The sweatshirt contacted, went to the owner and even a report. I won’t describe the knitting (in this new interface, the first version of the message was lost somewhere... so I’m writing the second time quickly, to the point and without preamble. Who is interested in the basic parameters of the blouse?)
In general, when knitting a sweater, into which, according to the idea, a lock should be sewn, along the edge (at a distance of about 1.5-2 cm) I knit a path of purl loops on the front side of the product (i.e. in the purl row we knit one knit stitch, and in the front row we always knit the same loop purl). If you already knitted a blouse at the time of viewing this MK, don’t be upset. You can unravel one loop along the length of the entire product and lift it with a crochet hook. If at the bottom of the product there is a 1x1 elastic band like mine, then just the fifth loop from the beginning of the row will be needed (edge, knit, purl, knit, purl, facial, etc...)
What is good about this method (by the way, I came up with it myself and please do not accuse me of plagiarism) is that on the front side (thanks to the recessed purl loop) the cast-on row for the edge is not visible, and from the purl side a very convenient chain of cast-on stitches is formed
Now we take a circular knitting needle 1-1.5 sizes larger than we knitted the main fabric (in my case, I knitted with a 3-knit, but I cast on 4.5 knitting needles, 80 cm fishing line, ADDI-click). This is done so that the canvas does not tighten and looks neat. Next, we put on the knitting needle the half-loop of the knit chain closest to the edge. Like this:
We attach the thread and knit with front and back rows to the desired height (i.e. when the knitted strip is equal in height to the edge of the product):
Without breaking the thread, we lift the chain from the front side of the product by the outer loops along the entire height of the product and close it in a circle.
We knit another 4-5 circular front rows (about 1-1.5 cm) necessary for sewing in the lock and close the loops with a crochet hook. Take the hook larger size, so as not to pull the edge again.
/ 05/16/2016 at 23:51
Good day, dear needlewomen!
Recently I had to knit men's sweatshirts with zippers. I knitted it, but when I had to sew in the zipper, it turned out that it was not entirely easy. It is necessary to sew it in such a way that it does not warp or tighten anywhere, so that it is both straight and neat.
And so, summing up my “experience is the son of difficult mistakes” (for some reason these lines from Pushkin came to mind), I decided to write an article on how to sew a zipper into a knitted product. Moreover, the process of sewing a zipper into a knitted product is somewhat different from the technology by which a zipper is sewn in when sewing.
So, first, we select the appropriate color and size zipper. It is difficult to choose the exact length. I had to take it a little longer and then cut it off at the top.
The zipper is sewn in after the final assembly of the product, that is, when it is completely sewn. And one more thing before sewing in - you need to prepare the edge strips. Here it already depends on the model and the pattern with which it is connected.
In this example, the central part of the front is knitted mainly with stockinette stitch, and as you know, its edges curl. Therefore, it was simply necessary to strengthen them with narrow strips. It was possible, of course, to sew in a zipper by tucking the edges inward, but somehow I didn’t take this moment into account in order to initially cast on more loops for the shelf.
I made the strips to make them tighter, and on needles of a smaller number than those with which I knitted the main fabric. To prevent the elastic from tightening the fabric, proceed as follows:
- on the shelves I knitted in the traditional way (the first loop is removed, the last one is purled), and therefore the edge turned out to be in the form of a chain. From this chain I collected loops for the strap along the front side of the work, knitting 2 loops from each edge: the first loop was knitted under both walls of the loop, and the second loop only under the front wall (see photo).
We lift the first loop, knitting it under both walls of the edge loop.
We knit the second loop only under the front wall of the edge loop.
In the next row (wrong side of the work) I already started knitting double elastic band(alternate: knit 1, remove 1 loop unknitted - thread before work). This way I knitted 4 rows.
