00:18 Unknown 1 Comment
Hello!
In the classic model shirts To process the cut of the neck, use a turn-down collar with a stand. In our example, we will look at a collar with a cut-off stand.
To create a collar pattern, we need only one measurement - half neck circumference (Ssh) = 15cm.
Collar length and width. Let's construct a rectangle ABCD, whose sides AB and CD are equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck + 2.5 cm (AB = CD = Csh + 2.5 = 15 + 2.5 = 17.5 cm). Sides AD and BC are equal to 11 cm (AD = BC = 11 cm).
Collar stand. From point D up, set aside 4 cm and place point D 1 (segment DD 1 = 4 cm). To the right of point D 1 we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with side BC, and we denote the intersection point as K.
To the left of point K we put 2 cm and put point K 1 (KK 1 = 2 cm), up from point K we put 0.5 cm and we get point K 2 (KK 2 = 0.5 cm). Connect points K1 and K2.
From point C up, set aside 1.5 cm and mark point C 1 (CC 1 = 1.5 cm). We divide the DS side in half and designate the division point D 2. Now let's connect the straight line point D 2 with point C 1 and extend this straight line from point C 1 by 0.5 cm and place point C 2.
Now let's connect points K 2 and C 2.
Collar flap. From point D 1 we put 1 cm upward, we get point D 2 (D 1 D 2 = 1 cm). Let's connect points D 2 and K 1.
Down from point A we put 2 cm and mark point A 1 (AA 1 = 2 cm) and to the left of point B we put 2 cm, we get point B 1 (BB 1 = 2 cm). We connect the resulting points A 1 and B 1 with a dotted line.
Divide the dotted line A 1 B 1 in half, and from the downward division point we restore a perpendicular of 1 cm. Let's draw a smooth line for the upper cut of the collar through points A 1, 1 and B 1, maintaining a right angle at point A 1.
Let's connect points B 1 and K 1.
This completes the construction of the drawing.
And our stand-up collar pattern is ready!
Many shirt models have pockets, often patch pockets located on the chest. Pockets can be either welt or with flaps, and most often shirts have only one pocket.
In this article, I propose a specific model of a patch pocket with a flap, which we will need for further work.
Pattern of a patch pocket with a flap. Let us draw two rectangles ABCD and KLMN, whose sides AB, CD, CL and MN are equal to 10 cm, sides AD and BC are equal to 3.5 cm, and sides KN and LM are equal to 11 cm.
Stand collars are one of the simplest collars.
However, despite their simplicity of construction, stand-up collars are very diverse. This diversity is expressed in the width (height) of the stand, in the configuration of the top line, in the design of the ends, as well as in the degree of fit to the neck.
This group of collars can be divided into two subgroups:
1 - cut-off stand-up collars;
2 - one-piece stand-up collars with shelves and backs.
In this article we will look at several designs of this type of collar related to cut-off stands, which differ in varying degrees of fit to the neck.
In the first In this option, we will build a stand-up collar that is not adjacent to the neck.
The drawing of such a collar is made in the form of a rectangular strip.
We begin the construction by bringing the neckline into accordance with the chosen style. This means that after we have decided on the model of a dress, blouse, raincoat, etc., it is necessary to deepen, widen or change the shape of the neckline, if this is provided for by the style of the selected model.
We draw a new neckline and measure its length using the front and back patterns. This can be conveniently done using a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on the edge.
The ideal option is when you specify the neck line during the fitting, correct it if necessary, and then measure.
In our example, we widen and deepen the neck by about 0.75-1cm.
And let's start building the collar.
Draw a right angle. We denote the top by point O. From point O to the right we lay off a segment OA equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured from the patterns of the front and back. In our example, this value is 20 cm, and you set aside your value and place point A.
The desired stand height is set vertically from points O and A (for dresses and blouses on average 3 - 5 cm; for raincoats and jackets it can reach 10 -12 cm or more). We will take 4cm as an example and place points O1 and A1 respectively.
