Project on the topic of national clothing of the Yakuts. How to sew a Yakut dress Khaladai

Topic: “Yakut national clothing” Work completed by: 4B class student Petrova Liza. Head: Kalacheva L.V. Goal: to study Yakut national clothing and learn how to sew it yourself in the future. Objectives: 1. Determine the role and place of clothing in the ritual culture of the people; 2. Study the customs and traditions of the Sakha people; 3. Introducing to national culture. Relevance. The topic is relevant because we live in Yakutia and I want to introduce my peers to the traditions and clothing of the Yakuts. The role and place of clothing in the ritual culture of a people The clothing of any people shows its habitat, culture and religion. The whole life of the Yakuts was closely connected with the environment: they obtained food, clothing, and tools from it. Therefore, according to their concepts, the main thing was Nature, then Deities, and only then Man. Totemism Among the Yakuts, like many peoples, totemism was widespread - the deification of animals. Thus, among our ancestors, the bear, wolf, horse, raven, lion, swan, and eagle were considered sacred. For example, this can be seen in a hat with horns and a wolf's muzzle. According to time and changes in lifestyle, Yakut clothing can be divided into two groups: Traditional Yakut clothing (until the mid-18th century). Traditional Yakut clothing (from the mid-18th century to the 20th century). Traditional Yakut clothing until the mid-18th century. This is the period of the dawn of national culture. There is a great connection between clothing and religion: horned headdresses, tangalay sleeveless vests, etc. Clothing was made mainly from natural materials - leather, suede, pet fur. The main type of economic activity of the Yakuts was herd horse breeding and cattle breeding. Skins of fur-bearing animals were used for additional insulation in winter products, mainly as a finish. Women's outerwear with beaded trim (cloth). Men's warm camisole (cloth, fur, beads) For many nations, the cut of products is based on a straight cut. Traditional Yakut cut is no exception. Thus, everyday products mainly have a straight cut waist and sleeves. Women's clothing of this cut, unlike men's, is decorated either with welted leather stripes along the yoke or with beaded and fur stripes along the edges of the side and hem. Sleeveless vest “Son-tangalay” This clothing is associated with the cult of the swan. This is a small-volume product made of rodg with fur trim. It was carefully kept and passed on as a great value. I only wore it married woman . These clothes were also used as funeral clothes, according to the Yakuts, the soul of a deceased person went through a thorny path, so the clothes had to be durable. For this, the tangalay son was decorated with copper and silver plaques and beads on the front and back. Traditional Yakut clothing from the mid-18th century to the 20th century. National clothing is undergoing great changes due to the development of contacts and trade with other peoples. Elements of European clothing appear: collar, pocket, puffs and cuffs. But the traditional connection with belief still remains. Elegant demi-season coat (“kytyylaakh dream”), 2nd half of the 19th century. Made of cloth with red and black trim. Metal plates are sewn along the seam lines. Decorative elements in the form of diamonds made of fabric are sewn at chest level. The length of the product is up to the middle of the calf. Complex cut - usually the waist is widened towards the bottom, the sleeves are gathered along the edge. This sleeve is shaped like a “buff,” the Yakuts borrowed it from Russian urban clothing, as well as turn-down collars. Buuktaakh dream Fur coat with fur trim. It was worn by the bride, women during various rituals, and the blessing on Ysyakh. This fur-lined dream was made of red, black and green cloth or colored brocade Diabak Diabak - a headdress. Headdresses are closely associated with ritual rites, such as the birth of a child, the worship of Bayanai - the Master of the taiga, and hunting. Ornament Yakut ornament is extremely diverse in its composition, including both simple geometric and complex floral ornamental motifs. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that it reflects the main occupation of the people - cattle breeding. A special group of Yakut ornaments consists of simple lines, circles and semi-circles, arcs, rhombuses, triangles, squares, dotted lines, dots, crosses and grids. Among the most characteristic motifs is the curvilinear ornament. . The lyre-shaped pattern is widespread in places where horse breeding is developed. That is why it is the main design in saddle cloths, kychym. The name and appearance are similar to koumiss dishes “koger”. The ornament in the form of the sun is one of the most iconic ornaments among the Yakuts. It shows the Yakuts’ admiration for the sun and is therefore depicted in many items: in belts, back and chest decorations, in the “diabak” hat, etc. Jewelry Metal jewelry is an important part of the Yakut costume. Unlike other peoples, most Yakut jewelry was worn over winter fur clothing (belts, hryvnias, chest and back jewelry). Metal decorations are divided into removable and sew-on (badges, pendants for clothing decoration). Underwear is especially decorated with silver pendants and beads: ritual pants, leggings, natazniks, a ritual belt with bells, a loincloth with flowing metal pendants, beaded jewelry. The meaning of color in clothing The entire way of life and economic activity of the Yakuts was closely connected with Mother Nature. Therefore, the colors of their clothes reflect the natural palette - the colors of the earth, sky, plants, sun and snow, colors that are always harmonious, pleasing to the eye with freshness and beauty. Ysyakh Today national costume developed and became rich... Coming to Ysyakh in national costumes is becoming fashionable and relevant. Conclusion National clothing that has come down to us tells about the time and place of its origin, reflects its environment, culture and religion.

