Schematic representation of flowers:

Stitch stitch (back stitch):

The double stitch is the strongest of all types of hand stitches, it resembles a machine stitch.

Double stitching from right to left.

1. Make two stitches starting from the edge and then go back one stitch.

2. It is necessary to maintain the distance - as much as you “return” the needle back, the same stitch must be made forward.

3. Continue sewing until the end.

4. Secure the seam by stitching two stitches in place.

Overlock stitch:

An overlock stitch can be used to finish the edge (to prevent the fabric from crumbling) or as a decorative stitch if done with contrasting color threads.

1. Make a few stitches of topstitching.

2. Insert the needle into the fabric, retreating approximately 6 mm from the edge, the tip of the needle is directed in the direction opposite to the edge of the fabric.

3. Place the needle through the resulting loop and tighten to form a loop at the edge of the fabric.

Loop stitch:

This stitch works well on edges that are fraying and is used for making buttonholes or machine sewing. The stitch length can be longer or shorter.

2. Secure the thread with several stitches.

3. Insert the needle into the fabric near the edge. Wrap the end of the needle with thread.

4. Pull the thread so that the knot is at the edge of the fabric.

Blind seam:

This type of hand stitch is used for large pieces of fabric or for sewing together uneven edges.

1. The stitching is done from right to left.

2. Secure the edge of the fabric with a few stitches. Make a stitch diagonally from right to left, then, with the needle pointing to the left, make a small stitch on the second fabric.

3. Continue sewing, moving from one fabric to another.

4. Try not to pull the fabrics together too much.

Loop chain:

This is a decorative stitch that can be used to create straight or curved lines. The seam is made on the front side from right to left.

1. Make a knot at the end of the thread and insert the needle so that the knot is on the wrong side and the needle is on the front side.

2. Insert the needle into the same place and make a small stitch.

3. Place a loop of thread under the point of the needle and pull the needle through it. Do not pull the thread too tightly.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3, starting the next stitch inside the last one.

5. To finish the stitch, pull the needle and thread to the wrong side and make a knot, catching the last stitch.

Hemming (simple) seam:

This type of stitching is almost invisible from the front side of the product.

Work from right to left with one thread.

1.Make a knot in the thread and secure it on the wrong side.

2.Fold the edge of the product slightly and secure it by stitching over the edge.

3. Continue sewing, catching the folded edge and the base material as you do so.

Hem the edge so that the stitches are as small as possible, then they will be almost invisible.

4. Secure the thread with a knot on the wrong side.

Herringbone stitch (zigzag stitch):



This stitch finishes the edge of the hem and at the same time joins it to the fabric. It is used on heavy fabrics that are too thick to double hem.

1. The seam is made from left to right.

2. Secure the thread with a few stitches in place along the edge of the hem.

3. Make a long diagonal stitch from left to right across the raw edge and the base fabric, then go back and make a stitch approximately 6mm long across the base fabric.

5. Move the needle to the right and make another diagonal stitch, guiding the thread from left to right, so as to catch the hem.

6. All stitches should be approximately the same size.

Step seam:



A stepped seam or a blind hem stitch is a way of joining two pieces of variegated fabric when the seam runs exactly according to the pattern.

1. On one piece of fabric, fold in the seam allowance and lay the fold of the fabric over the second piece, exactly where the seam will be located. The drawing must match exactly.

2. The seam is made on the right side of the fabric from right to left.

3. Fasten the thread, insert the needle into the second piece of material, then pass the needle and thread through the folded section, the stitch itself will be positioned vertically. Do not tighten the thread too much.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3.

5. To finish the seam, bring the needle to the wrong side and secure it to the stitch.

6. Insert the needle exactly opposite where the stitch will be to form a buttonhole stitch. Do not tighten the thread too much.

Sewing the lining:



1. Lay the fabric wrong side up on a flat surface.

2. Place the lining face up.

3. Pin both fabrics together in the center.

4. Make small stitches, grabbing 1-2 threads of the fabric, and pulling the thread, grab 1-2 threads of the second piece of fabric.

5. Make small stitches to form a stitch with vertical stitches.

6. Secure with a knot on the wrong side.

Lockstitch:


This stitch is used to attach the lining and second layer of fabric to fabric or curtains, bedspreads and pelmets where there are a certain number of layers of fabric. Typically the stitch height is half the height on one fabric and half the height on the other.

