The monstera flower attracts with its grandeur and mystery. The name itself even sounds somewhat intimidating, as some people think. Monstera does not come from the word "monster", but from the word monstruosus, which is Latin for "bizarre".

Monstera flower in the photo

Monstera is an ornamental deciduous plant from the araceae family. The genus of these flowers is represented by perennial herbaceous vines with thick stems, very large leaves and one single inflorescence that resembles an ear of corn under a white blanket. When it ripens, it turns into a berry, and an edible one at that.

Where does the monstera flower grow?

Under natural conditions, the monstera plant grows in the tropics of Mexico and Guatemala. In the 19th century, it was brought to Southeast Asia, where it also successfully took root. In nature, this is a huge evergreen vine with large, spreading leaves that hang down like a large fan.

At home, it is customary to grow attractive Monstera.

Monstera, home care

Monstera is very unpretentious in care. The main task of the owners is to try to bring the conditions of keeping the tropical guest as close as possible to its natural habitat. Monstera tolerates even strong deviations from optimal conditions. The only way it can react to a change of environment or the forgetfulness of its owners is to stop blooming. This is not a significant loss, since all its beauty is not in flowering.

• It's best to put flower pot with monstera in warm rooms facing east and west.
• Monstera is unpretentious to light. It grows well even in partial shade. However, only with sufficient diffused lighting will the leaves be lush green and crisp. If the plant is constantly in the shade, then the crown becomes smaller. In winter, the plant requires additional lighting, otherwise the monstera will stop growing.
• Optimal temperature content - 18 degrees. Precise temperature control is not required, since Monstera tolerates climate fluctuations well and is not afraid of drafts.
• Since Monstera is a tropical plant, it loves water. Abundant watering is allowed. Do not over-moisten the soil. It will be enough to water once every 4 days.
• Spraying is a mandatory element of flower care. It is advisable to periodically wash the leaves or wipe them with a damp cloth.
• Feeding is carried out depending on the condition of the flower. As a rule, the best time for feeding is considered to be March-September, during the period of active growth.
• Monstera needs support, as it can bend or break under the weight of the leaves.
• The flower develops better in free soil. This will allow the adventitious roots to take root better.
• It is important to replant young individuals that are less than 4 years old every year. Plants older than 5 years are replanted every 4 years.

Video: Monstera care

Monstera flower: propagation at home

Monstera is propagated by lateral shoots in March - June, apical and stem cuttings, which take root at high temperature(up to 25 degrees).

Propagation by cuttings

Held between March and June. The side branches or top of the plant are cut off. It is important that the cut section contains one mature leaf and aerial roots. It is better to cut short cuttings, they give roots faster. The cut areas are sprinkled with crushed coal.

The cuttings are rooted in prepared soil or (temporarily) in a mixture of peat and sand. Do not put the cuttings in water.

Monstera is a beautiful tropical plant that will bring comfort to your apartment. Whether it's worth becoming its owner is up to you to decide.

The tropical evergreen plant Monstera (Monstera) or philodendron belongs to the Araceae family. The monstera's homeland is equatorial America; in the 19th century, the vine was brought to Southeast Asia, where it successfully took root. There are fifty species of this plant in the world.

Thanks to large carved leaves, up to half a meter long and unpretentiousness of home cultivation, Monstera holds a leading position in popularity among indoor flowers.

Description

In the wild, monstera can grow up to ten meters, clinging to large trees and rocks with a flexible and powerful stem. When grown indoors, the flower reaches 2–4 m in height and requires reliable support.

Long aerial roots grow on the stem, reminiscent of the tentacles of an ancient monster. Creepy appearance plants doomed it to a silent name - monstera (monster), and many myths and legends associated with the flower.

Shiny dark green leathery leaves sit on long petioles. They are covered with oblong slits. Often, drops of moisture appear on the leaf plate, which makes the plant seem to be “crying.”

Monstera blooms with inconspicuous grayish flowers collected in an inflorescence - a thick spadix surrounded by a creamy blanket.

Monstera Attractive (Delicacy) has gained great popularity in indoor floriculture. The plant grows up to 200 cm in height, has large leaves with holes, heart-shaped.

Note. Fruits with Monstera Deliciosa seeds set and ripen at home extremely rarely. But, if this happens, they can be eaten. They taste like pineapple.

Below are photos of the flower, different varieties of monstera.

Types of monstera for growing in pots:

Location

For placement indoor flower, choose a spacious and bright room, because Monstera needs good lighting and sufficient ceiling height to grow upward.

The flower does not withstand direct rays of the sun; delicate foliage receives serious burns in the sun. But you shouldn’t keep a tropical liana in the shade either. A good place to install a tub with a flower is not far from the eastern or western windows, ideally in a spacious and bright hall or winter garden. Often the flower is placed in the dining room or kitchen, as its positive effect on air purification has been proven.

Comfortable ambient temperature for the vine is about +18 degrees. An increase in temperature to 24 and above leads to the active growth of monstera, which is undesirable at home.

Soil

Monstera prefers to grow in loose and fertile soil. The composition of the mixture should include: 1 part each of coarse sand (vermiculite), peat, humus and 3 parts of good turf soil.

The flower needs large volumes of soil. Young plants are placed in 8 - 10 liters of soil; after 4 years, the flower requires about 30 liters of soil. A layer of expanded clay or broken brick must be poured onto the bottom of the tubs as drainage. The presence of drain holes in the bottom of the pot is necessary.

