAMS Stitched with edging Double double-sided folds Overlay with a closed cut Sealed raised overlay with an open cut Stitched pressed Hem edging with an open cut TASK. In your notebook, draw a table consisting of three columns, in each of them write the stitches that relate to this column. I WISH YOU GOOD LUCK!
Slide 21
TEST YOURSELF
If everything is exactly the same as on this slide, feel free to give yourself a “5”. If you made a mistake, look at the entire presentation again... CONNECTING FINISHING EDGINGS stitched with edging double double-sided folds of the invoice with a closed cut sewn in relief invoice with an open cut stitched open-iron edging hem with open cut
View all slides
- MACHINE SEAMS
- machine stitches must be even;
- the width of the seam should be even (the same);
- stitches should be uniform in frequency;
- the tightness of the stitches should be the same, the interlacing of the threads should be between layers of material;
- the lines must be continuous, without breaks;
- there should be no waviness of the material along the seam line;
- the seam must be strong (in this case, the threads you use play an important role);
- Place seam allowances to the right of the needle, and place the main parts to the left.
- There is a hint hidden in the text that will help you complete
- practical work “excellent”.
- MACHINE SEAMS
- CONNECTING
- EDGE
- FINISHING
- STACHNOY
- OVERHEAD
- SETTING
- INSTRUMENT
- HEAM
- open cut
- TURNED
- HEAM
- with closed cut
- FOLDS
- unilateral
- counter
- bow
- STITCH SEAM
- with edging
- RELIEF SEAMS
- You will be presented with
- different types of machine seams and methods
- their implementation, as well as their graphic
- image and symbol.
- Try to remember where and when you already
- Have you used some of them?
- We pre-sew the cut of the part, bend it on the wrong side by 0.5–0.7 cm and sweep it;
- We machine stitch at a certain distance from the edge, depending on the model;
- If the model should not show the machine stitching (hemming) from the front side, then we hem the seam allowance using hand blind stitches;
- Iron the seam.
- We fold the parts with the right sides inward, align the cuts and baste or pin them across the chalk line;
- Sew the edges with a straight stitch. Be sure to backtack at the beginning and end of the stitching. The width of the fabric seam allowance is from 0.5 to 1.5-2 cm;
- We sew the sections. If the seam is pressed, then overcast both sections at the same time. If the seam is pressed, then we sew each section separately;
- We remove the basting thread and perform a wet-heat treatment of the stitched seam, either pressed or open-ironed, or the seam is left on the “edge”
- We bend the finished bias tape lengthwise and iron it;
- We put the edge of the workpiece between the sides of the binding and baste it;
- We adjust the binding with a machine stitch at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge.
- We bend the edges of the seam and lay another line along the front side
- at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge;
- Iron the edging.
- The section of the part being processed is folded on the wrong side by 0.7 - 1.0 cm, and we sweep it;
- Iron the folded edge without catching the tacking stitch;
- Then we place the folded edge on the part, according to the amount of allowance provided for by the model, and machine stitch it or sew it by hand with blind stitches;
- Remove the basting threads;
- Iron it.
- An overlay seam with an open cut is made by overlapping the cuts with 1.5-2 cm overlapping each other. We lay the line parallel to the cuts of the parts.
- Topstitch seams are made along the front or back side of the part. Basically, this type of seam is used to sew folds on products. The distance from the fold line to the line is 0.1-0.2 cm.
- The stitching stitch with cord is used for finishing light women's clothing and coats. To make a seam you need a special foot with a groove in the sole.
- A strip of the main fabric is placed on the inside of the part and the first machine stitch is made from the front side along the pre-marked line;
- Place a cord between the layers of fabric and lay a second line.
- We fold the two parts with their right sides inward, extend the cut of the lower part (b) to the value of the finished seam width of 0.6-0.7 cm and add another 0.2 cm. We bend the lower part (b) around the cut of the upper part (a) and we lay a stitching line at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the cut;
- We lay out the parts in different directions, bend the seam to the side, close the smaller cut, and lay a second line at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the folded edge.
- We cut out a strip of fabric to make the edging;
- Fold in half with the wrong side inward and iron;
- On one of the main parts of the product, place a strip folded in half on the front side and sew stitching line 1;
- Place another piece of main fabric on top, face down, and stitch. We place line 2 exactly in the stitching seam of the strip;
- Iron the seam sections from the wrong side.
- We bend the cut of one of the parts towards the wrong side by 1-1.5 cm and iron it;
- Place the ironed edge of the part on another part and baste;
- We machine stitch, departing from the ironed edge by 0.1-1 cm, that is, depending on the model. The seam allowance cut of part (a) is covered by both parts.
- We place the part with the wrong side down, placing the fold allowance on both sides of the stitching line. The middle line must be located along the stitching seam;
- Along the upper cut we fasten the folded fold across it with a machine stitch;
- Iron the folds;
- You can lay a finishing stitch along the front side, including one that secures the folds along the width.
- We fold the parts with the wrong side inward and level the cuts, grind (line 1) along the front side at a distance of 0.3 - 0.4 cm from the edge;
- Iron the cuts;
- We bend the parts with the right sides inward and lay a second line, retreating from the edge by 0.5-0.7 cm. The fabric seam allowances are closed with a line (2);
- Iron the seam.
- CONNECTING SEAMS
- FINISHING SEAMS
- EDGE JOINTS
- ground with edging
- double
- double-sided folds
- overhead
- with closed cut
- sewing
- raised
- overhead
- open cut
- old
- flat-iron
- edging
- in the hem
- open cut
- EXERCISE.
- Draw in your notebook
- table consisting of
- three columns, in
- write each of them down
- seams that belong
- to this column
- I WISH YOU GOOD LUCK!
- If everything is exactly the same as on this slide, feel free to give yourself a “5”
- If you make a mistake, watch the entire presentation again.
- CONNECTING
- FINISHING
- EDGE
- ground with edging
- double
- double-sided folds
- overhead
- with closed cut
- sewing
- raised
- overhead
- open cut
- old
- flat-iron
- edging
- in the hem
- open cut