1. Place the lining on the wrong side of the material and secure it.

2. Make equal diagonal stitches across the edge. Do not pull the thread too tight.

3. Insert the needle into the fabric approximately 5mm to the right of the previous stitch, forming a loop.

4. Use a needle to pin both pieces of fabric.

5. Make a small stitch by catching 1-2 threads of the main material and pull the needle through the formed loop.

4. Make a seam, catching only a few threads on the right side of the main material, and finally secure the thread with a knot from the wrong side.

Seam over edge:

A hand seam over the edge is a method of processing the edges of loose, dense material. The stitch length is adjusted depending on the flow of the fabric.

Start with a few stitches in place.

1. Make diagonal stitches across the edge, making sure they are evenly spaced and about the same height. Do not pull the thread too tightly.

Running stitch:

This seam is used to baste the details of the product.

1. Secure the thread with a few stitches in place, making small stitches by sticking the needle into the fabric from right to left. Try to make the stitches and spacing between them the same.

Blind seam:


The seam is used to hem a double hem.

1. The seam goes from right to left, the stitches themselves are located inside the fold.

2. The needle moves mainly inside the folded edge, and the stitches themselves only catch a few threads of the hem and the warp material.

3. Insert the needle into the hem, make a stitch, bring it to the surface and make a stitch.

Spot stitch:

These tiny, almost invisible stitches are used to maintain the shape of the pleats.

1. The stitches themselves are located inside the folds, and only small lines are visible on the surface.

2. The needle is inserted into the thickness of the fold (there should be a knot at the end of the thread). Bring the needle out to the point where you want to secure the fold.

Basting stitch (Basting):


Hand stitch, which is used to give the fabric the desired position, one that must be maintained after sewing. Similar to running a running stitch, but the stitches are slightly longer.

1. The work is done with one or two threads with a knot at the end. The seam is made by alternately inserting the needle into the front and back sides.

2. To finish the seam, sew 1 stitch in place.

3. To remove the basting, simply cut the knot and pull the thread.

Many people master basic stitches self made even in childhood, in labor lessons or helping parents in everyday life. Knowing the technique of stitching solves small problems for which it is not suitable sewing machine. Sew, hem, mend, sew on a button and even create new outfit- experienced housewives know that it is difficult to do without hand stitches. This is where the mastery of sewing skills begins. However, the variety of stitches can seem daunting. Let's look at the types, names and features of the main handmade seams.

What types of stitches are there?

General classification - ordinary and decorative. The former have long been used for sewing new clothes, performing a directly practical function. The second, more complex ones, were used to trim and decorate festive outfits. Let's focus on 7 simple seams, knowledge of which will make the life of every housewife easier.

1. “Forward with a needle,” or sweeping.

The most primitive stitch that even a middle-aged child can easily master. school age. It is necessary when you need to quickly, in a hurry, fasten several pieces of fabric together. For example, for the first fitting of a product, creating assemblies and other decor. Straight stitches are placed from right to left. The length varies from 2 mm to several cm and depends on the goals of the seamstress. The stitches are visible on both the front and back sides.

Practical is the same as basting, but is performed on one layer of fabric. It is used for “basting”, that is, fixing the middle of the product or other nuances. Some housewives use an interlining seam to mark out stains before washing. It is important that the needles are thin and do not leave marks on the fabric or damage it. The distance between the stitches and their length are approximately the same (2-3 mm).

3. “Silk”, or copy seam.

Stitches require soft, easy-to-work double threads. They allow you to easily transfer the lines of pockets, darts and other elements that require precision. Paired cut parts are folded next to each other. In this case, the front side should be inside. Next, short running stitches are sewn, but the thread is not tightened, but connected into loops 1-1.5 cm high. At the end, the identical parts are moved apart and the loops are cut. Nowadays, snares are becoming an increasingly outdated method of sewing.

4. Stitch seam.

Convenient for joining materials of different thicknesses or textures. It comes in several variations: flat-ironed, flat-ironed, on the edge. The type depends on how to iron the product after sewing. First, the parts are connected with their front sides or along contour lines. Such a seam is considered strong enough and reliable for constant wear. It requires some experience and serves as an alternative to machine sewing.