Care

Among indoor plants brought from the tropics, Monstera is known for its love of moisture. In the spring-summer period, it is necessary to water the flower often and abundantly, but without allowing moisture to stagnate in the pan. Water for the plant should be at room temperature, not hard. At home, tap water is settled or filtered. Watering with rain or melt water has a good effect. In the cold season, monstera is watered less often, once a week is enough.

The wide leaves of the plant must be regularly wiped from dust with a damp sponge or cloth. It is useful to spray the whole plant warm water. When the central heating is on and the air in the apartment becomes too dry, wide containers filled with water are placed near the plant. A small decorative fountain looks aesthetically pleasing.

A large plant needs strong support. A decorative but strong lattice or trellis is attached to a pot or wall near the flower tub.

An adult monstera is fed twice a month in the spring-summer season. Organic fertilizers (a solution of chicken manure or mullein in low concentration) alternate with mineral complexes.

When the plant reaches the height required by the grower, the top of the flower can be cut off. This operation will give impetus to the development of side branches, the monstera will become more magnificent.

Important! The aerial roots of Monstera cannot be cut off! They are either lowered into a flower pot so that the plant receives additional nutrition, or placed in jars of water suspended on branches. Sometimes the roots are immersed in small plastic tubes filled with a mixture of peat and turf soil. The tubes are stuck into the pot.

Young plants, up to 4 years of age, are transplanted into new large containers annually. For adult specimens, only replace the top layer of soil with fresh soil.

At ideal conditions, starting from the age of two, monstera can bloom. Its inflorescences are similar to calla lilies, only much larger. After flowering, many small fruits filled with seeds ripen on the cob.

Pests, diseases

Despite the unpretentiousness of the plant, the gardener needs to know what problems he may encounter when growing monstera. The flower can be affected by pests such as mealybugs. As a rule, too dry indoor air contributes to the spread of pests.

Pests are controlled by using a cool shower, wiping the leaves and branches with a sponge dipped in a soap solution, tincture of garlic or tobacco. If the pest multiplies strongly, use Actellik (2 ml per liter), Fitoverm, Decis, Inta-Vir.

Important! When spraying a plant with chemicals, you need to take care of protection by working in a respirator and gloves. It is better to cover the flower with a piece of film so that the poison does not enter the air in the room.

Often a gardener notices that monstera leaves turn yellow and dry out. There may be several reasons for this:

• excess moisture in the soil at low air temperatures (too frequent watering in winter time);
• lack of moisture and too dry air;
• the leaf has received sunburn (as a rule, these are local yellowed and drying spots).

Correct the situation by eliminating the causes of the disease. At the same time, drying and falling off of the old lower foliage is a natural process if the foliage does not dry out en masse.

Reproduction

The plant can be propagated using seeds and vegetatively. Monstera seeds are sown in loose and fertile soil (sand, peat, humus), only lightly sprinkled with soil. Pots with crops are left at +25 degrees in a bright room. Shoots will appear in a month.

Seedlings are cared for in the standard way: watered, loosened the soil, protected from drafts, and replanted.

Note. The first leaves of Monstera are not dissected. Real, holey leaves characteristic of the plant will appear only by the 5th month of the flower’s life.

In spring (until June), monstera can be propagated:

1. side branches with leaves;
2. the top of the stem remaining from trimming the flower;
3. cuttings (part of a stem with a pair of leaves).

Cuts of monstera branches are sprinkled with crushed charcoal and dried a little in air. The cuttings are planted in separate pots with light soil (peat and humus + sand), covered on top plastic bottles, glass jars or a simple transparent bag.

The plants are ventilated and watered daily. They are kept in diffused light and at a temperature of +22 +24 degrees. When the seedlings take root, the monstera is transplanted into another container with richer soil (the proportion of humus increases).

Partners

The eerie appearance of the monstera has long deterred flower lovers from placing the plant in residential premises. Monstera was housed in greenhouses, winter gardens, hospitals and offices. There are quite a few superstitions about the supposedly heavy energy of the plant. Monstera is called a flower - energy vampire. Ivy and ficus trees also found themselves in the same company. It was believed that these flowers, being in the bedroom or other rooms, provoke quarrels in the family.

Fortunately, in modern world, there is less and less room for superstitions. Monstera is confidently becoming one of the most indoor plants. A large, bright green plant purifies indoor air or microorganisms; the sight of large, spreading foliage is calming.

Monstera pots are placed on the floor or low stands, always providing support for the winding stem. The flower looks impressive against the background of a light wall, in a room with a minimalist design.

Monstera can be included in a composition of tropical plants with different foliage textures: large ficus trees. The main thing is to match the size of the partners; a giant monstera will visually “crush” delicate orchids or small-leaved ivy.

Watch also the video

Monstera is a beautiful and very impressive plant. Many florists fell in love with it for its unusual shapes and its unpretentiousness in terms of care. In the wild, this perennial plant is found in Central and South America, but today we will look at Monstera as a houseplant and figure out how to care for it at home.

Monstera description of a tropical plant

Monstera belongs to the genus Araceae. In total, there are about fifty plants in this family that are different in shape, structure and height. Monstera has creeping aerial stems, from which aerial roots sometimes hang, and a thick spadix creates the inflorescence of the plant.