In the 5th (purl) row I closed the loops, alternating: 2 loops - in the rhythm of the 1x1 elastic band, (that is, closing the loops, knit stitch knitted the front one, and purled the loop removed in the previous row), and knitted the next 4 loops 2 together facial way broaches (remove the front one, then purl the loop removed in the previous row and pull it through the removed front one). If you close the loops on the bar in this way, its edge will not be stretched.
Finished plank
When both strips are ready, carefully lay out the product on a flat surface, straightening and leveling it along all seams and sides. We align the planks exactly in length and at the joint.
Then, so that they do not move apart during the process of sewing in the zipper, we sew them, connecting them with oblique stitches and making sure that the edges remain end-to-end - do not diverge or overlap each other (it somehow sounds funny in relation to the details, but I think you get the idea ).
The seam is hard to see in the photo because the threads are thin. I had to add stitches for clarity:
Now turn the jacket inside out. From the inside, you need to attach the zipper in the closed state, set it very evenly: so that the central axis passing along the teeth falls exactly at the junction of the slats. Additionally, you can secure it in several places with pins.
And now we baste the zipper, starting from the bottom, with oblique stitches (this way, it seems to me, it is fixed better and there is less chance that the zipper will move to the side somewhere). Yes, and it’s better to do it not hanging. You can put some cardboard inside the product so that you don’t inadvertently stitch it right through and also baste the zipper to the back.
Having reached the top, we adjust the required length of the zipper, and, if necessary, cut it.
Here I ran into a problem: if you cut it off, the teeth at the top are not secured by anything, and I’m afraid that the slider might fly off during use.
I tried to sew the edge there with threads, but I don’t think it will help much. Maybe someone can tell me how to solve this issue?
Here they swept the lightning. And now we sew it directly.
I do this manually. I don’t risk sewing on a machine, because I don’t know how a knitted fabric might behave under the foot. It seems to me that it is safer to use your hands.
We also sew along the wrong side of the work, starting from the bottom, with threads that match the zipper and the product. Here you should, if possible, try to lay a beautiful, even seam. Moreover, “ main beauty"is needed on the zipper braid, and on the front side of the work, that is, along the knitted fabric, the stitches need to be laid small and unnoticeable.
That’s how I tried to sew: on the wrong side (from the side of the zipper tape) the stitches were wider, and on the side of the face of the product – shorter. It’s a pity, in the photo it’s not very noticeable what I got out of this - the threads merge with the braid, again I had to finish the stitches in red:
Yes, having reached the top, a closed slider can interfere with sewing. You can now undercut the stitching and lower the zipper slider down to safely sew it to the end. So we sew the zipper on both sides.
No, that's not all! If you are making a double collar, as I have here, with a bend in half, you also need to hem the edge of the collar to the neckline, and its side edges to the zipper. And now – EVERYTHING!
A simple but practical zipper makes any clothing original and stylish. In addition, if you know how to sew a zipper into a knitted product, you can quite well design a high stand-up collar that will fit on your head without any problems and at the same time fit your neck perfectly. By the way, in order for a product with a zipper to have a neat appearance not only from the front side, but also from the back, it is best to use the double strip technology to sew it in. So, when starting to pattern a blouse, first of all, you need to accurately calculate the width of the right and left shelves. This is done so that there is a reserve for the knitted strip where the zipper will be sewn. When calculating the details of the cut, it is necessary to leave space in the middle of the future slats for the teeth of the snake and the unhindered movement of the slider. If we talk about the lightning itself, then it is recommended to select its size in advance.
Before making the planks, you need to knit a 10-centimeter sample using facial surface. Then measure the distance from the bottom of the blouse to the top edge of the collar - this will be the main length of the bar itself. By the way, thanks to correctly made calculations, it will be possible to cast loops around the edges of the product without any problems. Next, you need to turn the work over, and also make a set of loops from the inside of the blouse for the bottom layer of the strip. The end loops are closed. Exactly the same work should be done on the right edge of the shelf. It is very important that all the elements match completely, and that the placket does not pull the blouse together or form unsightly bunches. Now you need to unzip the zipper and insert its halves into the double placket. Using red threads, the fabric part of the fastener is basted. The fastener should be basted from bottom to top.