5. Marking seam.

The length of the spaces between the stitches distinguishes this seam from a ground seam. The needle is inserted halfway between the entry and exit of the previous stitch. A strong seam is needed to sew the armhole lining to the sleeve set-in seams. The length of the stitches is from 1.5 to 2 cm. In another way, such a seam is called “with a needle.”

6. Cross stitch, or “goat”.

More like a finishing or even decorative seam. Although it also has a direct purpose - fixing the hem and edge of the sleeves. The direction of embroidery is from bottom to top. This means that the stitches are made independently. Looks very cute, great for children's and women's clothing, but requires some patience. The stitches are carefully placed crosswise, forming a symmetrical pattern.

The overlock stitch has several varieties. You can’t do without it if you need to beautifully finish the edge of a garment or other textile product. Stitches are made from left to right, bringing the needle towards you. A loop stitch will allow you to create both straight and curved lines and hold together parts of different textures.

What is important to consider when working on stitches?

The easiest way to master hand stitches is by embroidering with floss threads on a special fabric. This best option for training beginners. If you want to hone your crafting skills, you can start by marking your stitches with a water-soluble marker. Then it will be much easier to make an even, beautiful and smooth seam. Do not forget that the aesthetics of the finished product depends on the equal length of the stitches and the appropriate distance between them.

Special attention should be paid to working with. This popular material tends to shrink after washing. Therefore, before cutting, it is recommended to wash the fabric in advance and take this feature into account when leaving allowances. Dozens of patterns and samples of hand stitches for knitted and other fabrics are available in special books and on the Internet. Mastering sewing skills depends only on your desire and perseverance. Here, as in many other activities, it is important to systematically hone your skills.

1. Seam “forward needle”, or running stitch

With this seam you can baste two or more cut pieces, baste pockets, braids and other details, and also make markings.
The stitches are placed from right to left, they are visible from both the front and back sides of the product (see Fig. 1).


The length of the stitch depends on the desired strength of the seam. Using small stitches of the “forward needle” seam, you can gather or fit the cut details.

2. Running bias stitch

It is used in cases where the fastened layers of fabric should not move either longitudinally or transversely.
The seam is directed from top to bottom or bottom to top. The needle exit point is on the left, next to the needle entry point into the tissue (see Fig. 2).

Sewing short stitches with a small space between them firmly holds layers of fabric, such as a lapel collar, together. When only two layers are basted (fabric with volumetric interlining or lining fabric), the stitches can be longer and the spacing greater.

3. Hand-stitched seam

The strongest of the hand stitches, which is used for making very short seams, for repairing machine seams, in cases where there is no point in using a sewing machine.
Initially insert the needle into the tissue and withdraw it after 5 mm, then insert the needle again, stepping back from the needle withdrawal point approximately 3 mm and withdraw the needle at a distance of approx. 6 mm (= double stitch length). Now insert the needle into the point where the needle first comes out and bring it out again at a distance equal to twice the length of the stitch, continue in the same way from right to left (see Fig. 3).

4. Blind seam

Almost invisible and used when hemming linings, as well as for sewing sections of the main fabric folded on the wrong side, or for mending a broken seam that is not accessible for stitching on the sewing machine from the wrong side.
The seam is made from right to left (see Fig. 4).

5. Cross-shaped goat seam

In essence, this is a finishing seam. The goat stitch is used to hem the hem allowance for items made from elastic fabrics.
The seam is made from left to right with small stitches slanted up/down.
When hemming the hem allowance, make sure that the stitches do not go to the right side of the fabric, that is, the stitch on the fabric should only capture 1-2 threads of the fabric (see Fig. 5).

In the photo: a painting by Eugene de Blaas, an Italian artist of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Drawings: burdastyle.
Material prepared by Elena Karpova

Seams made by machine

They are also, in turn, divided into several subcategories. Depending on the purpose, there are the following machine seams:

  • connecting - as the main types of connections are used directly to assemble parts into a single product. This category includes stitching, sewing, overlay, adjustment, double seams and butt joints;
  • edge - this group is performed in the process of processing the lower and side cuts of parts. Here the hem and edging seams are distinguished;
  • decorative - used for artistic design of a product.

There are a large number of different options, but we will look at the basic machine seams that are most widely used.