The leaves of the flower are dark green and shine in the sun. At a certain stage of growth, holes form in them, which then turn into slits. The leaf shape of almost all varieties is oval-heart-shaped, and their size can reach 90 cm in length. Monstera blooms can be seen in the wild, as this happens very rarely at home.

Monstera differs from other indoor plants in its rapid growth, which is why it requires a lot of space. It can be a wonderful decoration for heated winter gardens, where the plant feels just great. It can also be found in many offices and country houses.

Did you know? The name of the flower comes from the Latin word monstrosus (amazing, bizarre), although some florists claim that the name comes from the word monstrum (monster).

Features of growing monstera at home

All indoor plants have their own growing characteristics, and Monstera is no exception in this regard (that is, caring for the plant and its cultivation must be carried out in accordance with established requirements). At home, they often grow delicious or attractive Monstera.

Choosing a location for successful growth

The best place to plant a plant such as monstera is a special stand. It should be located on the western or eastern side of the window. However, it is worth protecting the flower from drafts so as not to provoke the appearance of diseases. Also, you should not frequently move it from place to place. Monstera does not really like direct exposure to sunlight, so it should not be placed on an overly lit windowsill: the lighting should be average. The sun can burn the flower, which leads to the formation of dark spots, and as a result, the death of the plant.

Requirements for soil and container for planting

For normal flower development, it is necessary to pay attention to the soil. Most often, it is bought in a store, but you can cook it yourself.

Soil for monstera must contain the following components:

• turf land;
• peat;
• humus;
• leaf soil;
• sand.

All these components should be taken in the proportion 3:1:1:1:1. Such soil will absorb water well and allow air to pass through. When choosing a pot for planting a flower, you need to take into account the maximum parameters of the future plant. In a large pot, Monstera will quickly strengthen the root system and begin to develop soon, but as soon as the plant reaches a large size, the roots begin to curl and wrap around in a circle. To prevent the monstera from strangling itself, during the process of replanting it is necessary to untangle and trim off excess roots. If this is not done, the flower may dry out.

It is better to take a pot larger than the previous one by 2-4 cm in diameter. It must be stable and heavy.

Important! To support the monstera, you should use special tubes that are covered with artificial moss. This way they will not disturb the decorative appearance of the plant.

How to plant a monstera at home: propagation of a tropical liana

In order for Monstera to grow well and develop, it must be provided correct landing and care. Place drainage 5 cm thick at the bottom of the pot, then fill the container with soil to ½ of its volume, then carefully place the plant without damaging its root system, and fill it with the remaining soil. At the end of planting, the flower is watered well.

Monstera can and should be propagated, and the methods of its propagation are listed below.

Method 1. Monstera propagation by air layering

Each cutting must contain at least one aerial root and one leaf. The cuttings are moved to a separate container with a nutrient substrate, thoroughly watered and grown separately. Young cuttings are grown in the same way as the monstera itself at a temperature of +18...+20°C, in diffused light and in a draft-free room.

Method 2. Propagation by cuttings

This method is the most labor-intensive. To achieve a good result, you should use stem or lateral shoots. You can make your own soil mixture for germinating cuttings. To do this, you will need sand and humus in equal quantities, but do not forget about drainage. The selected cutting is placed in a pot, sprinkled with soil mixture and watered heavily. After this, you need to cover the pot with glass and place it in a lighted place, but not in the sun. Watering the plantings should be done twice a day. After the first roots appear, the plant should be transplanted into a separate pot and grown, following all the rules.

Method 3. Propagation by seeds

This propagation method is the most practical, but also the longest. First of all, you will need fresh seeds, which need to be planted in a nutrient mixture and germinate in comfortable conditions for 30 days. The optimal temperature for seed germination is at least +20°C, and the lighting should be shaded. After a month, the first shoots will begin to appear, and young plants with approximately 9-10 leaves can be seen after 2 years. Monstera grown in this way is considered the strongest and hardiest.

How to care for monstera at home

As mentioned earlier, Monstera is a fairly unpretentious plant, but despite this, care (as well as reproduction) must be carried out taking into account a number of mandatory rules.

Watering a houseplant

Watering monstera is the most important stage in its development. She loves moisture very much, but the plant has a clear seasonality for watering the soil. From early spring to late autumn, the flower needs to be watered abundantly. However, the top layer of the substrate should dry out between waterings. If the plant is flooded, it will begin to lose its decorative effect, forming black spots, and in rare cases, the root system will begin to rot. During the winter season, watering should be reduced, but be careful not to dry out the monstera.

Water for irrigation should be at room temperature and stand for several days before use. The monstera also needs to be sprayed and regularly cleaned of dust.

Did you know? Monstera reacts to weather changes. Droplets are slowly forming at the edges of the leaves of the plant, which is why many florists say that the flower is crying in the rain.

Feeding monstera

All house plants need to be fed. If the monstera does not grow, it means it lacks nutrients. Therefore, in order not to slow down the growth of adult plants, they need to be fed twice a month. Mineral and organic fertilizers are suitable as feeding, although young flowers do not need to be fed.

Features of monstera pruning

In order to stimulate the growth of new leaves, it is necessary to trim the top. Do it early spring, and when pruning, at least three nodes should be left on the top cuttings. The longer the cutting, the more it will take root. The cut must be made at a distance of 1-2 cm from the flower node, and it must be straight. After pruning, the stem should be sprinkled with charcoal powder, and if the cutting needs to be rooted, then the lower cut is made oblique.