Republic of Sakha (Yakutia)

Suntarsky ulus (district)

MBOU "Kempendyai Secondary School named after V.I. Ivanov"

Technology lesson, 10th grade

The topic of the conversation is “Yakut national costume”

technology teacher and

fine arts

MBOU "Kempendyai Secondary School named after. V.I.Ivanova"

With. Kempendiai

Every year, interest in the history of one’s national culture, the unique values ​​of spiritual andmaterial heritage. Undoubtedly, folk costume is a striking marker of the culture of any nation. With its expressive form, functionality, and methods of material processing, clothing carries information about culture and worldview. Each era forms its own culture, and each culture develops its own ideal, reflected in the symbolism and semantics of folk costume, on the basis of which the forms and types of modern national clothing are created.

In the old days, folk (traditional) clothing of the Yakuts, being an integral part of the material environment, was at the same time connected with the spiritual culture of the people. In particular, with mythological and religious ideas reflected in the semantics of clothing. The Yakut costume, which was worn for various celebrations and rituals, is not only an integral harmonious ensemble endowed with utilitarian and aesthetic functions, but also acts as the main ritual element in the attributes of all ritual actions. Thus, the costume is endowed with a high semiotic status.

The formation of clothing of any people occurs under the influence of their traditional culture, which is reflected in the cultural and artistic features of the costume. Folk clothing The Yakuts, being an important historical and cultural source, reflects the aesthetic ideal of the people, their spiritual views and their worldview. From this point of view, Yakut clothing has always attracted the attention of early researchers of the material and spiritual culture of the ethnic group and continues to be of great interest to modern ethnographers, cultural scientists, and art historians.

According to the custom of many nations, people came to holidays dressed in their best outfits. In the old days, the Yakut holiday Ysyakh was the only holiday of communication, for which both old and young from remote areas gathered at the appointed time, therefore both the wealthy and the poor tried to dress in their best attire. We prepared for the holiday for a long time. The craftsmen took care of the colorful decoration of the horse and other equipment, the old men made special kumys vessels and ritual utensils, the women sewed elegant clothes for themselves and their families ahead of time.

Ancient Sakha clothing is the same cut for men, women and children. It differed only in size, length of the hem, and decorative decoration. Important role At the same time, the material and manufacturing technique played a role, changing depending on the level of development of production. A feature of traditional clothing is its convenience, practicality and expediency in execution from the point of view of climatic conditions, economic and household features of the lifestyle, as well as ease of manufacture. It should be noted the wealth of raw materials for various types clothing and costume attributes among the Yakuts (for example, summer hats, khappar bags, gloves were sewn from bull bladder; accessories in the form of pouches were made from cow offal after appropriate dressing, etc.).

INXVIIV. Women, like men, did not have underwear; in the summer they wore caftan-like coats made of finely lined rovduga, decorated with beaded stripes and appliquéd leather. In winter, they wore the same caftans, insulated with a fur lining made from the skins of squirrels, ermine, fox, arctic fox and wolf bellies and paws. Only the more prosperous could afford shirts made from Chinese daba or other fabric.

The first Russian people who arrived in the 30sXVIIin. to the territory of Yakutia, they were found as an elegant fur coat, so this elegant sleeveless jacket was exclusively the bride’s wedding clothing, which was sewn for a very long time. In ancient times, according to custom, the daughter-in-law had to show herself to the groom's relatives for the first three years, wearing nothing less than a tanalai sleeveless vest.

