Gucci is one of the most famous fashion houses in the whole world. This brand belongs to the luxury segment and specializes in the production of suitcases, bags, clothing and perfumes. It is part of the French holding Kering. Gucci managed to win fans around the world and declare itself as the most expensive, prestigious and popular brand. The only fashion house that was able to surpass it in terms of sales is. Even in 2017, Gucci continues to hold its leadership position and delights its loyal customers with new trends.
Gucci fashion house
Story
The history of the brand began back in 1904. It was then that the young and ambitious Guccio Gucci opened his first store-workshop, where he sold items for equestrian sports. It is worth noting that Guccio was born in 1881 and was involved in the world of arts and crafts from childhood. His father was engaged in the manufacture and sale of hats, and of course, he was able to teach all the intricacies of cutting and sewing to his son.
However, 23-year-old Guccio's first store was not successful. Due to bad trade and a quarrel with his father, the guy decided to go to conquer the capital of Britain. He got a job at the legendary The Savoy hotel. Over the course of 10 years of work, the man managed to try himself as a bellhop, elevator operator and porter. However, during this time Guccio acquired something more.
He noticed that wealthy guests always arrived with high-quality, expensive suitcases, thanks to which the person’s social status and financial condition were immediately clear. Working in London young man managed to save 30 thousand liras, which he decided to invest in a new business.
Gucci returned to his homeland in Italy and opened a workshop in which he made things for jockeys and suitcases. This time his strategy worked. He only gave preference better skin, from which he made clothes of the highest quality.
Over time, the legendary riders wanted to perform only in Gucci uniforms, thanks to which the brand became incredibly popular.
By this time, the founder had already gotten married and become the father of 6 children. The four sons began to actively help Guccio in his workshop. Aldo's eldest son helped the brand become more recognizable. It was he who suggested that his father use a logo that looks like two letters G, denoting the initials of the founder. In 1937, the modest workshop turned into a full-fledged factory. From that moment on, the family began making handbags and gloves.
In 1938, Gucci's debut store was opened in the heart of Rome, proudly located on Via Condotti. By the 1940s, company stores were located throughout the country. Son Aldo played a role in the prosperity of the brand. He not only expanded the range with new scarves and ties, but also introduced Gucci to the intercontinental market. Thanks to him, the first branded boutique opened in America in 1953, which was located on Fifth Avenue in New York.
In addition, Aldo contributed to the appearance of a handbag with a bamboo handle, which was loved by all ladies with exquisite taste. It was worn by both queens and famous actresses. The handbag has been improved and is still being sold in 2017.
Branded items were also often used in films. For example, in the legendary film “Roman Holiday,” Audrey Hepburn’s neck is adorned with a thin Gucci scarf, and signature moccasins are visible on her feet.
Also incredibly famous was the handbag with a long strap, which in the future was called “Jackie-O!” It was this model that became popular thanks to the first lady of the United States, Jacqueline Kennedy, in whose honor it received its name. The family that rules Monaco was also delighted with this brand. During the prince's wedding, all guests received an exclusive scarf from Gucci as a gift, and the brand itself became a supplier to the royal court.
Gucci family split
In 1953, the founder of the fashion house passed away, after which his sons Aldo and Rodolfo took over the management. Aldo continued to expand the business, so he moved to America. In addition, he managed to open boutiques in the capitals of England and France, and in the late 60s - in China, Japan and South Korea.
In the 1970s, numerous disagreements and quarrels between members of the Gucci family nearly bankrupted the company. Aldo took control of the family business, while his brother Rodolphe had only 20% of the shares. During the same period, the first Gucci perfume was born. This division was led by Aldo's son Paolo.
To support the new line, Aldo entered into contracts with small firms who began to produce various accessories from Gucci. Other small items included pens, lighters, cosmetic bags and much more. They were incredibly cheap and did not correspond to the luxury status of the company.
Such a wrong strategic decision led to the almost ruin of the fashion house. Ordinary people wanted to have at least a Gucci pen. Wealthy customers were outraged that the brand was no longer considered a luxury item, so they began switching en masse to other brands.
Splits in the family continued. This time, Paolo sued to win back part of the company, for which Aldo fired him from all positions. In retaliation, the son reported $7 million in unpaid taxes to authorities, for which his father was sentenced to 1 year in prison. Later, Paolo sold his share for 41 million and was no longer associated with the family business.