Stitch seam

This is the simplest type, it is performed in the following sequence:

  1. The parts must be joined by aligning the right side of the fabric, fastened using pins or basting along a line that was previously marked with chalk. Typically, the starting width of the seam should be limited to 5-20 mm.
  2. We perform a straight stitch along the connection line with the obligatory fastening of the thread at the beginning and end of the seam. This is ensured by running a 1 cm long stitch in opposite directions.
  3. The sections of the assembled parts must be swept. This can be done in two ways, which depend on the further application of the seam. The first method is ironing, when two sections are overcast separately and ironed in the same order. The second option is called ironing. With this method, the edges are finished with an overlock stitch or an overlock stitch together.
  4. After processing the sections, remove the basting thread and heat treat the seam with an iron. Depending on how the basting was done, we iron the sections separately or together.

Overlay seam

It can be performed using two technologies, when the cut is open or closed.

  • Open cut. This type of seam can also be obtained in two ways. In the first one, one part is combined with another not by cuts, but by smell, which should be 15-20 mm. Next, the stitching is done on the machine parallel to the edge. Another technique involves placing a part with a curved and ironed edge on top of a second one, and the cuts are aligned. The stitching should be parallel to the folded edge. At the end of the seam using this method, a folded joint is obtained on the front side, and two unprocessed cuts on the back side.
  • Closed cut. We join the two parts with the front side, retreating the edges at a distance of 5-10 mm. We lay the first line along the wrong side, and the distance from the edge should not exceed 5 mm. We bend the part along the completed line to the front side. The fold must be made in such a way that the cut overlaps the top stitching. Then we make a second seam with an indent parallel to the edge.

Making a backstitch

This type has found its application in the process of creating bed linen. The sewing seam is performed using the following technology:

  1. We combine two parts facing each other. In this case, the lower cut should protrude by the size of the finished seam, the size of the protrusion should be within 8-9 mm.
  2. We make a bend, using the edge of the lower part to grab the cut edge from the upper part.
  3. We make the first line, it should be located at a distance of 1-2 mm from the curved edge.
  4. To get a closed seam, unfold the parts and lay them out on the front side.
  5. By turning the connected part, we close the smaller cut and perform the second line, departing from the edge no more than 2 mm.

Double or French seam

It is performed as a continuation of the stitch seam in the following order:

  1. In order to make a double seam, it is necessary to lay out the parts not on the front side, but on the wrong side, both cuts must be aligned in one line.
  2. We sew the edges along the front side with an indentation of 3-4 mm.
  3. We smooth the cuts.
  4. We turn the parts inside out, matching the right sides.
  5. We perform the second line, it should be located at a distance of approximately 5-7 mm from the resulting fold, and the internal sections should be completely covered by the top seam.
  6. Iron the double seam.

Adjustment stitch

The layout of the parts in this case is carried out with the front sides inward, and the sections should be connected in one line.

  • We make a regular stitch seam parallel to the cut line.
  • After joining, the upper part is bent and ironed.
  • Now you need to sew a line that will run along the front side. It will connect three layers of material at the same time - the bottom piece and both seam allowances. If the material is thick enough, then you can shift the bottom edge by half a centimeter. This technique will lead to the fact that when stitching, the middle layer of material will overlap and end up inside.
  • Basically, an adjustment seam is used to join lightweight materials that allow you to bend and iron seam allowances, thereby preventing the fabric from fraying.

Hem

This type of connection is used to decorate the lower edges of products. It can be done in three ways:

  • With a closed cut. To do this, you need to fold the bottom to the wrong side twice. The first bend is made with a size of 5 mm. The second turn depends on the type of fabric and can vary from 5 to 10 mm. The stitching is laid along the edge of the fold.
  • With an open cut. To obtain such a seam, the overlap is folded to the wrong side and a stitch is made with an indentation of 2 mm from the edge of the resulting fold. To perform this stitch, you can use either a straight or zigzag shape.
  • Narrow seam. To perform it, a fold of 3 mm is made on the wrong side, which is basted and stitched with an indentation of 1.5-2 mm from the fold. Excess fabric is cut off almost at the very edge. If we are talking about a fabric such as knitwear, then the process can be stopped at this point. Such knitted seam It is performed on special machines; on the front side it will have the shape of a regular stitch, and on the back side it will look like an overlock stitch. For regular fabric a second bend is made at a distance of 2-3 mm and another line is applied.

Edge stitch

To perform it, you will need special strips called facings. They are usually placed in the direction of the thread of the main parts. The shape of the sewn facing should be the same on both the front and back sides.