All about transplanting monstera

Monstera can be replanted as soon as it is one year old. Young flowers are moved to another place once a year: in the spring, at an air temperature of at least +16°C. A three-year-old monstera should be replanted once every two years, and a five-year-old monstera should be replanted once every 4 years.

For replanting, you should choose large pots. With each transplant, the size of the pot is increased by 2-4 cm. At the bottom of the container it is necessary to arrange drainage from shards, pebbles, broken tiles or coarse sand. A young flower needs slightly acidic or neutral soil, which consists of peat, deciduous, humus soil, turf and sand. For perennial monstera plants, acidic soil is good. In addition, it is worth installing a support in the center of the pot, which helps the plant maintain the necessary conditions for the development of both the flower and its aerial roots. When replanting, carefully remove the flower from the pot and move it to a new container, slowly covering it with soil. After this, fill the pot to the top with soil and water well.
Some flower lovers have a question: “How to transplant a monstera with aerial roots?” When replanting this way, it is necessary to carefully wrap the aerial roots with damp twine and attach them to the trunk. When they begin to sprout small roots, part of the plant trunk with leaves can be cut off and planted in a container, covering the cut site with earth. This way a new, young flower will grow.

Monstera was brought to us from the tropical forests of India, Central and South America. Under natural conditions, there are more than 50 species, but only four of them are grown as indoor plants, most often Monstera deliciosa and its varieties.

Monstera is a perennial evergreen climbing plant that grows up to 6 m and therefore needs support. The stem of Monstera is quite thick, dense with aerial roots. Young leaves are whole, become perforated with age, and then become completely cut. Monstera has interesting feature: after heavy watering or in cloudy weather, droplets of water appear on the leaves. In this way, it gets rid of excess moisture by squeezing it through special stomata.

To successfully breed monstera at home, you should know the basic rules of care, transplantation and reproduction.

Monstera: care

1. Location. Monstera prefers dim lighting, so it can be grown even in the shade. When choosing a place for it, you need to take into account that the leaves of the monstera always turn towards the light source, so it is better to place it in a corner near the window. The room temperature should be 20 - 25°C in summer, and not lower than 16°C in winter.
2. Watering. There is no clear schedule for how often the monstera should be watered; it depends on when the top layer of soil in the pot dries out. Watering should be carried out very abundantly with settled water at room temperature. In winter, the soil should be slightly moist, and in summer, Monstera should be sprayed 1-2 times a day and the leaves should be wiped with a damp sponge. If the room is dry, then the aerial roots need to be wrapped in moistened sphagnum moss.
3. Soil. To plant monstera, you need to take fertile and loose soil; a ready-made substrate for aroid or ornamental-leaved plants is suitable.
4. Transfer. Monstera transplants at home should be done quite often: in the first three years - 2 times a year, from 3 to 5 years - annually, and then - once every 2-3 years. When planting and replanting, you should definitely put it in a pot.
5. Top dressing. Monstera should be fed with fertilizer for ornamental foliage plants, Humisol and Epin according to the system: in summer - once a week, and in winter - 2-3 times a month. Foliar feeding should be carried out in the summer with Uchevin K-6.

There are several ways to propagate monstera:

• cuttings (the most common);
• aerial roots;
• seeds.

Monstera - diseases and problems

The most common fungal disease is stem rot, which can be identified by the rotting of the Monstera stem. Usually this disease appears in winter, with excess moisture and low temperature. Control measures include transplanting the plant into another pot, reducing watering and increasing the temperature in the room.

The main problem when growing monstera is yellowing of the leaves. In order to determine what to do with the plant, it is necessary to determine the reason why the monstera leaves turn yellow.

This may happen for the following reasons:

To solve this problem, it is enough to simply eliminate the mistakes in caring for the monstera that caused them to appear, and your beauty will delight you with new healthy, lush green leaves.

Aug 24 2017

Monstera - caring for a beauty with a scary name

Monstera is one of the most popular indoor plants. A beautiful evergreen vine with aerial roots and huge openwork dark green leaves on long petioles is grown by amateur flower growers at home as landscaping and interior decoration not only in apartments and houses, but also in the offices of reputable institutions and the lobbies of various administrative buildings. In this article you will find useful tips on caring for monstera and propagating in various ways.

Monstera belongs to the Araceae family. The plant's homeland is considered to be the tropical forests of South America and the West Indies. Now it can be found in the tropical jungles of southern Brazil, Mexico, and India, where it grows, twining around some tall host tree. Under natural conditions, it reaches enormous sizes - up to 50 m in length, its carved leaves reach a meter in width. To climb tall trees in the wild, Monstera grows strong and long aerial roots, which, descending from the branches, reach the ground. If the vine loses its connection with the ground, it’s okay - thanks to its aerial roots, it will attach itself to the tree trunk and become a plant without roots - an epiphyte.

Even at home, the vine grows up to 6 meters in height (length) within four to five years.

Monstera is stunning with its beauty

Monstera looks impressive. Huge fans of dissected dark green leaves and cords of aerial roots are its distinctive features. Young leaves of Monstera have whole leaf plates, over time they become full of holes, and in an adult specimen the leaves are completely cut. The leaves do not lag behind the stem and grow up to a meter in length and up to 50 cm in width. Not only the appearance of the leaf is interesting, but also its internal structure. The lateral veins of the leaf plate are equipped with special organs - hydriators. When air humidity increases, they release droplets of clear liquid. The plant seems to be crying. It has long been noticed that Monstera usually cries a day before rain, i.e. is a natural barometer.