Connect points O1 and A1 with a horizontal line. That, in fact, is the whole construction.
There are some nuances left.
If, according to the model, the ends of the stand are shaped at right angles, then the upper collar and collar can be cut out in one piece in the form of a single strip. In this case, the top edge of the post will have a fold rather than a seam.
If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A and A1 to the right we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A2 and A3 and connect them with straight lines. The final contour of the stand-up collar will be indicated by the letters O, A2, A3, O1.
When making patterns for the upper collar, do not forget to add 0.2-0.3 cm in the transverse seams and along the top seam to create a piping, but if the collar is one-piece with a collar - only in the transverse seams. See fig.
In the second option, consider a stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.
We begin construction in the same sequence as in the first option. During the fitting, we clarify the shape of the neckline, adjust if necessary and measure the length of the neckline.
Draw a right angle. We denote the top by point O. From point O to the right we lay off a segment OA equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured from the patterns of the front and back. In our example, this value is 20 cm, and you set aside your value and place point A.
From point O upward we set aside the height of the stand (for dresses and blouses it is taken on average 3 - 5 cm). We will take 4cm as an example and place point O1.
From point O to the right we set aside 1/3 of the distance OA and place point C.
From point A, draw a vertical line up and put 1.5-4 cm on it, put point A1.
The greater the distance AA1 (the greater the bend of the stand), the more the upper edge of the stand will be adjacent to the neck.
From point A1 upward, set aside a distance equal to segment OO1 or another provided by your model, and place point A2.
We connect points C and A1 with a smooth curve. The final stitching line of the stand passes through points O, C, A1.
We shape the upper edge of the stand by connecting points O1 and A2 with a smooth curve parallel to the stitching line OCA1.
From point A1 at right angles to line CA1, draw a straight line until it intersects with line O1A2 and place point A3.
The ends (corners) of the stand are designed in accordance with the style of the product. In our example they are rounded.
If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A3 and A1 to the right, parallel to the center line of the rack, we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A4 and A5 and connect them with straight lines. The final outline of the stand-up collar is formed with the letters O, C, A4, A5, O1.
I remind you. The upper collar pattern along the outer contour should be 1-3mm larger than the collar pattern. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that the stitching seam does not peek out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. to form a edging along the top and transverse seams of the rack.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar from the main drawing clearly along the line, this will be the collar.
And then, on a separate sheet of paper, enlarge this pattern by adding the required amount along the outer contour - this will be the upper collar.
The variety of collars of this type is achieved both through the design and through the use of various types of finishing. We are preparing a separate section about this, as well as about processing technology.
Follow the site news and you will always be up to date.
Good luck! Valentina Nivina.
Download in one file | | | |
Don't forget to add it to your bookmarks. The bookmark buttons are below.
The rights to this article belong exclusively to the author. Full or partial use of the materials of this article in electronic publications on the Internet is possible only if the following conditions are met:
Information about the author must be preserved. In the title or at the end of the published reprint, the source must be indicated: www.site Internet resource "Sewing Crafts Master" with a direct, active, visible to the user, not blocked from indexing by search engines hyperlink to this article.
Republication of texts in newspapers, magazines or other replication outside the Internet is possible only with the written consent of the author.
This year my son went to first grade for the first time. This is a big holiday in our family and a new stage in the life of our child. There was a lot of excitement, a lot of thinking on the topic: “Is the child ready and can he be responsible?”
But now the first week of school has already passed, and my son has matured during these days, which surprised not only my husband and I, but also our friends, who also noticed changes.
Before the first of September it was necessary to sew a white shirt for the child. I had a similar experience, but this time I decided make a shirt according to all the sewing rules. This was especially true for the collar, since I always lacked the strength and courage to read a chapter of a book on this topic before starting work.