After Rodolfo passed away in 1983, his son Maurizio began running the fashion house. During his years at the helm, the company suffered even more failures. Because of the right to produce counterfeit goods with the Gucci logo, many Asian companies have made a fortune. Of course, the huge number of counterfeits had a negative impact on regular customers. In the late 80s, wearing Gucci items was considered bad manners.
In 1993, Maurizio sold all his shares to the investment company Investcorp. From that moment on, no one from the Gucci family ran the business.
Resurrection of the brand
In the mid-90s, Domenico de Soll became the head of the company. It was he who managed to revive the former greatness of the Gucci fashion house. There was no longer any need to know how to distinguish a counterfeit from an original because De Soll had revoked all licenses to use the brand name. One of the strategically correct decisions was to hire legendary designer Tom Ford as creative director. It was Tom who was able to pay attention to the stronger sex by creating men's collections for Gucci.
It was this union that helped restore the former name of Gucci. Tom Ford's incredible collections plus de Soll's clever marketing policy did their job. Already in the mid-90s, Gucci was one of the most expensive and best-selling brands in the world.
In 2004, PPR Corporation became the new owner of the fashion house. Due to numerous disagreements over the conduct of business, De Soll and Ford ceased to be part of Gucci. Tom's final show was the most successful in the history of the fashion house. When creating it, he returned to the origins of this brand - equestrian paraphernalia.
Models and designers
Ford's place was taken by his student Alessandra Facchinetti, and Frida Giannini became the new accessory designer. In 2006, Facchinetti left the company due to disagreements with management, and Giannini took her place. She spent 9 years of her life creating women's and men's collections for Gucci. However, this year, 2017, she will no longer please fans of this brand with new creations. In 2015, without waiting for her show, Frida quit.
Gucci is considered one of the best-selling brands in the world, so walk the show or become a face new collection Almost all modern supermodels dream. For example, she presented new collections three times, and was also the face of the legendary Flora by Gucci perfume.
In addition, the Russian supermodel was the face of this brand from 2005 to 2011. In addition to fashion models, which also included , the brand was represented by such celebrities as Jared Leto, Jennifer Lopez, Drew Barrymore, James Franco and Chris Evans.
As of 2017, the creative director of the brand is Alessandro Michele. He changed the approach to fashion shows and was the first to decide to combine women's and men's collection. For the first time, viewers were able to see such changes during the show of the autumn-winter collection 2016-2017 in Milan.
The largest stores
One of the most large stores is located in Zhongshan North Road, Taipei, Taiwan. The boutique is a multi-storey building, which is completely filled with products of the legendary fashion house.
Unfortunately, not all boutiques are so majestic, but each of them exudes luxury and exquisite taste. We can recommend you several not so large, but definitely worthwhile stores. For example, be sure to visit the Gucci boutique in Paris or Sydney.
In the summer of 2013, the largest men's boutique opened in Milan. It covers an area of 1600 square meters. In addition, there are also several stores in Russia that are worthy of attention. 5 branded boutiques have been opened in Moscow, as well as one each in Yekaterinburg, Samara, Sochi, St. Petersburg and Nizhny Novgorod.
Movies
In 2013, actor James Franco presented his documentary film “The Director” to the world, in which he told everything behind the scenes of the fashion house.
In addition, in 2016, Wong Kar-Wai announced his desire to shoot another film dedicated to Gucci. He plans to collaborate with Annapurna Pictures and wants to cast actress Margot Robie in the lead role.
Contact information
- Official website: gucci.com;
- Instagram:@gucci;
- Head office: Milan, via Broletto 20.
The young Italian Guccio Gucci opened his first leather goods store in Florence in 1922. Things quickly took off, the Gucci brand became known in Italy, and then throughout Europe. The eldest son Aldo (Guccio had six children in total) actively helped his father. In 1933, he came up with the brand's logo: two letters GG, speaking of Guccio Gucci, founder and father. By the way, at first the GG “stirrups” were not turned towards each other.
The brand was inspired by horse racing
Gucci stores sold horse harnesses, leather, high quality, and other equipment for riders. The fittings and prints in the form of stirrups and snaffles now remind us of this. The brand remembers and honors its history. Charlotte Casiraghi, a princess and an excellent horsewoman, did not become the face of the first Gucci cosmetic line for nothing.