Types of Monstera

About fifty species of monstera are known around the world. But only a few of them are grown at home. We will introduce you to them.

The leaves of Monstera deliciosa reach half a meter in width.

Monstera Deliciosa or Attractive (Monstera deliciosa) is the most popular type of plant. It is a fast-growing vine with dark green, pinnately dissected leaves in the shape of an elongated heart. This vine can grow up to 12 meters in height in the wild, but in indoor conditions it is less – three meters. Thick cylindrical stems are up to 7 cm in diameter. The leaves are leathery, also of impressive size - up to half a meter wide. In countries with tropical climates, it is grown for its fruits, which are eaten there. Under favorable conditions of its maintenance, Monstera can bloom in our apartments, giving its owner a fruit very similar in taste to a ripe pineapple. Basically, Monstera Deliciosa is used for decorating and landscaping indoor spaces.

Currently, breeders have developed variegated forms of this species:

Alba (white-and-white)
Marble
Borziga

• The variegated white-variegated form of Monstera, also called Alba, does not grow quickly and is rather capricious in its maintenance. But it has incredibly beautiful leaves. They are the same openwork, but also painted with white patterns that extend over half the sheet. With age, these white marks become more and more numerous. The stem of this Monstera is also multi-colored.
• Monstera marbled is a variegated form of Monstera (Monstera variegata), combines green and beige (yellow) coloring of leaves and stems.
• Monstera Borsiga (Monstera deliciosa borsigiana) is a compact vine with smaller leaves (up to 30 cm) and thin shoots. Convenient form for indoor growing. Propagated by seeds.

Adanson
Punched (holey)
Oblique (unequal)

• Monstera adansonii is a long vine, up to 8 m, with large thin ovoid leaves up to 50 cm in length, on which there are many chaotic small holes. It is just beginning to gain popularity among gardeners, although it grows successfully at home.
• Monstera perforated or perforated (Monstera pertusa) - this vine is large, with unequal, asymmetrically perforated lanceolate leaves up to 1 meter in length and 25 cm in width, expanding at the bottom.
• Monstera oblique or unequal-sided (Monstera obliqae) is a climbing vine with small (up to 20 cm in length and 5 cm in width) asymmetrical oval leaves on short, up to 12 cm, petioles. It is found in the apartments of amateurs, but is more often grown in greenhouses. It does not require support and can be grown in a hanging manner.

Dubia (doubtful)
Thin
Pointed

• Monstera dubia (dubia) is a rare variety of Monstera in the form of a miniature vine. Its leaves at a young age have solid plates with a silvery pattern along the veins and are similar to scindapsus leaves. As the leaves age, they become green and perforated. It is possible to grow without support, in the form of a hanging plant.
• Monstera acuminata is a compact indoor vine reaching three meters. The dense leaves are initially whole, with a sharp end. In an adult plant, small cuts appear on the leaves.
• Monstera slender is a rare vine. It's small. Its leaves are delicate and lacy. The young vine has heart-shaped leaves without cuts. In adult plants they are pinnately dissected. It grows very slowly. Does not require support, grows like a hanging plant.

Flowering Monstera

Monstera blooms in the wild

Under natural living conditions, the liana blooms with a large, up to 30 cm in height, yellowish or cream-colored inflorescence, similar to an ear of corn, covered with a petal-veil. After flowering, the fruit, the berry, ripens for about a year. Monstera deliciosa has edible fruit. The pulp inside is juicy, reminiscent of pineapple in taste.

Edible fruit of Monstera

In captivity, Monsteras bloom extremely rarely and do not bear fruit. Perhaps the vine needs more humid air to bloom. In addition, fertilizing contains nitrogen, which stimulates the formation of green mass of the plant to the detriment of flowering. But you shouldn’t be upset - the flowers of the vine are not as good as the leaves. And not everyone has the patience to wait for the fruit to ripen - it would be possible to taste the taste of Monstera berries only in a year.

The benefits and harms of the plant

Superstitious people are afraid to grow Monstera at home. It’s not for nothing, they say, that its name comes from the word monster, monstrosity. In the 18th century, when Europeans had just begun to settle in Latin America, rumors appeared that giant killer plants lived in the jungle. Pioneers found human and animal remains laced with the stems and roots of these vines. They believed that plants attack the living and kill them. But the truth was that this vine could easily grow through anyone who got lost and died in the jungle. It is believed that it was because of these tales that the innocent vine was named Monstera (monstrum), which means monster in Latin.

In other sources, the plant's name comes from another Latin word (monstrosus), which means bizarre or amazing. And this is more fair. Knowledgeable people and experienced flower growers are very fond of this miracle of nature. Monstera has a large number useful properties, which have a beneficial effect on the indoor microclimate. During the day, its large leaves release a lot of oxygen and promote the evaporation of moisture, thereby humidifying the air.

It has been proven that this tropical beauty vine absorbs harmful electromagnetic waves well, absorbs formaldehyde fumes and promotes ionization of indoor air. At the energetic level, Monstera helps people in making any important decisions. It puts thoughts in order, develops a person’s intellectual abilities, and strengthens his immunity. Helps you calm down and concentrate on work. Thanks to these properties, Monstera can often be found in offices and institutions, in home living rooms and libraries. But you shouldn’t place it in the bedroom. At night, the plant’s photosynthesis process stops, so it begins to absorb large amounts of oxygen—this is unacceptable for a bedroom. In other cases, Monstera creates comfort and harmony around itself. And there is no hassle with growing it; it is an extremely unpretentious plant.