This time I forced myself to do everything right, and it became a lesson for life. Now I am not afraid to sew this type of product, since the process already seems easy and understandable to me. I hope everything will be clear to you too.
To work you need:
- fabric for sewing a shirt
- interlining to strengthen the collar
- threads to match the color of the fabric
- scissors, pins
- sewing machine 
“Shirt collar” is such a general concept that within the framework of one topic we can only talk about its types and history, but this information is much easier to find than a good MK for sewing it, so we’ll focus on the latter.
Creating a collar pattern can take from 1 minute to 30 minutes. The easiest way- is to find a ready-made shirt pattern with the desired collar.
There is also another easy way to create a pattern- using the program for computer construction of various kinds of RedCafe patterns (I already told you about it in previous topics).
In the most difficult way(but quite interesting because of the opportunity to use imagination) can be called independent pattern construction. You can also use a graphic collar pattern.
When the pattern is ready, a lot of questions arise, how to assemble a collar correctly so that in the end it turns out beautiful and neat.
We glue the lower parts of the collar and collar (stand) with a thermal pad (non-woven fabric). We fold the parts in pairs and sew the paired collar parts along the top and side edges.
We cut the corners on both sides as shown in the figure.
We turn the collar inside out and sew the stand to it.
We turn the rack inside out, and we get the product that we so often see on shirts, jackets and dresses.
Now all that remains is to sew it into the finished product and make decorative stitches, if necessary.
By the way, if decorative stitches are made by hand and not by machine, the price of the product rises significantly, since manual labor was used to sew it. Such shirts are not only expensive, but also look very beautiful.
Happy sewing!
To receive the best articles, subscribe to Alimero's pages.
Every seamstress has a lot of techniques in her arsenal that can be used to add zest to any item. Finishing with lace and accessories is the final stage that shapes the appearance of the item. The collar pattern completes the modeling. The wide variety of models can make choosing difficult. A simple and easy-to-sew stand-up collar pattern is the best choice for both beginning seamstresses and experienced seamstresses.
Learning to create a stand-up collar pattern: application of the product
A collar of this cut goes well with any clothing. In a coat, for a blouse, for a dress - this initially masculine type of collar looks casual and elegant in a woman’s wardrobe.
Stand collars tailored in this style are often used to decorate items in an office style. This model is also suitable for shirts, both men's and women's.
How to make a crochet collar.The classic collar is easy to crochet. What kind of accessory you get - in a vintage style, fashionable and openwork, or strict and casual, depends only on the knitting pattern. It is very easy to knit such an accessory for beginners who have mastered the basic stitches - single crochet, double crochet.
To knit, you need to cast on a number of air loops equal to the circumference of the neck + 5 cm (in the end, the number of loops should be a multiple of three). Knitting is done in even rotating rows with single crochets. At the beginning of each row, 3 air loops are made - these are lifting loops that replace the first column. As soon as the height of the fabric becomes equal to the height of the neck, increases are made - in every third loop. An increase is knitting two loops from the same base. If you want the collar to be fluffy, the increases are made in several rows (3 - 5), if it is more strict, then 2 rows of increases are enough. Next, 5–9 rows are knitted using the same single crochet stitches to achieve a length at which the collar will slightly cover the shoulder. Decorative snaps or buttons are used to connect the collar fabric.
Made with knitting needles, this accessory looks no less advantageous. It can be either an independent element in clothing or complete the neckline. The easiest way to knit a stand is with long knitting needles. The circumference of the throat is measured using a centimeter. Cast on the required number of loops + 2 cm for a loose fit and pattern formation. The collar is knitted with a 2x2 ribbed pattern. This accessory will complement warm clothes well. You can use it to complete a sweater or raglan. The resulting collar is sewn in a circle to the neck of the product so that the ends meet on one side (front, back or side - depends on the choice of the craftsman).