Legendary loafers are over 60 years old
Gucci loafers with a metal buckle were introduced in 1953. Aldo Gucci, the son of the brand's founder, decided to expand the business and switched to shoes. These loafers happily celebrated their 60th anniversary with a separate exhibition in 2013. And, we are sure, they will live just as long, and even longer.
Bamboo Bag: a matter of chance
This saddle-shaped bag appeared in 1947. The famous bamboo handle arose due to a shortage of other material in the Italian factory: the time was post-war. Nowadays bags, umbrellas, furniture have bamboo handles...
Flora: flowers for a princess
The Flora print, another Gucci legend, appeared in 1966. It was created specifically for Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco. Grace visited the Gucci boutique, but could not decide on a scarf. Rudolfo Gucci called illustrator Vittorio Accornero and he literally created the drawing overnight. She really liked the scarf that Grace received as a gift.
The history of the Gucci family can be used to make a movie with Italian passions
And this film will, alas, not have the happiest ending. After the death of Guccio Gucci, his sons, Aldo and Rodolfo, each received 50 percent of the shares of the campaign. Aldo's son Paolo, having matured, wanted to produce products under his own name, for which his father fired him from all posts in the fashion house. The vengeful Paolo reported to the tax service about some of his father’s financial frauds, and he was convicted. Paolo himself was not very honest either; for example, he avoided paying alimony.
Not all was well in the second branch of this family either. Rodolfo's son Maurizio was accused of forging his father's will (he was sentenced to a year in prison, Maurizio fled). As a result, Maurizio, left alone at the head of the Gucci house, sold all the shares. Maurizio's life ended tragically: he was shot dead near the Gucci office in Milan. They blamed his ex-wife for this.
Is Gucci in bad taste?
In the 80s, the fashion house was going through a crisis; many small firms received the right to produce products with the Gucci logo. As a result, low-quality, cheap products with the logo of the famous Italian brand appeared on sale. For a time, Gucci became associated with cheap knockoffs. Alas.
Gucci and Tom Ford
In 1994, Tom Ford came to Gucci and became the person the brand was missing. The designer modernized the brand, developed the DNA of the brand, not forgetting about the “equestrian” history, but focusing on sensual, radiant, bold outfits. It was a ten-year, very fruitful union that gave the brand a second wind.
Italy. Florence - 1921. Guccio Gucci (Italian: Guccio Gucci) (1881-1953) opened his small leather workshop and small store. The son of a Florentine merchant, accustomed to work from childhood, Guccio worked more and more, and soon people started talking about him. Guccio was used to working, as they say, “conscientiously”; his assortment included suitcases, gloves, belts, and shoes. All this was done conscientiously and efficiently. Gradually, Guccio began to attract the most the best masters. Customers appeared from all over Europe who appreciated the highest quality of Guccio's goods. In 1938, the first boutique was opened in Rome. In 1947, he released a bag with bamboo handles, which is also a Guccio signature product. His luxury goods featured distinctive symbols: bridle, spur, stirrup, striped (green and red ribbon).
Guccio Gucci
In the 50s, the already well-known company Gucci produced suede moccasins that everyone liked and gained popularity. After the death of the founder, the company gained international fame - boutiques were opened in London, New York, and Paris. In the 60s, stores opened in Hong Kong and Tokyo. At the same time, the company developed its world-famous GG logo, as well as the Flora silk scarf, which actress Grace Kelly loved, and a shoulder bag for Jackie Kennedy, which became symbols of the company. During these years the company was at the pinnacle of success.
There were many competitors, but the company managed to remain popular, and its unique products have always been the embodiment of style and elegance in the fashion world.
However, they turned out to be stronger than their competitors family conflicts, which was detrimental to business. Unfortunately, the hot and emotional nature of family members hinders the more successful development of the House of Gucci. Often meetings about the organization and management of stores, as well as about inheritance, ended in violent disputes and disagreements between family members. Sometimes bags, wallets, and ashtrays flew at each other. These quarrels almost led the company to bankruptcy.
In the 70s, brothers Aldo and Rodolfo Gucci owned 50% of the company. Aldo developed the Gucci Accessories Collection to improve the sales of the Gucci Parfums line. This collection contained mainly small items: lighters, pens, cosmetic bags; and was inexpensive. For several years, this range was sold very successfully, but cheap goods gradually diminished the company's name, and Gucci's success at that time was due to such admirers as Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Onassis.