Monstera and Philodendron. Similarities and differences.

Monstera is often confused with Philodendron with dissected leaves. They are close relatives, both from the Araceae family. Philodendron leaves are more elongated and pointed at the end. But the main difference is that these plants have different juices. In Monstera it is transparent, and in Philodendron it is milky. It’s easy to make sure which plant is in front of you - break off a piece of a leaf or cut a shoot.

Caring for Monstera at home

Caring for the plant will not cause any difficulties even for beginners. Useful tips, which we will now offer you, will help you independently care for Monstera and keep it healthy and attractive all year round.

Lighting

Monstera prefers bright but diffused light

Monstera prefers moderation in everything. It does not grow well in heavily shaded areas, but it will not survive in direct sunlight for long. Prefers bright but diffused light and partial shade. The best place for a pot with a plant is on a stand next to east or west windows. In southern directions, the monstera should be moved away from the window deeper into the room or shaded, especially at midday. Leaves may become burned, turn pale, or become covered yellow spots and will lose their attractiveness. Northern windows may not have enough natural light. You will notice this from the leaves - they will become smaller and smaller and without the openwork cuts so characteristic of Monstera. Move the flower to a more illuminated place or purchase a phytolamp or fluorescent lamp to provide additional lighting for the vine.

Flower location

Keep in mind that Monstera does not like to be moved from place to place. Immediately think about where it is best for it to grow. If you place a pot right in front of the windows, you will soon cease to distinguish anything beyond window glass. The leaves will unfold so much that they will cover most of the window, and sunlight will stop entering the room. It is better if you place a pot with a vine at a distance of one and a half meters from the window against the wall on some table, and behind it on the wall you organize additional, preferably fluorescent, lighting, which you will turn on if necessary.

Monstera takes up a lot of space

For an adult plant, you will probably need support or fastening to the wall. In nature, the liana finds its own support. It entwines tree trunks, climbing them with the help of aerial roots higher towards the sun. At home, you yourself must take care of support for a powerful pet. Otherwise, under the weight of its shoots and leaves, it will bend and break. Without support it will not be possible to grow a harmonious and healthy plant. Usually, Monstera up to half a meter in height can easily do without support, but as soon as you notice that the plant’s stem has begun to deviate from the vertical, it’s time to install a support.

Flower shops sell sticks wrapped in coconut fiber. In the first couples, they are suitable for young Monstera, but for adult specimens the layer of fiber is too thin and will not allow the aerial roots of the vine to grow into support. Often, a tropical guest is allowed to lean on pieces of furniture in the room, and fastenings are arranged for her directly on the wall (a wooden lattice or a strong twine along which she weaves). But then it becomes more difficult to care for the plant, and you can forget about transplanting.

Temperature

For successful cultivation of Monstera, moderately hot temperatures are suitable. At 20 – 25 °C the plant will grow quickly and look wonderful. At low temperatures, growth will slow down, and at 15 °C the flower will stop growing altogether. Monstera does not tolerate drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations - window frames must be sealed. In winter, it is worth protecting the plant from the hot air of heating devices. And in winter it is advisable to maintain the temperature within 18 – 20 °C, since at higher temperatures it grows quickly. In the summer, when the temperature rises above 26 °C, you should spray the vine and the surrounding air with clean, settled water. To maintain constant indoor comfortable temperature You can use a split system, just make sure that the air flow is not directed towards the plant.

Bathing Monstera

Don't forget to wear gloves

Monstera's large carved leaves must be kept clean. Wipe them regularly with a damp cloth or sponge to remove dust. This should be done for several reasons:

• dust closes the pores on the leaves and disrupts the gas exchange of the plant with the environment;
• dust forms a film on the surface of the leaves, which slows down the processes of photosynthesis;
• dust can accumulate substances harmful to the plant;
• dust can hide traces of insect pests.

Also, if you spray the dusty leaves, it really does look like a spotted monster. So wipe Monstera leaves regularly, preferably in the morning. For more beauty You can add shine to the foliage. Specialized stores have various products for polishing indoor plants. It is better to take it in aerosol packaging. But also folk remedies can be polished. To do this, use beer, a weak solution of vinegar, or add a little milk to the water for washing the leaves. Do not touch the young foliage, but gently, but carefully, without pressing, polish the adult leaves with a cloth with the product of your choice. Liana will shine with beauty and health.

Watering and humidity

Monstera loves abundant watering from spring to autumn, and moderate watering in winter. It is unacceptable to overdry the earthen lump. The plant also does not like overflowing and stagnation of water in the pan - the root system can rot. Water with settled warm water.

For Monstera, it is advisable to maintain indoor air humidity above average - this guest is of tropical origin. But moderate indoor humidity, at least 60%, will suit her. Only, the hotter the air in the room, the more often it is necessary to carry out water procedures for the vine.

Soil and pot

The soil for indoor Monstera should be quite loose, retains moisture well, and is nutritious. The acidity of the soil should be neutral. The composition of the soil should be approximately this: 3 parts of turf soil, 1 part of leaf soil, peat, humus and sand. You can buy ready-made mixtures for decorative deciduous (Aroid) indoor plants, to which a little perlite or coconut fiber is added.