Complex of clothes of the Yakut bride of the endXVII– startedXVIIIV. looked like this: a fur dress over it, a tangalay fur vest. This wedding fur coat was made from expensive sable and beaver furs, and was richly decorated with beads and metal plaques. An attribute of such a sleeveless fur vest is the nataz decorations ettuximege. They were decorated with beads, beads, plaques or leather stripes and a set of pendants consisting of a tubular pincushion, a purse for small things (happar), a tinderbox with a flint (kyalyk) and a talisman amulet.

For festive and winter clothes Expensive materials are used - cloth, velvet, corduroy, brocade, silk. It is decorated with more complex ornaments and various accessories. However, the change in texture affected only the finishing; men's camisoles and women'ssangyahi have not lost their general appearance and style. The slits on camisoles and fur coats disappeared, they were replaced by a wide flat fold; ancient ceremonial hatsyay hats, hats with horns and plumesnoogaidaah hat, hatwith horns . They were replaced by cone-shaped hatsDiabak.

For the rich, fur coats are often sewn with the fur on the outside from expensive fox, beaver and lynx furs on a cloth lining, usually of a very bright color. There are several types of lynx fur: ash-blue, spotted and reddish-brown. An expensive, elegant fur coat was made from spotted lynx, since such fur was considered the most valuable. On the back of the fur coat, near the shoulder blades, crescent-shaped inserts made of river beaver or otter fur are always embroidered. The Yakut woman puts on this fur coat not only in winter, but also in summer, when a wedding or feast takes place at this time of year.

Women's suit, which was particularly expressive, was a single ensemble consisting of a pointed headdress, loose-fitting outerwear and soft leather shoes with a pointed toe. Decorative finishing played an important role in the design: bright inserts of brocade and silk, beaded embroidery, metal plaques, gold and silver embroidery.

An elegant waist garment is a legguardbelapchi, which was worn by both men and women.

Traditional clothing consists of four components: color, material, shape and design. These components are also divided into four main elements: red, yellow, green, black, which are the primary colors, the remaining shades are obtained by mixing them.

Around the turn of the 18th -19th centuries. with the arrival of the Russians, manufactured fabrics appeared. Underwear clothing began to spread. The Yakut costume is complemented by decorations and trimmings in green, red, yellow, purple flowers and their combinations. There are new types of female and men's clothing. For festive winter clothing, expensive materials are used - cloth, velvet, corduroy, brocade, silk. They are decorated with more complex ornaments and various accessories.

At the end XIX - early XX, Russian goods - cotton and linen fabrics, cloth, English-made fabrics - chintz - were widely used. Calico, canvas. Winter fur coats began to be covered with cloth or velvet. Multi-colored tinsel, gold embroidery or silver thread are increasingly being used in the decoration of clothing. Expensive fabrics were used for festive or weekend clothes: cloth, velvet, velvet, silk, brocade, Chinese.

New types of headdresses (hats, caps, kubankas) are appearing.

In the second half of the 20th century, the Yakuts of the central uluses most often used elk rovduga, squirrel and fox fur as clothing materials, and the Vilyuiskys used deer rovduga, fox and arctic fox fur. The modern national costume is the second “I” of its owner. In style, image, level, it must fully correspond to the individual qualities of its owner and reveal his essence. Since the beginning of the 20th century, traditional clothing has been completely replaced by urban clothing. Natural raw materials (fur, skins) are used to make shoes and hats. Despite the widespread use of European clothing and footwear, Russian shoes practically never go out of use. Hunting and festive clothing is still traditional.

Conclusion

At the end In the 20th century, national clothing began to actively revive. A new direction of clothing is emerging: stylized, stage. Folk craftsmen are reconstructing ancient types of clothing and are actively promoting them among the population and outside the republic. Due to the special cut and style features, national clothing has become a kind of calling card of the republic/

Folk costume Today it exists in three directions:

Traditional Sakha clothing intended for ritual and festive occasions. The craftswomen of this trend adhere to sustainable style traditions. Decor and color scheme. The continuity of folk sewing traditions is continued in their works by Z. Ponokhova, V. Makarova, Z. Zabolotskaya and others.

The work of folk craftswoman V. Makarova Coat. "kytyylaah dream"

Work by V. Makarova Bride's outfit

The second direction is related to the modeling of modern national clothing using modern national clothing using new technologies. In this direction, folk craftsmen collaborate with designers and fashion designers. At the same time, there is a mixture of folklore and professional forms of culture.