After Rodolfo's death in 1983, his son Maurizio set up Gucci Licensing in Holland. He then brings in Dawn Mello, who was popular in the retail business at the time, as executive vice president. In the early 80s, many people could obtain licenses to produce their goods under the Gucci brand. There were cases when the Gucci logo was even placed on rolls toilet paper! Former admirers of Gucci products abandoned their idol. From 1987 to 1993, the investment group Investcorp acquired shares of the company. In 1993, Maurizio sold his last share of Investcorp, as the majority of the company's managers decided that he was incapable of leading. This was confirmed by the fact that Gucci was on the verge of bankruptcy. Since then, the company is no longer owned by the Gucci family. Transformations began instantly, which are associated with the names of Domenico De Sole, who became the head of the company, and Tom Ford, the creative director.
Tom Ford, who grew up in Texas, early childhood interested in fashion, graduated from the School of Design in architecture. Dawn Mello was able to discern his talent, and in 1990 he was already working for Gucci. He managed within three years to raise the Gucci brand and lead it to greatness, which it had already forgotten as a result of heated battles between family members. He then created a sensation with his shoes, bags, and belts that looked incredibly sexy and raised his annual income from $250 million to a billion. Then it became clear to many that fashion is a business in which the pinnacle of success is achieved thanks to the leadership.
By 1998, the company regained its lost position and began producing luxury goods again. The assortment included the highest quality watches, cosmetics, perfumes and jewelry. De Sole and Ford had grandiose plans - to turn the company into one of the best pillars of the fashion world.
This could not help but be noticed by its main competitors, which united such brands as Givenchy, Dior, Louis Vuitton and others under its tutelage. It was he who attempted the takeover.
To protect yourself from LVMH, management Gucci formed a strategic alliance with Pinault Printemps Redoute (PPR).
This time, Bernard Arnault, the head of LVMH, failed and was unable to merge Gucci into LVMH. This struggle lasted until 2004.
The House of Gucci is now owned by the French conglomerate Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (PPR), which is the second largest luxury goods company after LVMH.
The House of Gucci once again attracts talented designers who create new exclusive items of the highest quality, continuing the journey that began in 1921 with a small shop in Florence. The book “Gucci from Gucci” was recently published, dedicated to the 85th anniversary of the trading house, which is also magnificent and a work of art, like everything that Gucci produces.
IN present moment owns a portfolio of brands, each of which plays its own special role in the well-oiled Gucci machine. Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta are the core of the business. Boucheron, Bedat & Co and YSL Beaute are in the jewelry, watches, cosmetics and perfumes industries. And the Brands Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, Sergio Rossi are the avant-garde, the leading edge of the ongoing war for the minds and souls of the sophisticated public.
Collection women's clothing from Gucci, Milan Fashion Week
(collection spring-summer 2013)
It’s probably impossible to find a person who doesn’t know about Gucci - after all, it is the most famous and popular brand in the world. It produces perfumes, handbags, suitcases, and clothing items. All products of this brand are popular and loved in all countries. The prestige of this brand has been at the highest level for many decades. Everyone knows it as a very expensive and spectacular luxury segment. Gucci is part of the Kering holding (France). Only one fashion house, Louis Vuitton, has surpassed Gucci in sales of clothing, bags and suitcases. Gucci continues to lead the way, as was evident in 2017. It constantly releases new extraordinary models and trends.
Summary:
A little bit of history
Fashion house Gucci has a long history. Its founder, Guccio Gucci, founded a small sewing workshop in 1904, in which accessories and items for equestrian sports were made and then offered for sale. Gucci himself (1881) from childhood was introduced to the handicraft arts: sewing, finishing, etc. He was taught all the intricacies and subtleties of tailoring by his father, since he himself made and sold hats, and, of course, passed on more than one to his son cunning and secrets of mastery.
Gucci opened his first store at the age of 23. But this venture brought him neither success nor profit. Trade was weak, a lot of debts accumulated, and relations with his father went wrong. And so he dropped everything and went to London, deciding to start running his own affairs.