Sewing a collar for outerwear.For a jacket or raincoat, this collar cut is one of the most advantageous. Due to the wide variety of options for the fit of the collar and the design of the ends, the shape of the top line and the method of sewing, you can sew a product of any style.
It is not advisable for beginning seamstresses to immediately take on fur collars. Although this material is very beautiful and emphasizes the status and taste of the person who will wear fur-trimmed clothing, it is extremely difficult to work with. Furrier skills come with years and numerous trials; this material does not forgive mistakes. Unevenly cut skin will crumble and warp during sewing. Having gained patience and mastered simpler sewing options, you can begin to work on this material.
Master class on step-by-step cutting of a collar with your own hands
Let's look at a master class on how to create a pattern for a simple collar. Let's open the collar as in the photo.
The work is carried out using EMKO technology. The pattern is first drawn on paper, then transferred to fabric, and only then cut and sewn.
To start work, let's draw a right angle, the vertex of which is point A. From point A, measure 3-4 cm vertically upward and mark point A1. We measure the length of the neck (neck circumference + 2 cm for seams and loose fit). We set aside the length of the neck from point A1 and put point B. Using a smooth semicircular line we connect points B and A1 at a distance of one third (point B) of the distance from point B. Now from A1 upward we set off the desired width of the collar. Mark point A2. It is necessary to check that A1A2 is equal to BB1. This is approximately 3 - 6 cm. Now from A2 to the left we mark a distance of 2 cm and place A3. It is necessary to connect A3 and A1. We design the upper edge of the future collar according to the chosen model through points A3 and B1.
To add rigidity, a seal is placed in the collar.
Modeling the collar depends entirely on the seamstress. It can be with or without a fastener, with rounded ends in front or with sharp ones, go joint to joint or overlap. The chosen option, due to small differences from one to the other, will add zest to the thing. The stand is also used on a dress with a neckline. The thing turns out to be unusual - a strict collar compensates for and at the same time complements the open neckline.
It is worth considering that sewing a dress involves many stages. Before you take on a large item, you need to learn how to sew individual elements. Cutting a simple sweater with a collar will help you master the skill of taking measurements and basting a product, cutting, basting, adjusting and sewing.
The construction of a collar with a fastener at the back is no different from the construction of a regular one. Measurements are taken at the neckline, neck circumference and desired collar width are taken into account. Attaching is done so that the collar strips are at the back, exactly in the middle of the neck (at the level of the vertebra).
Similar collars can be with a lapel. The detailed description provided by the master class will help you easily understand the technology of taking measurements and constructing a pattern.
To get started, draw a rectangle ABCD. Next, the parts of the collar are formed.
Collar length. Let's assume that lines AB and DC are equal to 18 centimeters (measured neck semicircumference = neck circumference divided in half).
Collar width. Lines AD and BC are 4 centimeters.
Sewing line. The DC line is divided exactly in half. Then 1.5 centimeters are laid vertically upward from point C. Draw a sewing line from point D through the dividing point of the DC line, point 1.5, extending it beyond BC by 0.5 centimeters.
Lapel. From point B to the left, 10 centimeters are laid. Then, from point 0.5 through point B, draw a line of arbitrary length, on it from point 0.5 upwards 4 centimeters are laid down and connected to point 10. From point 0.5 upwards 12 centimeters are laid off. The resulting point is connected to point 10 with a dotted line and divided in half. Now 1 centimeter is laid down from the division point. A line is drawn through points 10, 1, 12.
Cut out in any way, sewn or knitted, the collar can be either removable or sewn on. Removable - acts as an independent accessory and goes in addition to evening dresses and wedding dresses. The sewn-on collar is integral with the product.
Video on the topic of the article
DIY pattern - it's easy!
This is a shirt-type collar with a one-piece stand. For men's shirts.