Edging sewing stitches may have different designs:

  • With a closed cut. The seam can be made in two different ways:

We fold the part and the facing tape facing each other and align the cuts. Then basting is done. The seam is made and the basting is removed. The allowances are ironed and cut to size 3-5 mm. The cut edges are turned around with a facing, the edge is folded and stitched.

For the second option, the facing tape is folded in half with the wrong side inward. Then it is applied to the front side of the part with the cuts aligned and stitched. The sections of the parts are wrapped in a strip, and the stitching is applied almost along the very fold of the facing.

  • With an open cut. This treatment is performed with the first version of the closed cut edge stitch. Only in this case, the edge with which the cuts are wrapped is not tucked.

Hand stitches

In most cases, you can make seams by machine, but doing it by hand is also important. There are connections that can only be made manually, for example, a running or copy seam. All connections of this kind can be divided into four categories according to technology. So, let’s find out what types of hand stitches exist:

  • Seam by needle. Using this technology, a line or stitch stitch, as well as a marking seam, is sewn.
  • Forward with a needle. This includes the implementation of such types as spacer, copying, and running connections.
  • Hem. This method makes a hidden or hemmed connection.
  • Regional. This category includes overcast and buttonhole seams.

Let's look at the most common types of hand sewing.

Interlining seam

It is performed using a simple “needle forward” technology, which is ordinary stitches. The needle is inserted at a distance of 2-4 threads and carried forward until the end of the seam. The sewing direction is from right to left, and there should be even thread tension. Spacer seams are used on the fabric when assembling product parts. They also indicate the middle of the parts.

Running stitch

At its core, this is a temporary connection that is deleted after the main one is completed. machine seam. For such work, it is advisable to choose thin threads so that after their removal there are no holes left in the fabric. An elastic thread is ideal for this work. The length of the basting can vary between 7-25 cm, it depends on the parts being assembled. The stitch size should not exceed 10 mm. This value depends on the thickness of the material being stitched.

Copy seam

The purpose of these seams is to symmetrically transfer the required dimensions and lines to paired parts. Marking lines and contour marks are marked with a copy seam. This seam is otherwise called a snare. It is a type of gasket connection. The direction of the thread when laying is from right to left. The seam is made with a double thread, which should be soft, and its length should not exceed 90 cm. As for the stitches, their size should not exceed 5 mm, the same requirement applies to the distance between them. The thread should not be tightened, but remain in the form of a loop up to 15 mm. After finishing the work, it is necessary to move the parts apart and cut the threads between them, for this purpose the loops were left. As a result, symmetrical markings are obtained on both parts, and the patterns will have the same appearance.

Stitching and marking seams

This hand stitching is similar in shape to a regular machine stitch. Work begins using the same technology as the running stitch. After completing the first stitch, the needle pierces the fabric and the thread is brought out to the right side, as for the next step. But now the sewing direction changes in the opposite direction, that is, backwards, and the needle is inserted into the hole created by the end of the first stitch. On the right side of the fabric, the seam should look like a regular seam-stitch; to do this, you need to run it along one line, keeping the stitches the same size. On the reverse side, the stitches partially overlap. If you don't have sewing machine, you can make such seams by hand. They will become indispensable in repairing any item that has a machine seam torn.

The marking seam is created using the same technology, the only difference is that the stitches are made at a distance, not close to each other. This size should be half a stitch.

Hemming seams

They are used to process the bottom edge of the product. For such work it is necessary to first prepare the edge. To do this:

  • the entire allowance is folded in and basted at a distance of 5-10 mm from the resulting fold;
  • the cut is folded a second time at the same distance and a second basting is performed with an indentation of 2-3 mm;
  • the resulting lapel is ironed.

Now you can proceed directly to making the hemming seam. The edge of the fold is pierced with a needle and the thread is pulled through, now several threads of the main fabric are captured. Then the fold is pierced again, then the process is repeated until the end of the seam. Typically, such stitches are applied at a slight angle; there should be 3 stitches per 1 cm of seam.

Blind hem stitch

In the connection discussed above, the connection stitches are laid over the fold, as a result they will be visible from the inside. If you perform the hemming operation using a different technology, you will get a hidden seam.