The guy went to work at The Savoy, a respectable hotel, and spent more than 10 years there. He had to perform the duties of a porter, elevator operator, and bellhop. He managed to save about 30 thousand lire, which was good money for those times. simple guy. But during his time working at a London hotel, he observed the hotel's clients. And I noticed something interesting. All wealthy people used only expensive, high-quality suitcases. By this criterion it was possible to determine the social status and wealth of a person.
After this he returned to Italy. And he organized an enterprise for the production of suitcases and clothing and accessories for riders. This time things went well. Gucci used only the highest quality leather, and all the items made in its workshop were beautiful. It was this product that people heard about in Europe.
By that time, Guccio already had a family: a wife and six children. The sons began to work in their father's workshop. The eldest of them, named Aldo, came up with a logo with the help of which the things made in the Gucci workshop were easy to recognize and remember. This is his idea - the letters GG, which stood for the initials Guccio Gucci.
By 1937, instead of a small workshop, a real family factory had already appeared. And they produced ladies' gloves and handbags on it.
In Rome, on Via Condotti, the Gucci family opened a store in 1938. Two years later, Gucci stores appeared in many cities throughout the country. Aldo Gucci, Guccio's eldest son, diversified the product range with ties and scarves. And, in addition, he was able to bring the Gucci brands overseas. The company opened its first boutique in New York on Fifth Avenue in 1953.
Aldo, among other things, introduced the idea of making women's handbags, decorated with bamboo handles. These models immediately won the hearts of ladies with delicate taste. Such handbags were worn by ladies of high society, famous actresses and even queens. Slightly modified and improved models of such handbags are still on sale today, but their popularity has not diminished.
Gucci clothing and accessories often appeared in films. In many cult films you can see things from Gucci. For example, Audrey Hepburn in the famous “Roman Holiday” is wearing branded moccasins, and around her neck is a thin airy Gucci scarf.
Besides, women's bag with a long belt has also become very popular. They called her "Jackie-O!" in honor of Jacqueline Kennedy, the wife of the American president, who was famous for her sophisticated grace and taste. The ruling family of Monaco also praised this brand very highly. At the wedding ceremony during the prince's marriage, all guests were given gifts - exclusive handkerchiefs from Gucci. And subsequently this brand became the main one for the royal family.
Black brand stripe
After Guccio's death, his sons Rodolfo and Aldo continued his business. The eldest son, Aldo, moved to the USA to expand and strengthen the business. In addition, he opened networks branded stores in Paris and London, and even later, in the second half of the 60s - in South Korea and China.
However, not everything went smoothly. In the 70s, conflicts and misunderstandings arose in the family. And this greatly damaged the business, so much so that the company actually went bankrupt. The management was carried out by Aldo Gucci. And Rodolfo owned a small number of shares, only 20%. At that same time, the company began producing Gucci perfumes. This direction was carried out by the grandson of Guccio Gucci, the son of Aldo - Paolo.
Aldo made a serious mistake. He, together with small and unknown companies, established the production of various cheap small accessories - lighters, cosmetic bags, pens, etc. And ordinary people, not related to the nobility and wealth, happily began to purchase them in order to have at least a small souvenir from Gucci. This did not please wealthy clients who stopped purchasing Gucci brands, considering that they were no longer an indicator of luxury and high cost. In short, the company almost completely went bankrupt.
Family members increasingly lost mutual understanding. Paolo Gucci wanted to take away at least a share in the family business from his father through the court. But his father, Aldo, stripped him of his positions. To take revenge, Paolo denounced his father, informing government agencies that Aldo was evading taxes, although he was supposed to contribute $7 million. And Aldo was arrested for one year. Subsequently, Paolo completely withdrew from family affairs, selling his share of the shares for 41 million.
After the death of Rodolfo Gucci, his son named Maurizio took over the management of the company. And not only did he not improve the situation, but on the contrary, he almost completely destroyed the business. Many Asian companies were given the right to produce things with the Gucci logo, which, of course, were not of high quality. The market is flooded with cheap fakes. And the company lost its customers. By the end of the 80s, Gucci models were considered almost cheap, and representatives of high society did not even remember them.
Maurizio Gucci, realizing the situation, sold the business to Investcorp. And the families no longer came close to managing the fashion house.