The pot should be approximately the same in width and height

Choose a pot that is approximately the same in height and width. For a young plant, the pot should be medium. For an older plant, choose a wider pot, since aerial roots will grow from each node of the plant and go into the soil. Place a 2–3 cm layer of drainage material at the bottom. This can be expanded clay, gravel, perlite, or foam chips.

Feeding and fertilizers

From March to September, Monstera can be fed with complex mineral fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants once every 2 to 3 weeks. It is better to reduce the dosage by 2 times, relative to what is indicated in the instructions - if the vine is actively developing, you should not overfeed the plant unnecessarily. For adult plants, once a summer you can add humus to the top layer of soil or water them with mullein infusion. If you cannot stand the smell of these fertilizers, limit yourself to ready-made fertilizers. In winter, there is no need to feed the plant.

Transplanting Monstera

For the first four years, young Monsteras need to be transplanted annually into a new pot, 3–4 cm larger than the previous one. After five years, an adult vine is replanted less frequently, once every 3–4 years, but the top layer of soil must be replaced in those years when replanting is not carried out.

Replant the young plant like this. Monstera needs to be replanted using the plant transshipment method. Remove the flower from the old pot with a lump of earth, being careful not to spill it. Inspect the roots, remove damaged ones. Place the earthen ball in a new larger pot in the center. Place a support nearby. Pour in the new soil carefully, lightly compacting it. Water the vine, spray. Then take it to a permanent place.

Mature plants are more difficult to replant. The older the vine, the more land it requires. The pot has to be taken to grow - about one and a half to two buckets. It may be 6–10 cm larger than before. It is better to use ceramic pots - they are heavier and more stable, and a powerful plant will not tip over in them. The width of the pot should be sufficient so that Monstera's aerial roots can reach the soil. Do not forget to immediately install a strong support for the vine. Be sure to carry out the transplant with an assistant - you cannot cope with this alone.

Before transplanting, water the plant so that the soil is completely wet - then the roots will become elastic. Try to use a knife or spatula to separate the soil in the pot from the walls. If there are roots sticking out of the drainage holes, trim them. Now the hardest part is getting the huge plant out of the pot. You may have to climb onto a chair and drag the Monstera, holding onto its thick stem, while your assistant removes the pot from below. The new pot, drainage and soil must be prepared in advance.

Transfer the removed plant to a new pot, place it in the center and cover it with new nutrient soil so that there are no voids left in the pot. Don't forget to install the support. Water the soil. If the soil settles, add it. But not to the very top - otherwise, it will be difficult to change the top layer every year, and when watering, the water will overflow over the edges. Each time it becomes more and more difficult to transplant Monstera. Over time, you will only change the top layer of soil in the pot and add humus and other nutrients to it.

Caring for Monstera in winter

Monstera does not have a pronounced dormant period. She doesn't shed leaves. Only when the duration of daylight hours decreases and the temperature drops below 20 degrees. stops its growth. Monstera is capable of conducting winter period at a temperature of 16 - 18 °C with scanty watering and the absence of any fertilizing. It would be good to give the plant such a break for at least a month. As the temperature rises and daylight hours increase, even with the help of artificial lighting, Monstera will come to life again and begin to actively grow.

Pruning Monstera

The overgrown aerial roots of the vine do not always have a decorative appearance; you want to cut them off. But you shouldn’t do this - they serve to nourish and hydrate the plant. When spraying a vine, be sure to spray its aerial roots as well. Sometimes they are simply camouflaged, gathered in bunches, wrapped in moss or tied to a stem. Sometimes the roots themselves cling to the supports and grow into them.

Over time, an adult vine slows down its rate of development. To rejuvenate it and stimulate further development, in early spring, when the plant has not yet begun to grow, cut off the top of Monstera with two to three internodes, and treat the cut with crushed activated carbon. They are waiting for the lateral buds to awaken. And the top is used for propagation of Monstera by rooting it.

Flower arrangements featuring Monstera

Monstera gets along well with other vines. Philodendron and Scindapsus can grow in the same pot with it - you get an original ensemble. Their conditions of detention are similar. Next to the beautiful Monstera, such popular decorative foliage plants as ficus benjamina, palm-shaped dracaena marginata or yucca with long leaves look good. , or blooming next to Monstera will also be a good decoration for your interior.

Monstera Reproduction

There are several ways to propagate this tropical beauty.

Seeds

The seed method is rarely used. At home, Monsteras bloom very rarely, and it can be impossible to get your seeds. If you nevertheless become the owner of tropical vine seeds, then sow them in containers with a mixture of sand and peat in equal parts, germinate under film in a warm, bright place at a temperature of 20 - 25 ° C. Ventilate the greenhouse and, if necessary, moisten the substrate. Shoots will appear in three to four weeks. Seedlings first appear undissected, juvenile leaves; only in the fifth to eighth month will true adult leaves grow. After they appear, pick the seedlings. A well-developed root system in plants grown from seeds is formed only after two years. At this age they will have 3–5 juvenile leaves and 2–4 adult leaves. Now you can transplant young Monsteras into suitable pots and place them in a permanent place.

Using side shoots

Propagating Monstera using side shoots is the easiest and most reliable way. It is used all spring to summer. Side shoots grow at the base of the plant stem. They are carefully separated, the sections are dried and powdered with crushed activated carbon or charcoal. The shoot prepared in this way is planted in a pot with a drainage layer at the bottom and suitable soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and place it in a bright, warm place for rooting. If necessary, the substrate is moistened and the greenhouse is ventilated. You will know about successful rooting due to the appearance of new sprouts on the shoots.