Work of folk craftswoman Z. Ponokhova V. National Yakut clothing

Work by Z. Ponokhovawedding clothes

The third direction is formed in a professional stage environment. It does not arise on an everyday basis through the development of local traditions. It is stage clothing intended for folklore and ethnographic performances. Dance and vocal groups, as well as for individual pop performers and artists of the Yakut stage

A. Filippovaartist-designer Avant-garde costume “Cholbon”

A. Filippova artist-designer Costume “Aiyy-Kuo”

National clothing has become a full-fledged component of modern culture. A new breath is given to this cultural phenomenon, when the unique genre of Yakut traditional culture, the epic olonkho, was recognized by UNESCO as one of the world masterpieces of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity. In this regard, the national holiday “YYYAH” began to be held throughout the republic, the main goal of which is to revive, first of all, the ritual and ceremonial function. Within the framework of such mass entertainment activities, one of the tasks is to promote Yakut national clothes

Used literature:

Ammosova E.E. Folk origins of creativity. - Yakutsk: Publishing house “Bichik”, 1994. 91 p., 83 ill.

2. Gavripeva P.S. Clothing of the Sakha people from the late 17th to mid-18th centuries. - Novosibirsk:

"Science". Siberian Enterprise RAS, 1998. - 144 p.

3. Garin N.P. Design for conditions Far North(the principle of cultural continuity

4. Gogolev A.I. Yakuts (problems of ethnogenesis and formation of culture). - Yakutsk:

Publication of the magazine “Ilin”, 1993. - 151 p.

5. Ermilova D.Yu. Ecological direction in fashion design / Design problems

costumes and ways of their research: Sat. scientific tr. / Under the general editorship of Ph.D., Associate Professor

G.M.Guseinova. - M.: Department of Costume Design, 1997.-P. 12-39

6. Kalashnikova N.M. Folk costume. - M.: “Svarog and K”, 2002. - 374 p.

7. Kalashnikova N.M. Traditional costume peoples of Russia 19-20 centuries. - St. Petersburg: 1996. -134

8. Maak R.K. Vilyuisky district. - 2nd ed., - M.: “Yana”, 1994. - 592 s.

9. Heystroev B.F. Sakha ornament. - Djokuuskai k.: “Printing specialist” YANTSSO AS USSR,

1989. 98p.

10. Nosov M.M. Evolutionary development of Yakut clothing from the end of the XVIII to the 1920s

/Sat. scientific Art. YKM. - Yakutsk: Book. publishing house, 1957. - Issue 2. - P. 116. -152

11. Osipova M. Yakut wedding clothing. - Yakutsk: Yakut University, 1974.-38 p.

12. Petrov N.E. From ancient history Sakha people. - Yakutsk: NKI “Bichik”, 2003.-114 p.

13. Petrova S.I. Ritual clothing of the Sakha people (ethnography, ethnology and anthropology):

14. Petrova S.I. Wedding outfit Yakuts: traditions and reconstruction - Novosibirsk:

Science, 2006. - 104 p.

15. Petrova S.I. 0buge tanaouonnaitegele (Traditional clothing and worldview

our ancestors). Educational and methodological manual. - Yakutsk: Bichik, 1999 - 80 e., ill.

16. Savvinov I.E. Obugelerbitolokhtorodyakhtara. - Yakutsk: Book. ed., 1992.-40p.

National clothing is formed under the influence of several factors. Climate, life, faith and other life nuances are important. Yakut costume is designed for cold climates. Some elements of national clothing were taken from other peoples, but this does not make the costume lose its originality.

Yakuts live in Yakutia and the Krasnodar region. Small national communities live in the Amur region. The Yakuts also live on the territory of Magadan and Sakhalin.

The first national costume appeared in the 18th century. He represented outerwear with real fur and some decorative elements(embroidery, metal parts). Then coarse fabrics, furs, leather, silk were used.

The Yakuts were mainly engaged in cattle breeding, so they used genuine leather, suede and fur. Usually, short-haired animals were “exploited,” but the fur of long-haired animals was also used for insulation.

Important! Long-haired fur was used for decorative purposes, decorating the collar, cuffs, and the general perimeter of the outfit.

Features of styles

The national cut of the Yakut dress is a straight silhouette with similar sleeves. But there are several options for making the costume. Yakut clothing items:

Each style is characterized by bright decorations. Thus, the tanalai was decorated with a metal pendant, which was placed on the belt. For the cut of kytyylaakh in women's attire, red color in embroidery dominated. The men's suit was treated with duller shades.