Resurrection of the brand
But in the 90s, a revival of its former greatness began. Domenico De Soll took over the management of the business, and he managed to return the former prestige to the Gucci brands. He revoked the licenses for the right to use the company's icon, and therefore there was no need to distinguish the original from the fake. And another very successful decision he made: the appointment of Thomas Ford as creative director also played a role. Ford developed men's brand collections; they were eagerly bought in huge quantities. Domenico de Soll and Tom Ford ensured that the popularity of Gucci models again became enormous throughout the world.
PPR Corporation acquired the company in 2004. Thomas Ford and Domenico de Soll no longer understood each other. Before his departure, Ford created a collection for jockeys, which was initially the main activity of the company. And this show was an incredible success - much greater than all the others during the entire existence of the fashion house.
Following Ford's departure from the company, Alexandra Facchinetti took over as chief designer. Before that, she worked in another famous modeling brand(Prada). She held this post for 2 years. Due to disagreement with the management of the company, Facchi-netti left him. And in 2006, Frida Giannini was appointed to this place. When she presented her debut collection, the success was deafening, the audience gave a long standing ovation. She developed new perfumes from Gucci, which were released under her leadership.
Currently, the corporation's creative director is Alessandro Michele. He has his own approach: for the first time he organized a show of both women's and men's collections. This happened in Milan, the audience was completely delighted with the autumn-winter models 2016-17.
Some interesting facts
1. Guccio Gucci was a big fan of horse racing. And this explains the special signature element of some of the brand's accessories. It is similar to bits and stirrups.
2. During World War II, due to shortages for many goods, including leather, the company began to use cotton canvas. That's when the idea was born with green and red stripes, which became the signature signature of the Gucci brand.
3. Handles for handbags made of bamboo appeared in the second half of the 40s. This detail was so loved by fashionistas that it has not lost its relevance even today.
4. Gucci Corporation has also collaborated with automobile companies. Thus, the AMC Hornet is decorated with the Gucci brand coat of arms and green and red stripes, which gives it a particularly luxurious look.
5. Gucci jeans are in the Guinness Book of Records. Their cost was...$3134! Only in 2005, an unknown Japanese collector purchased Levi's pants for $60 thousand. The company has created a huge number female models denim clothes, which were decorated with embroidery, appliqués, etc.
6. Another record recorded in the Book is “The fastest rise of a fashion house” (1999). The Gucci brand, after a long crisis, has again firmly taken one of the first places among fashion corporations.
7. The first Gucci loafers were released in 1932. At the New York Museum contemporary art Samples of classic models are stored. And these days, fashion fans love these wonderful shoes no less and wear them with pleasure.
8. Nowadays, the Gucci brand ranks 38th among the most expensive, as presented by Forbes magazine. The Gucci brand label was valued at $12.4 billion.
9. The company participates in charity events. In 2012, the brand released new collections: T-shirts and some GG Flag accessories. After the sale of the products, 25% of the proceeds were transferred to Unicef. These funds were intended to help the poor in different countries Asia and Africa.
The history of the fashion house, or the Gucci company, is somewhat reminiscent of the life of a person, or rather, a long-liver: ups and downs, difficulties and overcoming them, bright events and long hard work. But the fashion brand lives two, three, four times longer than a person and outlives not only its creator, but also many of his successors. And how wonderful it is that Gucci lives and continues to live despite any difficulties! Let it continue to live, delighting millions of people with new collections, and giving scope for the development of the talents of wonderful designers.
Video
IN modern world fashion brand "Gucci" remains one of the most influential and authoritative. “Gucci suit” or “Gucci tie” sounds almost like a magic spell for those who can afford to purchase any item from this world famous brand. If you allow yourself to pay attention to how you look, then the Gucci brand is just the combination of luxury and kitsch that you need. Now the Gucci Fashion House produces not only shoes, bags, ready-to-wear clothes, but also perfumes - in a word, everything that is necessary for the average consumer from high society.
Gucci logo
The history of the House of Gucci, as it should be in Italy, is full of tragic and mysterious events and circumstances worthy of the great countrymen Borgia and Medici. Fatal destinies, civil strife, financial crises, generational curses- all this seems to have come from the depths of centuries. Over almost a hundred years of its existence, the House of Gucci has turned into a real colossus of fashion, a genuine fashion empire that has known times of prosperity and oblivion. Now it is difficult to imagine that the brand, which is associated primarily with the glamor and chic of the aristocracy, was created by a simple Italian saddler, who initially made wallets and suitcases.