Propagation by cuttings

Monstera can be propagated by cuttings with aerial roots. This method is used when the trunk of the vine is bald and it has lost its attractiveness. It's time for the monster to rejuvenate and get new plants at the same time.

To do this, select a shoot with aerial roots and at least one mature leaf. Without cutting the shoot, lower the aerial roots of the plant into a container of water to obtain normal small roots. When a sponge of roots sufficient to separate from the mother plant appears, the upper part of the stem below the roots is cut off and planted in a pot prepared for the young Monstera, burying all the roots entirely into the soil. Sometimes a new bush is planted in an old pot so that its leaves cover the exposed trunk of the mother plant.

Another method: the apical cutting with several leaves and a bud eye is cut from the mother plant and placed to root in a container with wet sand or a mixture of sand and peat, under a film. After about a month, when the roots grow, the cuttings are transplanted into pots with soil and cared for according to all the rules. At the same time, the mother plant continues to grow further. New shoots grow from dormant buds.

You can also take cuttings from the middle of the shoot. Make the top cut 2 cm above the bud, straight, and the bottom cut oblique. Lightly dry the sections and dust them with crushed coal. After this, the cuttings are planted in a substrate of peat and sand in equal parts. To maintain constant humidity, cover the container with a transparent bag. Ventilate and, if necessary, spray the substrate and cuttings. When planting, make sure that the node from which the aerial roots emerge is half immersed in the soil.

We do not recommend rooting cuttings in water, since the roots that grow in it will take a long time to adapt to the soil and will not be able to extract nutrients and moisture from it for some time. Until new roots grow, the plant will hurt.

Keep in mind that Monstera sap is poisonous. It can cause skin dermatitis and irritation of mucous membranes. Use gloves when working with the plant.

Diseases and pests Monstera

With proper care, Monstera is not affected by insect pests and rarely gets sick.

But sometimes sucking insects such as scale insects, spider mites, mealybugs and thrips still appear on the vine.

If the leaves begin to turn yellow, and their back side a cobweb appeared - Monstera was attacked by a spider mite. This means the room is too dry and hot. It is necessary to correct the situation - increase the humidity, spray the plant and the surrounding air more often. And we need to start fighting spider mites. Give the plant a bath if possible. Water will wash away most of the pests. Treat Monstera with acaricides - Fitoverm, Akarin or Actellik. Read the instructions. Repeat the treatment as many times as indicated in it and at the required interval. Otherwise, you will not be able to cope with the tick.

Thrips multiply quickly in hot, dry air. The leaves affected by them become grayish-brown on top. Insecticides are used again - Aktara, Iskra, Biotlin and others. And indoors, increase the humidity in any way possible.

Among the diseases, root rot can be distinguished. The problem arises due to excessive or improper watering of the plant. Perhaps your pot is too large, the soil in which does not dry out and turns sour. The root system suffers from a lack of oxygen and begins to rot. This happens more often in the autumn-winter period at reduced room temperatures. The plant loses its elasticity, the leaves droop, turn yellow and fall off. To save it, remove the flower from the pot, free the root system from the soil, and inspect the roots. Rotten and damaged - remove. Treat the cut areas with manganese solution, sprinkle them with crushed coal and plant the Monstera in another smaller pot with a large drainage layer.

With insufficient nutrition, Monstera leaves will fade, turn yellow and dry out. Feed the flower with fertilizer for ornamental foliage plants, but in slightly smaller doses than indicated in the instructions.

If Monstera started crying, i.e. Droplets of water began to flow from the leaves; perhaps the soil in the pot was too wet. Thus, the plant gets rid of excess moisture. This process is also characteristic of other plants from the tropics, it is called guttation. Keep this in mind and next time water only when the soil in the pot is half dry.

If only the lower leaves begin to turn yellow, and the new ones become darker and smaller, it means that you are not watering the plant enough. He lacks moisture.

If Monstera has stopped growing, its leaves have become whole and small, it means that it does not have enough light. Perhaps you blocked its light with other flowers or put the pot in the far corner. In order for dissected large leaves to appear again, the flower should be placed in a brighter place or provided with artificial lighting.

With age, the leaves on Monstera begin to fall off - this is natural. If the plant is young, and the leaves have turned brown and dried out, the cause may be too dry and hot air in the room.

If the aerial roots of Monstera have become thin and soft, then the plant lacks moisture. Adjust the frequency and amount of watering, wrap the aerial roots with damp moss, and increase the humidity in the room.

If the leaves of a flower first become light green, then turn yellow, become colorless and, finally, transparent, there may be two reasons: an excess of lighting or, which is much worse, the disease chlorosis. Chlorosis is treated with iron chelate, which is sold in stores.

If the Monstera leaves feel like brownish paper to the touch, perhaps the flower has become cramped in its pot; it urgently needs to be transplanted into a larger pot with a nutrient mixture.

Conclusion

We introduced you to a beautiful indoor plant, a vine, named Monstera. The rules for caring for her are not complicated. This process is fascinating and requires a creative approach to choosing a place for a powerful flower. If you want, you can certainly create in your apartment, with the help of an exotic pet, a cozy tropical corner with a clean and fresh air, in which you will be pleased to relax, admiring its unusual luxurious leaves.

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