What does a woman's suit consist of?

Women's and men's suits had the same cut. They only differed decorative finishing. A Yakut woman's wardrobe must include annakh. It was a piece of fabric that ladies used to cover their faces. Materials for women's outfits:

IN women's wardrobe there was a coarse shirt, leather trousers (the element protected the pelvic region), leggings, a fur coat, a hat and a large amount of jewelry. Leggings are leather leg warmers without a foot. The traditional Yakut hat resembled a helmet (as in the photo). Jewelry was of the greatest value. Women richly decorated all parts of the outfit. Beaded trim is still popular.

Men's suit: details

The men's attire was modest when compared with the women's. Everyday clothing was trimmed with fur on the cuffs and collar. The finishing was quite voluminous. The headdress had to be practical, covering the ears from the cold. The hat resembled a helmet. You can often see ears on national hats, which are associated with cosmic communications.

Children's costumes

Children's clothing is a mini copy of adult outfits. The same materials and fabrics are used to make it: skin, fur, rich decor, beadwork. The headdress is trimmed with fur.

Modern Yakut costume

A modern suit is made from different materials. Light fabrics such as chiffon, silk, and satin are actively used. Organza, brocade, and suede are popular. Clothes must include natural fur and rich decor.. The outfit is decorated with beads, metal elements, and bright rhinestones.

IN modern world There are many technologies that help reinterpret the national dress. Luxurious decoration looks fabulous, as interesting styles and a bright palette of colors are used. It looks stylish, but has no historical background.

Important! When creating costumes, designers focus on fairy-tale characters, so the clothes are not historically accurate.

National costumes are worn for holidays, ceremonies, and rituals. Some elements are combined with modern outfits. Actively used natural furs and beadwork.

Clothes were made from natural materials (hide, leather, fur); only in rare cases were manufactured cotton, silk, and wool fabrics exchanged for livestock used.

Both women and men wore fur coats made of cloth or suede, lined with squirrel fur (hare fur among the poor). Without folds or pockets, with a slit at the back and narrow sleeves, trimmed along the hem with otter or beaver fur, the fur coat reached to the knees. The middle peasants sewed elegant sanyakh fur coats most often from wolf fur, the poor - the skins of young horses and reindeer, the rich could afford sables. The sanyakh is wider and longer than the isteeh son.

Upper women's clothing– a long fur coat, sanyakh, was made from wolverine, wolf, fox, and sable skins, with the fur facing out. A fur coat (with a fur insert in the form of bird wings on the back) was necessarily part of the bride’s wedding clothing. Apparently, the fur coat was men's fishing clothing, because... There was a slit at the back, made for ease of riding. After changing the style of hunting clothing, the long-brimmed fur coat with an eagle became exclusively women's clothing.

Over the fur coat (c) they wore a fur coat (d) or dokha made of wolf, fox, lynx or deer fur. The shoulder garment (shirt) was made of fabric or rovduga (suede made from deerskin).

Clothes below the waist consisted of trousers or fur pads and leggings (knee pads) replacing them with the hair outward.

Dance costume

The source of the dance costumes was ancient Yakut ritual clothing. The costume consists of a dress, top, shorts and leggings. The costume is complemented by a headdress with ears and feathers. The dress is made of chiffon blue color. Top, shorts and leggings are made of natural suede. The sleeve of the top is made of ermine fur. The costume is richly embroidered with beads, decorated with beads and cupronickel plaques.

Representative clothing model "Tuyaryma".

High boots and torbasa.

The entire way of life and economic activity of the Yakuts were closely connected with Mother Nature. Therefore, the colors of the earth, sky, plants, sun and snow, colors are always harmonious, pleasing to the eye with freshness and simplicity. The awakening of the nature of summer, the spring blossoming and autumn withering of plants, the rising and setting of the sun - all this was reflected in the patterns embroidered by our ancestors, where white, black, blue, light blue, green and red colors predominated.

Types of Yakut ornaments used in sewing. In the material culture of the Yakuts, all ornaments applied to products have their own sacred meaning. The favorite patterns-signs in traditional sewing were floral and geometric: a straight line, a double-sided zigzag motif, a heavenly ornamental motif, an arrow-shaped motif, a heart-shaped motif, a circle, and protective signs.