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Florence has long been considered a major Italian leather center. Even in the Middle Ages, Florentine craftsmen were famous for their skill in the finest leather dressing. Guccio Gucci, the founder of the Fashion House, was the son of a Florentine artisan and inherited the secrets of their craftsmanship from his ancestors. In 1906, he opened a saddlery workshop in Florence under the loud name Gucci House. However, the workshop was soon closed, and Gucci himself worked for some time as a doorman in Paris, Florence and London. In 1920, at the age of 39, Gucci returned to Italy with a small capital of 30 thousand lire, with which he opened his own store, which sold accessories for riders, which enjoyed great success. The business turned out to be so successful that within a few years Gucci was able to open another store, expanding the range of products to include handbags, wallets and suitcases.
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In 1923, he began making leather jewelry for the “golden” Florentine youth. Moreover, the master was interested not so much in the product itself as in his own, not yet created, logo. The two intertwined letters G became not just a lucky find for Gucci, but also a talisman that brought him worldwide fame and wealth. The success of jewelry created under the La Gucci Vita brand was so overwhelming that orders for leather goods literally rained down on the master. And a few years later, many leather goods boutiques with a brand name appeared on the territory of the Apennine Peninsula, which gradually turned into a legend.
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The heyday of the House came during the time of Mussolini, for whom the Gucci family designed one of his Florentine palazzos. By this time, the family had become a company, and the company had become a family, which allowed it to achieve success and conquer financial heights.
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In 1947, the company launched its first icon products - a bag with a bamboo handle. This seemingly unremarkable bag became a kind of fetish for many years thanks to its famous owners - Ingrid Bergman, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Grace Kelly.
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In 1953, the head of the House of Gucci dies, leaving his business to his sons - Aldo, Hugo, Vasco and Rodolfo. In the mid-50s. XX century the company was booming, opening more and more branches and boutiques on both sides of the ocean - in London, Paris, Beverly Hills and even Tokyo.
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In the 60s XX century The famous loafer shoe model appeared - light moccasin-type shoes with studded soles. Gradually trademark became a symbol of luxury and respectability. And if previously Gucci fans were exclusively avant-garde playboys, now they have been joined by movie and show business stars. Envious competitors considered Gucci a “protégé” of the Kennedys, since Jacqueline had a personalized handbag with bamboo handles, which brought its creators world fame, and John sported exclusive moccasins, now on display at the New York Museum of Modern Art.
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Thus, by the 50th anniversary of its existence, Gucci has become one of the most successful fashion companies in the world, with its clients the elite of society.
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Meanwhile, the success of the company became the main reason for its rapid decline, as relations in the large family of Guccio Gucci heirs became tense to the limit. The beginning of the end was marked by the opening of a new Gucci salon on fashionable Fifth Avenue in New York and a crushing scandal associated with the publicity by Paolo Gucci, Aldo's son, of a number of documents exposing his father to financial fraud. Paolo became an ardent supporter of his cousin Maurizio, who later ousted his uncle and cousin from the family business.
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Family quarrels in Italian style, disagreements in the company's management immediately affected its income. By the beginning of the 80s. financial situation became almost threatening. To save the dying House, Maurizio Gucci took a strategically important step by selling 42% of the shares of a well-known Western company. In addition, he actively sold licenses left and right to produce things with the famous logo. But, despite all efforts, by the beginning of the 90s the company still experienced several serious crises, and complete collapse was avoided only by a miracle. The Minister of Foreign Affairs acted as a savior Saudi Arabia, the head of a large financial company and a passionate collector of expensive wristwatch. In 1993, he gained full control of Gucci's capital when Maurizio sold him his grandfather's business. Thus, by the 90s. XX century The Gucci brand ceased to be the property of the family. And the adventurer Maurizio himself was shot dead in the reception room of a Milan office in 1995 by an assassin sent by a jealous wife.