Why did I decide to talk specifically about the men's collar? Because if you are a beginner, you will understand the basic principle of constructing and processing shirt collars at a time. Another variation of such collars is a collar with a cut-off stand. Today we will build a collar with a one-piece stand-up, but they are very similar. And they have the same processing. I think you can easily master both types by following my recommendations for creating a pattern. And in the near future we will start processing the collar and connecting it to the neck.
Construction scheme:
The basic drawing of the collar fits into a rectangle.
Important: in order to accurately match the seams of sewing the collar neck into the neck of the shirt, you should remove the length of the neck seam from the patterns of the front and back of the shirt. Taking into account the area of increase for the fastener. That is, from edge to edge of the shirt.
Subsequently, this value in my construction is designated by the letter N.
Draw a right angle, label the vertex with the letter A.
Collar length:
From point A to the right we put N cm
(the length of the front neck and back of the shirt according to the measurements of the pattern, taking into account the fastener) and put point B (Fig. 1):
All pictures are clickable
A B = removed from the pattern, in our example 20 cm.
From point B downwards we draw a straight line of arbitrary length.
Collar width
From point A downwards we set aside 9.5 cm and place point A 1.
From point A 1 to the right we draw a horizontal line and at the intersection with the vertical we place point B 1.
Collar sewing line
Line A 1 B 1:
From point B 1 to the left, set aside 1/4 of the length of line A 1 B 1. Place point C.
Then from point A 1 upward we set aside 0.7 cm and place point A 2.
From point B 1 upward we set aside 1.5 cm - point B 2.
The collar stitching line is drawn from point A 2 through point C to point B 2.
Comment: The distance between point B 2 and point B 1 regulates the degree of fit of the collar to the neck in the front area. And the smaller it is, the smaller the fit. The stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle (point A 2).
Collar departure line
From point A downwards we set aside 3 cm and place point A 3.
From point B to the left we set aside 1 cm and place point B 3. We connect point A 3 with a smooth concave pattern line to point B 3 so that a right angle is formed at point A 3.
Front collar A
From point B 2 we move the perpendicular upward by 2 cm, and place point C 1.
From point C 1 to the left at a right angle we also set aside 2 cm and immediately up from the resulting point also perpendicularly 0.7 cm. We place point C 2.
We connect points C 1 and C 2 with a straight line.
We also connect points C 2 and B 3 with a straight line.
IMPORTANT! The length of line A 2 B 2 must exactly correspond to the seam where the collar is sewn into the neck of the shirt. Now you can check everything again and adjust the length of the line, if necessary, in the center line of the collar. Simply move the center line of the collar to the left or right.
Line A 2 A 3 – collar fold – lobe line.
From point C 2 to the left (repeating the bends of the line of the neck of the collar), you should draw a line of inflection of the collar stand.
This line is needed to apply the factory, fast and accurate method of processing collars, which I propose to process the collars of men's shirts.
Loop position
On the shirt, measure the allowance for the fastener - usually this distance is 1.5-1.7 cm.
From point B2 to the left along the neck line, set aside the value of this allowance. Place the S point.
This point gives us a reference point for the position of the loop.
In stand-up collars of all types, the loop is always located perpendicular to the center line of the front. Point S – indicates the position of the center line of the shelf on the collar. From point S we draw a perpendicular upward to the inflection line of the collar stand.
Divide the resulting line in half and mark the position of the loop. In the drawing, the right end of the loop - the beginning of the loop - protrudes 2 mm beyond the center line of the shelf. The drawing is ready.
Special techniques in sewing products at the factory have always surprised me with their solutions in the processing of parts that are simple to the point of genius.
I learned one of these secrets a long time ago - when I was sewing men’s shirts in the workshop.
We had a norm of 25 units per shift. Of course, 25 fully tailored shirts! At the time, it seemed very unrealistic to me to sew 25 shirts.
But other craftsmen very quickly taught me a simple way to quickly process the collars and cuffs of a men’s shirt.
And in the first week I finished 15 shirts per shift. Then everything was fine. A couple of months later I was safely fired.