The preparation of the tucked layer occurs in the same sequence as with a regular hemming seam. Then the order of execution changes:

  • the folded hem allowance is turned to the right side, leaving a section of up to 3 mm;
  • the thread is secured in the folded allowance;
  • the needle is inserted under the fold of the edge, which is hemmed (you need to grab about two or three threads of the main fabric);
  • The direction of work is from right to left, and the thread should not be too tight. The number of stitches that a blind seam will contain per 1 cm should be two or three pieces.

Overlock seams

This treatment is performed in order to prevent fraying and fraying of the edges of the product. The types of seams of this type are as follows:

  • An oblique overlock stitch is made by grasping the edge, and the needle movement should be from bottom to top. The direction of work is from right to left, while the stitch density should be the same as for hemming seams.
  • Another type is the cross stitch. At first, the work is carried out in one direction, as with the oblique one, having reached the end of the seam, the direction changes in the strictly opposite direction, and the stitches are placed crosswise over the already sewn ones. In this case, the work does not rotate, but remains in the same position. Edge processing can be done using loops.

Loop seams

Basically, this type of edge processing is used if the fabric has increased flowability. It can also be used to decorate the edges of fabric appliqués. A buttonhole stitch is very similar in appearance to a machine overlock stitch. The sequence of its execution is as follows:

  1. We fasten the thread to the edge of the cut; the fastening should be quite reliable.
  2. We pierce the fabric in the right place with a needle away from us.
  3. Without removing the needle from the fabric, we pass the thread through the loop and pull it out of the fabric.
  4. We tighten the resulting loop, the upper part should lie on the cut, thereby protecting it from falling apart.
  5. We perform the second stitch, the distance from the puncture site to the edge should be within 4-6 mm, and no more than 3 stitches should be placed per 1 cm of fabric. You can wrap the thread around the needle when it is in the fabric. Or you need to stretch it to the thread.

In this sequence, a loop stitch is made to the end of the cut. The direction of work is from left to right. This type of seam is often used for knitted fabrics. It is better to use an elastic thread in your work. How to make a beautiful and even knitted seam? The answer is simple: try to maintain the same size of punctures.

Types of stitches for embroidery

They can be classified as separate category, because although they are manual, some are performed using a different technology. For embroidery, the interfacing, buttonhole and line stitches discussed above are used. There are other types:

  • stalked;
  • tambour;
  • herringbone;
  • goat.

All of them belong to the simplest contour seams and serve as an auxiliary element. More complex embroidery stitches are two separate directions, in the process of which some auxiliary elements are used.

Stem stitch embroidery

Such a seam is used as a separate element for the design of plant patterns, flowers, buds, stems, and leaves. The stem stitch is also used for edging finished embroidery parts as a finishing element. Very often, capital letters are embroidered using this technique.

This seam is made as follows:

  • The thread is secured from the left edge and brought to the front side.
  • Step 3 mm and stick the needle in to form the first stitch. During embroidering, the movement is from left to right. To obtain the correct seam, the needle point should be directed to the left.
  • The needle is brought out in the middle of the future stitch. Make sure that the needle does not split the thread in the loop.
  • Pull the thread to align the stitch.
  • Using the same technology, we perform the next step, and so on until the end of the seam length.

If the drawing requires a curved line, we tilt the stitches so that the direction falls on the outer line. When filling a certain contour, the stem seam must be started from the same side.

Chain stitch

It consists of a continuous series of loops that come out of one another and line up. The thread is fixed to the canvas, and the work begins on the front side. The thread is placed in the loop from left to right. The needle pierces the fabric in the place from which the thread came out after fastening, and is withdrawn at the distance that should be the size of the loop. The needle comes out in the middle of the laid loop, and the thread should be under the needle. This embroidery element is used in complex patterns to form stripes or to sew outlines.

Cross stitch

Embroidery stitches of this type are very popular. With their help, you can create entire masterpieces in the form of paintings. For such embroidery, a special material is used - canvas; it has a pronounced cellular structure, which ensures equally even crosses. Let's consider the process of creating this seam:

  1. Fasten the thread and perform an oblique stitch from bottom to top.
  2. We pierce the fabric from the wrong side at the level of the lower end of the first stitch and bring the thread to the front side, the direction is from left to right.
  3. We perform the next oblique stitch and repeat this sequence until the required number of crosses. As a result, the first half of the pattern is completed.
  4. On the last cross we fasten the thread in the lower left corner and change the direction of embroidery in the opposite direction.
  5. We make the next oblique stitch from the bottom right point to the top left point, overlapping the previous stitch made in the other direction.
  6. We bring the needle down to the front side and repeat the process. The cross stitch should end in the place where it started.