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As for the company, its savior was the then unknown American Tom Ford, thanks to whom the Fashion House regained its lost positions on world catwalks. A new president campaign Domenico de Sole began restructuring the business, based on the idea that Gucci products should be luxury items available only to the rich and famous members of society. He was well aware of the problems that the company had recently faced: insufficiently fashionable stores and an abundance of cheap goods. De Sole and Ford managed to turn Gucci into one of the most powerful brands in the world. They managed to revive and modernize the “classics” of Gucci. The image that Ford created was most suitable for spoiled and eccentric Hollywood stars. Critics consider this policy “retro,” but the designer indignantly denied such attacks and retorted, calling his style “pure fantasy.”
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Obviously, the policy of the new president and artistic director of the company was correct, since already in 1999 Gucci was included in the Guinness Book of Records in the category “Fastest rise of a fashion house.” In a small article it was written that within three years Tom Ford had turned this fashion house into one of the most popular in the world. At the same time, Gucci's annual turnover increased from $250 million to $1.2 billion. In the same year, the Gucci House announced the purchase of Sanofi, which is the owner of the Yves Saint Laurent Fashion House, the soul of French fashion. In addition, he became the owner of the shoe company Sergio Rossi and the French company Boucheron, which produced exclusive jewelry.
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Today, economic strategy from Domenico de Sole is studied at Harvard. Centralization and control are its main characteristics. Cut off the unnecessary, ruthlessly throw away the ballast, find the most important thing in the brand and focus on this strong point. It was this somewhat brutal approach that allowed de Sole to create an empire. He applied the same scheme to all acquired brands, from Gucci to YSL: he minimized the number of licenses, reconstructed production lines and the distribution system. This approach did not bring quick profits, but it was the pursuit of quick money, according to de Sole, that ruined many good brands.
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However, economic strategy in the fashion business is nothing without a designer. Therefore, Tom Ford’s merits are no less than de Sole’s. Tom Ford, who combines design and marketing talents in equal parts, initially played on the brand's scandalous reputation. Thanks to provocative advertising, teetering on the brink of a foul, and the ultra-sexy outfits that Ford showed during the catwalk, Gucci quickly became popular. Tom Ford does not take into account traditions and history. He does not perform a careful resuscitation, as Alber Elbaz does at Lanvin and Christopher Bailey at Burberry. Ford, with an unwavering hand, destroys everything old, with the exception, of course, of the name, and essentially builds a new brand. At the same time, he controls not only the creation of clothing and accessories, but also monitors the interior of stores and the appearance of display windows. All this is thought through to the smallest detail and serves only one purpose - creating a brand image.
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Since 1995, Gucci shares have been traded on the New York and Amsterdam stock exchanges. By 1999, the brand was doing so well that de Sole began to develop the company as a multi-brand company. “If you're a public company, you have no other choice,” he says. “We need to increase profits, and with one brand this is impossible.” Since 2001, the largest shareholder of the Gucci Group (53.2 percent of shares) has been PPR (Pinault Printemps-Redoute).
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However, in April 2004, Tom Ford and Domenico de Sole left the Gucci Group. They leave at their own request and by mutual agreement of the parties. They did not consider it necessary to renew their contracts and three positions immediately became vacant: two at Gucci and one at Yves Saint Laurent. And if at YSL the situation quickly returned to normal after the arrival of Stefano Pilati as creative director, then at Gucci things were not calm for some time. At first, the men's ready-to-wear line was headed by Scotsman John Ray, and the women's line by Alessandra Facinneti. But both designers did not last long in these positions, according to critics, due to the eccentricity of creative thinking that did not fit into the Gucci framework. At the same time, Frida Giannini also worked at the Gucci Group, creating accessories for this House. In February 2006, she was tasked with becoming the new creative director and head of the House of Gucci, which she remains to this day.
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The new motto of the House of Gucci - for modernity and novelty - fully corresponds to the spirit of its first owner, and is now successfully embodied by his followers. Today Gucci is a chain of 158 stores around the world, 73 duty-free stores and 275 departments in major department stores and shopping galleries. These are large-scale advertising campaigns and the company's star clientele - Madonna, Tom Cruise, Sharon Stone, etc. These are spectacular fashion shows in Paris and Milan that have great resonance in the fashion world. This is finally the third brand in Europe after Armani and Prada. The Gucci logo adorns not only leather goods and various accessories, but also 11 clothing lines, as well as shoes, watches, perfumes and furs.
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The legend of Italian chic, created by a simple Florentine saddler at the beginning of the 20th century, lives and flourishes, despite all adversity. However, none of the family members are anymore involved in the company.
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