An already secured lock must be checked. If it is positioned correctly, you can safely sew on a zipper using threads that have the same color as the clasp and blouse. This is done manually using a hidden seam or machine stitching. But small manicure scissors will help remove the markings. By the way, the so-called hollow elastic band, which is also an excellent solution for decorating a knitted item with a zipper, will work perfectly as a worthy alternative to a double strap. In this case, it is worth calculating the required number of loops, according to the example of the front stitch. The resulting number is multiplied by two. For example, if a knitted pattern with a length of 10 centimeters has loops in size 15, then to obtain a full elastic band of the same length, only 30 loops are cast on.
As for the first row of hollow elastic, here you need to adhere to the following order: one knit stitch; the subsequent loop is removed unknitted. At this moment, it is recommended to carefully monitor the working thread, which must certainly be located in front of the loop! But the second and subsequent rows of hollow elastic need to be knitted using the knitting technique. By the way, the front loops that were knitted in the previous row, on the contrary, are removed unknitted. It is worth carrying out the plank in accordance with the example until the required width is obtained. Now you can start sewing on the zipper. Start working from the bottom of the product. As you work, you need to gradually remove small sections of empty elastic from the knitting needles. The corresponding section of the fastener is inserted into the area of the bar that opens.
It is necessary to sew open loops: the needle must be passed through the open front loop, threading the zipper fabric at this moment. The needle exits from the wrong side of the product through an open loop. This technique is used until the entire zipper is completely sewn, thanks to which it will be possible to carefully hide the open edge of the hollow elastic and firmly attach the fastener to the placket. The final connecting stitch is usually done using sewing machine. This is the last stage of work, after which you can show off your new fashionable blouse to your friends. Finally, it would be appropriate to say that for sewing in a zipper, it is best to knit a placket using knitting needles that are thinner than those from which the outfit itself is knitted. By the way, these zipper sewing techniques are suitable for almost all knitted items, including cardigans and dresses.
The sweatshirt contacted, went to the owner and even a report. I won’t describe the knitting (in this new interface, the first version of the message was lost somewhere... so I’m writing the second time quickly, to the point and without preamble. Who is interested in the basic parameters of the blouse?)
In general, when knitting a sweater, into which, according to the idea, a lock should be sewn, along the edge (at a distance of about 1.5-2 cm) I knit a path of purl loops on the front side of the product (i.e. in the purl row we knit one knit stitch, and in the front row we always knit the same loop purl). If you already knitted a blouse at the time of viewing this MK, don’t be upset. You can unravel one loop along the length of the entire product and lift it with a crochet hook. If at the bottom of the product there is a 1x1 elastic band like mine, then just the fifth loop from the beginning of the row will be needed (edge, knit, purl, knit, purl, facial, etc...)
What is good about this method (by the way, I came up with it myself and please do not accuse me of plagiarism) is that on the front side (thanks to the recessed purl loop) the cast-on row for the edge is not visible, but on the reverse side a very convenient chain of cast-on stitches
Now we take a circular knitting needle 1-1.5 sizes larger than we knitted the main fabric (in my case, I knitted with a 3-knit, but I cast on 4.5 knitting needles, 80 cm fishing line, ADDI-click). This is done so that the canvas does not tighten and looks neat. Next, we put on the knitting needle the half-loop of the knit chain closest to the edge. Like this:
We attach the thread and knit with front and back rows to the desired height (i.e. when the knitted strip is equal in height to the edge of the product):
Without breaking the thread, we lift the chain from the front side of the product by the outer loops along the entire height of the product and close it in a circle.
We knit another 4-5 circular front rows (about 1-1.5 cm) necessary for sewing in the lock and close the loops with a crochet hook. Use a larger hook to avoid pulling the edge again.