Satin embroidery

The term “stitch” means making a pattern with very even stitches, directed in a straight line or at an angle. The types of seams of this pattern are quite varied. So, they can be simple, colored, linen, monochrome, etc. Regardless of what design is chosen for embroidery, you need to start with the fact that it must be transferred to the fabric using carbon paper. The outline of the pattern is sewn with stitches made with the needle forward. Then you can start filling out the pattern. The seam is made using large stitches between the finished contours. This filling is called flooring. The covering stitches should overlap the contour lines. To get a sufficiently embossed pattern, it is necessary to apply stitches with greater density. To make the pattern you are making smooth and beautiful, do not tighten the fabric with stitches while making the pattern.

We will devote the third sewing lesson to hand stitches.

The parts of the product are fastened together using seams made in one or more lines - a series of repeating uniform stitches.

Stitches can also serve decorative purposes - they are often used in decoration.

They should be even, with equal distances between stitches on both the front side and the back, with threads evenly tightened.

Let's look at the main types of hand stitches.

Reminds me of machine stitching.

It is used to permanently connect two parts in places where machine execution is difficult, or in cases where it is necessary to obtain a seam of increased extensibility.

There is no space between stitches. Sew from top to bottom. The distance between the entrance and exit of the needle is 0.1-0.7 cm.

The injection is made at the exit site of the previous stitch.

Marking seam(a seam behind a needle) is performed in the same way as a stitched one, but with a distance between the stitches.

The needle prick is made halfway between the entry and exit of the previous stitch.

Overlock Stitch

Overlock stitch protects cut parts from falling off.

There are several types.


Slant overlock stitch they do it over the edge.

The needle is inserted from the bottom up, the stitch is laid with the frame to the left.

Cross overlock stitch performed in the same way as an oblique, only in two directions.

The thread is not torn off and the product is not turned.

Looped process sections in loose tissues.

The needle is inserted from top to bottom, the thread of the previous stitch lies under the needle. The line is laid from left to right.

The seam density is 2-3 stitches 0.4-0.6 cm long per 1 cm of fabric.

Hemming seams used for hemming the edge of a product detail (bottom of a sleeve, bottom of a skirt).

The cut is pre-prepared for filing.

First, fold the entire hem allowance and baste it at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from the fold using a running stitch.

Then the cut is folded 0.5-1 cm and basted at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the second fold.

The folded cut is ironed.

There are hemming seamsseveral types.

Simple(open).

With the needle coming out of the fold, grab 2-3 threads of the main part, make an injection under the fold and push the needle.

The seam density is 2-3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric.

Blind seam.

The entire basted hem allowance is folded over to the right side, leaving 0.2-0.3 cm of the folded cut on the wrong side.

The thread is secured in the hem allowance, the needle is inserted under the fold of the edge to be hemmed and when exiting, 2-3 threads of the main part are picked up.

The line is laid from right to left. The thread is not pulled tight. The seam density is 2-3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric.

Curly (cross-shaped) seam.

This seam is used when hemming the bottom of a product made of dense, non-flowing fabrics and as a finishing seam.

Sew from left to right from bottom to top. The cut is open, the fabric is folded only to allowance.

The first injection is made into the main fabric near the cut, 2-3 threads are picked up on the needle so as not to pierce on the front side, the second injection is behind the hem allowance.

Seam density is 2-3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric, stitch length is 0.4-0.7 cm.

Finishing Seams

Finishing seams used to decorate children's and women's clothing.

The most common of them are loop, tambour, herringbone, cross, goat-cross, hemstitch, “nun” (triangle).
The nun secures folds, pockets, stitches, and cuts.

The outline of an equilateral triangle is drawn with a basting line.

The first stitch is made from one corner at the base of the triangle to its vertex, the second - from the vertex to the third corner, the next - from the third corner to the first near the starting point of the seam, etc.

The thread is laid tightly and with the same tension.

This fills the entire triangle.

For strength, a piece of lining fabric is sewn from the inside out.

a - looped,

b - tambour,

c - herringbone,

g - cross,

d - goat-cross,

e - hemstitch,